Location of brake light switch

I thought as much. It seems strange that they were able to contain the recall.
Is the switch used in other Audi's as the USA recall seemed to mention only the VW cars?
 
Looks like my 2005 TDi has the faulty brake light switch. Glow plug symbol flashback and no brake lights. Can someone please advise of the Audi part number and also if there is a VW equivalent part. Need to get pars ASAP. Thanks
 
Thanks Jeff I managed to get said switch and fitted. Brake lights fixed.

Note to self; magnetic work light not great on aluminium chassis
 
Ipswich Audi charged me £13. For the sake ofthree quid I'd do that. You'll also get the latest revision.


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I got a Febi Bilstein one posted, not the one linked. Job all done thanks to this great forum. now my glow plug light doesn't flash (and as a minor note my brake lights work now as well)!
 
well...after 2,5 months of replacing the turbo and rear springs etc on my car I finally got to take my car for it's M.O.T yesterday but asked them to replace the inner right CV Boot for me on the driver's side. So, then the car comes off the ramp and they start with the MOT and I notice my right rear break light had gone, suddenly, - no problem luckily had a spare globe in the trunk ...sods law it went right then but it is only after they had done with the M.O.T and I am very happy to say RED passed with only a very very minor advisory on a wire that is rusting and probably want to spray with rust inhibitor or something and cover at some point, that I noticed something strange with my lights. When the MOT person took my car out of the garage I noticed my right front running light flickering on and off...mmmm...never seen that before...then I also noticed that my rear led break light is on when the handbrake is engaged...also a first. But it was not until I drove my car home and suddenly my glow plug symbol started flashing in my dashboard...grrrr. here we go I thought. So I got home and I immediately came onto the forum and low and behold someone else had similar symptoms and it seem to boil down to a switch. Now, I know I only removed the oil temp sensor to get to the oil feed pipe for the turbo so probably want to check that but I rang the garage and my friend said to bring the car and will put on the diagnostic scan and by that time I narrowed it down to the brake switch and that sensor, I hope. Scan showed the same and the brake light switch came up as an issue so popped over to Euro Car parts across from the garage and bought one for £15...

So my job this morning is to open it up under the dash and replace that switch (fingers crossed the switch is correct part) and then hope it solves this problem.

Now I am just wondering...as my car did not have this problem going in to the garage, did the hammering on the wheel on the right hand side have anything to do with the possible failing of the switch? If so...may be something for other people to have in mind when going through the same work of replacing CV`s etc?
 
leosun76 said:
well...after 2,5 months of replacing the turbo and rear springs etc on my car I finally got to take my car for it's M.O.T yesterday but asked them to replace the inner right CV Boot for me on the driver's side. So, then the car comes off the ramp and they start with the MOT and I notice my right rear break light had gone, suddenly, - no problem luckily had a spare globe in the trunk ...sods law it went right then but it is only after they had done with the M.O.T and I am very happy to say RED passed with only a very very minor advisory on a wire that is rusting and probably want to spray with rust inhibitor or something and cover at some point, that I noticed something strange with my lights. When the MOT person took my car out of the garage I noticed my right front running light flickering on and off...mmmm...never seen that before...then I also noticed that my rear led break light is on when the handbrake is engaged...also a first. But it was not until I drove my car home and suddenly my glow plug symbol started flashing in my dashboard...grrrr. here we go I thought. So I got home and I immediately came onto the forum and low and behold someone else had similar symptoms and it seem to boil down to a switch. Now, I know I only removed the oil temp sensor to get to the oil feed pipe for the turbo so probably want to check that but I rang the garage and my friend said to bring the car and will put on the diagnostic scan and by that time I narrowed it down to the brake switch and that sensor, I hope. Scan showed the same and the brake light switch came up as an issue so popped over to Euro Car parts across from the garage and bought one for £15...

So my job this morning is to open it up under the dash and replace that switch (fingers crossed the switch is correct part) and then hope it solves this problem.

Now I am just wondering...as my car did not have this problem going in to the garage, did the hammering on the wheel on the right hand side have anything to do with the possible failing of the switch? If so...may be something for other people to have in mind when going through the same work of replacing CV`s etc?
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If its a dodgy brake light switch then its really nowhere near the wheel so I wouldn't have thought so.

In relation to replacements you need to be careful - I've found that non OEM can be hit or miss. Even the FEBI one I fitted a month or so back works but the cruise doesn't disengage until you give the brake pedal a notable shove - versus OEM where you only needed to tap the pedal.

OEM is now around £24 from TPS
 
break switch replaced although it is not the exact same shape - problem solved now and took car for a quick drive - Love love love the power , think the cleaning up of the egr and manifolds plus the replacement turbo has made quite a difference - not sure how it has affected my remap but the car pulls very strong. Have fitted the under tray and the engine cover back on and now she sounds a bit quieter too -am very happy after a stressful time of thinking should I really have attempted replacing the turbo myself but she runs lovely :cool:
 
spoke to soon!!! Took car for a proper drive on motorway, halfway into it under hard acceleration the ... glow plug symbol is flashing again...but also noticed that the led break light when lights are on comes on too...thinking of returning that switch to euro and getting one from Audi now anyway and check the other electrics that I touched during the turbo install.
 
