One more AUDI A2 1.2TDI problem

Hello. it is me again. Have one question. If watching clutch actuator value on VAG, measurements, group 02 when clutch engaged for example 1,92V and when disengaged its about 3,8V. I mean when brake is not pushed 1,92V and when brake is pushed 3,8V. But that value when brake is pushed is jumping up and down in the range from 3,8V to 4V, when brake is released 1,92V it is stable all the time, but when brake is pushed and hold for a while that value is changing.

Does it mean that clutch actuator is failed?
 
If the 1.92v is stable, the actuator should be OK.

RAB
 
1,92V is stable but 3,8-4V is not. And as I said it is jumping up and down verry fast. I measurede the same on my friends A2 and there both were stable 1,9V and 3,8V. So, I guess that my actuator could be faulty.
 
With the clutch disengaged the voltage should 3.7 to 4.1v. Is the pump running during the variation? It could indicate a failing actuator but the test is whether it operates the clutch reliably.

RAB
 
No, the pump is not running. It seems like the potentiometer of clutch actuature is faulty. The problem is stil the same - not starting on STOP position. When driving and shifting gears, it looks like accelerator and clutch are being engenged and disengaged not 100% sinchronicly. Also on STOP position no gear. So I am starting to blame clucth actuator...
 
It might affect starting but not non-selection of 1st gear at STOP. Hydraulic oil level? How many gear changes in tiptronic mode before pump re-starts without engine running?

RAB
 
Hydraulic oil level ok. Pressure accumulator replaced with new one. I can do 4-5 gear changes before pump starts. Basic setting done. And always when I turn off ignition there is no gear on STOP. I mean clutch is engaged (car is free to pull or push). And also won't start on STOP. I think only when I will replace clusth actuator I will be sure that the problem is not here. I need to borrow used but working, from someone.
 
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If it's faulty VCDS should pick it up. Did you slacken and then retighten the gear linkage during basic setting? You might be tempted to omit this (as it means removing the undertray and using axle stands), but don't.

RAB
 
This issue hits me too :) What I noticed, that when I putting gear lever to Stop position, dashboard shows changing gear from Revers to Neutral and then to STOP. So last gear is Neutral. I was also thinking that when service guys did adaptation, they maybe did not loosen gear actuator nut a2-4164.png . I'm waiting for VAG cable, will try do do adaptation by manual myself.
 
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I did everything as should be done, with all steps included. But no result. I am sure 100% that it is something with clutch, because when ignition is turned off, the clutch cable is not released. I can see it clearly. But it should be released for PARKING gear (it should be 1st or R gear).
 
The other possibility is that the valves are OK but the control of the solenoid is not. Was your basic setting done by VAG or with VCDS? I had this problem once when the local Audi agent replaced my clutch. In STOP the car was not in gear (which could have been the clutch being open). It might be something to do with the VAG system. A basic setting with VCDS cured it.

RAB
 
I thought that VCDS is the same as VAG. What are the differences? VAG is VAS5054 or similar? I did basic settings with VCDS I guess.
 
By VAG, I meant whatever VAG use (VAS5054?) rather than VAG.COM (VCDS).

RAB
 
So, yes, I did basic settings with VCDS. And still have that problem. I did basic settings for my friend with the same cable and everything went ok. He can start car on STOP after settings, so I think I implement basic settings procedure with no errors. But in the case of my Audi there is still some fault.
 
Today I took my Audi to service for analyze my gearbox/hydraulic/clutch systems. What they found that clutch slave cylinder and gear actuator is leaking, and actuator's axis are too loose. Service guy told, that it could lead to Parking gear issue, cus it cant reach proper gear in STOP. And for my case, it's why clutch operations after basic settings are getting wrong over the time.

Off topic question : is it possible to do restoration for gear actuator? Or is it better to buy new? If yes, maybe someone could point where I can buy it?

Thanks

Valdemaras
 
If the actuator is leaking, which is normally where the gasket is, it can be repaired, assuming no other damage, as the gasket is now available from Audi (at one time it wasn't). You can buy a secondhand one from Ebay or similar but only on the understanding that it is fully functional. Be aware that most gear actuators are probably replaced unnecessarily. Or you can buy one from Audi for about €1300.

My question to your mechanic would be why can it 'reach' 1st when driving but not in STOP? Sounds to me like another expensive and totally unnecessary replacement program!

RAB
 
Hello, it's me once again :)

After two weeks of driving, I noticed that hydraulic liquid level lowers, and leakage seems to be too big. So first thing I will do is slave cylinder replacement.

I want to order new slave cylinder from 3l-profi and found out that there is 2 models:

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Kupplungs-Nehmerzylinder-Vw-Lupo-1-2-TDI-3L-FSI-NEU-/330667060357?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item4cfd4aec85
From Chassis No. 6E-1-001000

and http://www.ebay.de/itm/Kupplungs-Nehmerzylinder-Vw-Lupo-1-2-TDI-3L-FSI-NEU-/330531292309?ssPageName=STORE:HTMLBUILDER:SIMPLEITEM&refid=store
From Chassis No. 6E-1-001001

How to check witch will fit me? Tried to look out in ETKA but with no success.

Also, regarding to service manual, there also should be o-rings for clutch replacements, but I didn't manage to found it.

Please point me where to look out.

Valdemaras
 
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