Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Thank you.
Finding and preparing a new to me AMF
- Thread starter Little Dog
- Start date
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Interesting bag of results today. Evidence is mounting that this engine is indeed a 90k mile engine. But fitted with A2 components that have covered mega miles.
The tandem pump is dated 1999. It has rubber seals rather than the the metal crush type. It appears to have held out without leaking but my Bosch is going on
The engine cover appears to have never been off. It is dated late 2002 and is the non sound deadening variety. My revised cover will go on.
The EGR is a mess and a testimony to bad practice. Held on with just two screws. Anti shudder actuator broken. No gasket to EGR pipe. EGR pipe blocked. Interesting approach the EGR delete. I have a new EGR, a clear EGR pipe and a spare anti shudder actuator. Ill put good items on the engine and build a spare.
The injector harness appears original, again suggesting low milage. But it is brittle due to age and broke up getting it out. I have a replacement low milage one about 12 months old.
Cam looks good with minimal wear, another tick for low milage. OK that is the injector rocker shaft but all looks good up top.
Finally the injectors, slight signs of wear but nothing like my AMF on twice the milage. Another tick for low milage.
It does indeed appear this is a low miles engine. I am absolutely confident this engine would have breathed well and injected correctly. If I had put it straight in the car it would have run well.
Just one thing worrying me (please understand before you click on this link that my oservations in no way reflect on the seller who tested the engine before removing it for sale) https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/oil-contaminated-glow-plug.54019/
Today, weather permitting, I will tackle the rear (RH side) of the engine. Everything is comming off because I have easy access and a bag of new nuts and studs now will make maintenence easier in the future.
The tandem pump is dated 1999. It has rubber seals rather than the the metal crush type. It appears to have held out without leaking but my Bosch is going on
The engine cover appears to have never been off. It is dated late 2002 and is the non sound deadening variety. My revised cover will go on.
The EGR is a mess and a testimony to bad practice. Held on with just two screws. Anti shudder actuator broken. No gasket to EGR pipe. EGR pipe blocked. Interesting approach the EGR delete. I have a new EGR, a clear EGR pipe and a spare anti shudder actuator. Ill put good items on the engine and build a spare.
The injector harness appears original, again suggesting low milage. But it is brittle due to age and broke up getting it out. I have a replacement low milage one about 12 months old.
Cam looks good with minimal wear, another tick for low milage. OK that is the injector rocker shaft but all looks good up top.
Finally the injectors, slight signs of wear but nothing like my AMF on twice the milage. Another tick for low milage.
It does indeed appear this is a low miles engine. I am absolutely confident this engine would have breathed well and injected correctly. If I had put it straight in the car it would have run well.
Just one thing worrying me (please understand before you click on this link that my oservations in no way reflect on the seller who tested the engine before removing it for sale) https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/oil-contaminated-glow-plug.54019/
Today, weather permitting, I will tackle the rear (RH side) of the engine. Everything is comming off because I have easy access and a bag of new nuts and studs now will make maintenence easier in the future.
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Little Dog
A2OC Donor
I'm tidying up after yesterday and decided to take all of the pipes off. I have big expectations for the turbo because there is no oil in the induction pipes and inlet mainifold. Take a look at this:
The oil from the turbo is blown all over the back of the engine along with the turbo boost. It ran before, I'm now expecting it to fly when it goes in Little Dog plumbed correctly.
The oil from the turbo is blown all over the back of the engine along with the turbo boost. It ran before, I'm now expecting it to fly when it goes in Little Dog plumbed correctly.
CrispyEdd
Member
This pipe is one for the breakers to collect up a few of, seen this a few times now those bolts are like 9nm almost hand tight, they get abused and the pipe get manhandled due to location and often see crakcs and damage here..ATL pipe is different to the AMF one too.
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Agreed, very tricky to fit. I have a good one on the car that only I have worked on.
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Can't do a full update, not had access to the PC, however I nearly have a bare engine.
A bit of progress, the turbo that I had big expectations for due to no oil in the induction was diminished. Simply because there was no oil because there was no air boost. My hope has been revitalised.
The turbo appears quite good, very smooth to turn; after I poured fresh oil in it. I is dated 2002 so it is the same age as the engine, probably a circa 100k mile turbo. Problems so far have been two exhaust studs replaced with screws, I pulled out a third stud with a seized nut. With three gone I extracted the fourth, it is getting new ones. I thought some threads were stripped but they all chased up nicely.
The waste gate pivot was seized, probably due to not being needed because of that massive hole in the boost feed pipe. It is freed off and working fine. Note the second O ring on the turbo, first in the pipe, some people just don't get mechanical failure.
Next task, look up the waste gate pressure and check the actuator is working correctly.
So what could go wrong? The turbo outlet had a large amount of grit in it.
When I checked it with a magnet it is largely ferrous. Where it has came from I can't imagine as the turbo appears complete and good..
A bit of progress, the turbo that I had big expectations for due to no oil in the induction was diminished. Simply because there was no oil because there was no air boost. My hope has been revitalised.
The turbo appears quite good, very smooth to turn; after I poured fresh oil in it. I is dated 2002 so it is the same age as the engine, probably a circa 100k mile turbo. Problems so far have been two exhaust studs replaced with screws, I pulled out a third stud with a seized nut. With three gone I extracted the fourth, it is getting new ones. I thought some threads were stripped but they all chased up nicely.
The waste gate pivot was seized, probably due to not being needed because of that massive hole in the boost feed pipe. It is freed off and working fine. Note the second O ring on the turbo, first in the pipe, some people just don't get mechanical failure.
Next task, look up the waste gate pressure and check the actuator is working correctly.
So what could go wrong? The turbo outlet had a large amount of grit in it.