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In very brief - flashing glowplug light came on half way home Monday. Looked it up here, diagnosed brake light switch, confirmed by daughter pushing pedal with no brake lights coming on although the tail lights and indicators still light up normally. ODB reader had mentioned brake switch implausible signal for some time, and for most of the last year there has always been a loud burst of static on the radio for a second or so whenever the brake pedal is pressed so assume it has now failed. Have sourced a brake switch and am on the drive at the moment having read lots of how-to/DIY older posts including several from Mike Skipton so I have an idea of what I am trying to do, but just not managing it. I have removed the headlight switch, but cannot shift the under-dash trim panel to drop it down - tugging at the upper edge I have managed to get the clip to the left of the steering column to move, but the two flanking the headlight switch are just too much. A screwdriver between the A-pillar lower trim and the side of the dashboard shows that the trim panel has a slight lip at the rear edge that clips in behind the A-pillar, but it is the actual trim clips that are defeating me at the moment.

Any thoughts? Have also started to lift the carpet, thinking about removing the lower A-pillar trim (not essential but thought maybe if the T25s are undone the trim panel would come off easier. The carpet is very tightly pressed in under the inner sill / A-pillar trim and I don't have Tom Cunningham's skills when it comes to dismantling and reassembling trim so I have put it back.
 
Robin_Cox said:
In very brief - flashing glowplug light came on half way home Monday. Looked it up here, diagnosed brake light switch, confirmed by daughter pushing pedal with no brake lights coming on although the tail lights and indicators still light up normally. ODB reader had mentioned brake switch implausible signal for some time, and for most of the last year there has always been a loud burst of static on the radio for a second or so whenever the brake pedal is pressed so assume it has now failed. Have sourced a brake switch and am on the drive at the moment having read lots of how-to/DIY older posts including several from Mike Skipton so I have an idea of what I am trying to do, but just not managing it. I have removed the headlight switch, but cannot shift the under-dash trim panel to drop it down - tugging at the upper edge I have managed to get the clip to the left of the steering column to move, but the two flanking the headlight switch are just too much. A screwdriver between the A-pillar lower trim and the side of the dashboard shows that the trim panel has a slight lip at the rear edge that clips in behind the A-pillar, but it is the actual trim clips that are defeating me at the moment.

Any thoughts? Have also started to lift the carpet, thinking about removing the lower A-pillar trim (not essential but thought maybe if the T25s are undone the trim panel would come off easier. The carpet is very tightly pressed in under the inner sill / A-pillar trim and I don't have Tom Cunningham's skills when it comes to dismantling and reassembling trim so I have put it back.
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When I did this I did remove the lower A-pillar trim and was basically pretty brutal with it. I hate to say it but the worst but still to come though. Inverting oneself to be able to access it and then remove and replace was far from a comfortable manoeuvre tbh. Once I got the old one out and gave it a clean I refitted (my father was under the impression his spare on for the 3L would fit-it didn’t ?) and the problem went away and is yet to return. I’m not looking forward to repeating when it does.
 
@Robin_Cox they're horrible, one of mine broke (photo). Guess you have removed the light switch already and know about the hidden torx on the rhs lower trim(not that this will help). Only other suggestion is to try to get some WD40 or similar onto the clips.
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Yes you’ll need to remove the a pillar kick panel in order to remove the fuse panel. 2 torx screws holding the fuse panel on, 3 clips along the top edge and you’ll need to release the bonnet pull from the T-piece to take it off.

The headlight switch doesn’t need to be removed.
 
That is strange. The "drivers storage" is only held on by 2 torx screws, one hidden on the right by the drivers foot guide. You do not have to remove the foot guide only press it towards the outside of the car to access the bolt. And the spring clips along the upper edge. Disconnect the service flap pull before you try to pull the storage down. Never had to remove the headlight switch either. Raise the steering wheel to its upper limit, then in the gap between the steering shroud and the storage pull down there, you may have to clip the left side back in first as it could have jammed by coming off at an angle. As it comes off you unclip the OBDII socket. This is the way I remove them.
 
I seem to recall moving the light switch to enable easier access to the top edge of the trim(could be wrong) though as @audifan noted, I don't remove the kick panel either, it bends easily enough.
 
I've had the brake switch in and out a number of times due to me trying to nurse ad old one then giving up and buying a replacement. Remove cowl and nothing else needed you can do it by feel tbh.
 
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Had to give up but will read through everyone's new posts above and see if I can amend what I'm doing. However, when moving the car back into the side parking space, the warning light didn't activate (for the first time in 2 days) - so I checked, and now the brake lights had started working again - all except the right hand one which I found had burnt out (and possibly triggered this whole series of events) - I guess that the movement around the area trying to shift the panel may have just shoogled something back into place. So I've just replaced the bulb and put the light switch back in so I can commute in 10 minutes.

Thank you everyone for your help and advice at short notice and an inconvenient time of day - it is hugely appreciated.
 
Has anyone mentioned that you have to remove the airduct tube as well to gain access to the switch, it's the only way I could get to the switch.
 
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