How to replace rear door micro switch

Completed this replacement today with help from this excellent guide.

Many thanks for sharing.

Also, as noted, I didn't have to remove the window frame. Theres plenty of room to get the unit out with the frame still in place.
 
Hi

Even though it locks & unlocks, I have just had the following appear. Would it be safe to say I need the microswitch? (Part No 8Z0839016D).

Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: None
Controller: 8Z0 959 433 AF
Component: Komfortgerát TBD 1210
Coding: 07931
Shop #: WSC 02138
VCID: 8A67A12BA527
2 Faults Found:
01562 - Right Rear Door
59-10 - Can't Unlock - Intermittent
01562 - Right Rear Door
61-10 - Won't De-Safe - Intermittent
 
Last edited:
sinlessUK said:
Hi

Even though it locks & unlocks, I have just had the following appear. Would it be safe to say I need the microswitch? (Part No 8Z0839016D).

Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: None
Controller: 8Z0 959 433 AF
Component: Komfortgerát TBD 1210
Coding: 07931
Shop #: WSC 02138
VCID: 8A67A12BA527
2 Faults Found:
01562 - Right Rear Door
59-10 - Can't Unlock - Intermittent
01562 - Right Rear Door
61-10 - Won't De-Safe - Intermittent
Click to expand...


I would clear those errors and scan again in a few days to see if it reappears.

When it says "intermittent" it might have just been one blip.

It may well be the microswitch but no point in replacing it until you are sure.

Steve B
 
If you do "need" to remove the frame, mark its position beforehand so that you can return it precisely whence it came, avoiding additional wind noise.

- Bret
 
sinlessUK said:
Hi

Even though it locks & unlocks, I have just had the following appear. Would it be safe to say I need the microswitch? (Part No 8Z0839016D).

Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: None
Controller: 8Z0 959 433 AF
Component: Komfortgerát TBD 1210
Coding: 07931
Shop #: WSC 02138
VCID: 8A67A12BA527
2 Faults Found:
01562 - Right Rear Door
59-10 - Can't Unlock - Intermittent
01562 - Right Rear Door
61-10 - Won't De-Safe - Intermittent
Click to expand...

When you turn the key in the ignition, do the locks cycle?

Cheers,

Tom
 
Awesome guide. Used it this evening and all went well. Little addition however is that you don't need to mess with the window rails, the lock comes out quite happily with some articulation. It is probably less fiddly if you take the window guides out but I'm lazy and gave it a go.

Much like Sinless once I put the door back together again with a known good locking mechanism I noticed the lock wasn't working still, so on a hunch I changed the wiring harness also, hey presto, lock now working.

Only issue is now my door is permanently locked as I closed the car for the evening and now I can't open it again (new harness was only tried in place not installed, so still running the non working harness).

Any idea's how to unlock the door (tried the cable release and no joy) when it is locked like this?

Cheers.
 
mrbroons said:
Only issue is now my door is permanently locked as I closed the car for the evening and now I can't open it again (new harness was only tried in place not installed, so still running the non working harness).

Any idea's how to unlock the door (tried the cable release and no joy) when it is locked like this?
Click to expand...

Hi,

Has the door card (the fabric outer one) been put back on yet? Is it the main door loom that is faulty, or the really small loom that goes from the door lock to a small connector mounted on the Aluminium inner panel? :p

For the following instructions, I have assumed that you have manual windows - if not, see below. If you need to replace the main door loom, then on the connector circled in the position below, you can apply power directly to the lock motor. On the connector leading to the door lock, apply 12V (Positive) to pin 4 and 0V (Negative) to pin 1 for just a second. This should 'de-safe' the door lock, meaning that you will then be able to pull the cable once to unlock the door, and once more to open the door. If this doesn't work, then switch the wires and apply 12V to pin 1 as this will reverse the 'de-safe' motor.



If you have electric rear windows, then on the connector at the window motor that leads to the door lock, replace pins 4 and 1 above with pins 6 and 4 of the black 12 pin connector.

I had to do this procedure during my rear electric window retrofit, as it was done over multiple days and so I needed the doors locked.

Regards,

Matt. :)
 
Last edited:
Hi Matt, not finished reading your reply however the card is not on, it has manual windows and I'm not sure which part of the harness is damaged I'm afraid.


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I've read more now. It is the loom from the door jam to the lock loom that is damaged (the big one)


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Okay, that's good that the card isn't on. :)

As you have manual rears', use the first section of the instructions. If you'd prefer to plug in your replacement loom and connect the 12V supply at the door jam end of the big loom, then use pins 4 and 9 on the 10 pin connector instead of pins 4 and 1 respectively.

Regards,

Matt.
 
Cheers Matt. I'll get this sorted tomorrow night and let you know how I get on. Thanks for helping me out of this hole!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
mrbroons said:
Cheers Matt. I'll get this sorted tomorrow night and let you know how I get on. Thanks for helping me out of this hole!!
Click to expand...

No worries! :)

It's a pain when the doors are like this because they are effectively dead locked until the 'de-safe' motor is activated. Best of luck.

Regards,

Matt. :p
 
Just out of interest Matt are the plugs keyed or numbered so I can locate the correct pins? (newb question I know) :rolleyes:

Cheers.
 
Perhaps a useless tip, but if very small characters and difficult to see, it might be worth taking a picture with a phone and zooming in.
 
Cheers guys will do, will post numbers back here for future reference also. Not enough time this evening to get stuck in.
 
Ok I have attempted this tonight. No luck Im afraid, You can work the lock with pins 1-4 and 1-2 and this locks/unlocks different components according the polarity but nothing seems to make the door open? Any other thoughts? both the door car and aluminium shielf are off the door at present so have good access apart from to the crucial door jams. What a nightmare this is!
 
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