When I checked it with a magnet it is largely ferrous. Where it has came from I can't imagine as the turbo appears complete and good..
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Little Dog
A2OC Donor
I think it is worth explaining what I'm looking to achieve here. I'm getting good advice for somebody who wants to get an engine in their car and get it moving. Also my level of scrutiny appears to have rattled some members. Sorry, that was completely unintended and I have nothing but complements for the thoroughness and honesty of those involved in supplying the engine.
I'm looking to create an engine like this for the A2 over the winter:
It is a VAG PB taken back to factory spec from top to bottom, the only thing I decided not to do is paint the block. I'm looking to create the same standard for the A2. Not because I need to but because I enjoy doing this type of thing. So while I'm digging around in the minutiae, you can now understand why.
I'm looking to create an engine like this for the A2 over the winter:
It is a VAG PB taken back to factory spec from top to bottom, the only thing I decided not to do is paint the block. I'm looking to create the same standard for the A2. Not because I need to but because I enjoy doing this type of thing. So while I'm digging around in the minutiae, you can now understand why.
PlasticMac
Admin Team
So, why are you not painting it, seems contrary to your philosophy, if that's the right word. If philosophy is the right word, mine is the same, but different
Mac.
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Ah because the block never left the engine bay. Only the block, crank and pistons never came out. No slap, good compression etc. working remotely, no power.So, why are you not painting it, seems contrary to your philosophy, if that's the right word. If philosophy is the right word, mine is the same, but different
Mac.
Everything else was brought home and worked on.
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Mk2 Golf GTi
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
I stopped reporting progress while I investigated the oil on the glow plugs. Everything worked out fine with the head so to bring you up to date with the engine, it is stripped bare and I've been cleaning the gunk off:
Head looks good, but look at the cam shell bearings. All worn through at least one level of plating / coating. From what I have found reported elsewhere this is not untypical of a PB engine on circa 100k miles. The injectors are very heavy on the cam bearings. I have a set.
Engine stand arriving tomorrow. Will finally get the engine out of the back of the car.
Discovered the engine number is etched on the block. I was planning on this engine taking on the identity of my original engine but that is not possible. Does the mean a V5 update?
Head looks good, but look at the cam shell bearings. All worn through at least one level of plating / coating. From what I have found reported elsewhere this is not untypical of a PB engine on circa 100k miles. The injectors are very heavy on the cam bearings. I have a set.
Engine stand arriving tomorrow. Will finally get the engine out of the back of the car.
Discovered the engine number is etched on the block. I was planning on this engine taking on the identity of my original engine but that is not possible. Does the mean a V5 update?
Attachments
CrispyEdd
Member
Clear to see the wear! Can you post part numbers if possible so when people look back on this they can order bits and bobs? Wierd design where the shap of the walls go around the holes above the volves to the sides, a wiggle on the left and centre on left side then right side for port 3 on right. how odd.
A2Steve
A2OC Donor
That does look like a lot of wear on the cam shell bearings doesn't it. I wonder if this is conducive to a lot of short journeys being done by the engine. If we take it to have 90 odd thousand as believed it has then that's a relatively lo mileage for a TDI so short journeys may fit that.
PS i'm convinced you've only stripped it down to save having to take lift it out of the car
PS i'm convinced you've only stripped it down to save having to take lift it out of the car
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
I bought Glycol N147/5 STD months ago. As I’ve not fitted them please check before buying.
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
I don’t know @A2Steve if short journeys contribute. I’ve resisted replying hoping somebody who knows would reply. RAB would know but I think he left us. I’m not surprised by what I’ve found. Not many owners go there so it doesn’t get seen too often.That does look like a lot of wear on the cam shell bearings doesn't it. I wonder if this is conducive to a lot of short journeys being done by the engine. If we take it to have 90 odd thousand as believed it has then that's a relatively lo mileage for a TDI so short journeys may fit that.
PS i'm convinced you've only stripped it down to save having to take lift it out of the car
It could still be in tolerance, Ill measure and report. Also I’ll ask on the Facebook 3PD group. They know the answers to these questions.
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
I don’t know yet. I have an engine stand coming tomorrow. I’ll get the engine on it and turn it over. Mostly because I want all of the coolant out, I think it is just water. But then I will take the sump off.
I had budgeted for an oil pump for my AMF but if this is, as I believe it is, a 100k engine then I will go with the one on there. Not sure how I could test an oil pump on an engine on a stand?
I will take a good look at the oil pump chain tensioners, chain and sprockets. They will be a good indicator of the condition of the rest; I think.
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
@audifan to answer the first part of your question. This is the cam, bearing caps and shell bearings:
Note damage to the upper shells at each end.
I think the cam is good but as yet I’m undecided as to wether to use it or go with my 170k mile cam. I asked sometime ago what makes an AMF clean. I didn’t get a conclusive answer so I will compare the two, I think the cam is a significant contributor, and will decide which one to run.
Note damage to the upper shells at each end.
I think the cam is good but as yet I’m undecided as to wether to use it or go with my 170k mile cam. I asked sometime ago what makes an AMF clean. I didn’t get a conclusive answer so I will compare the two, I think the cam is a significant contributor, and will decide which one to run.
audifan
A2OC Donor
I often wondered if the cam has sufficient CLEAN oil supply. Inevitably engines wear and bearing shells take the brunt. Looking at yours I see nothing other than normal wear and no real signs of scoring and that is good I would suggest before fitting whatever cam to the engine that you give the journals a very light polish to improve their surfaces. Biggest killer of bearings is the wrong GRADE of oil that is not to spec, cheap non OEM oil filters and over running the service intervals. Wonder if you will find any dip stick tips when you remove the sump?