One more AUDI A2 1.2TDI problem

The first option is TO chassis no..... whereas the second is FROM chassis no....

Actually these refer to the Lupo 3L and the change from front-mounted to rear-mounted battery, not the A2, as the pipework will be incorrect although you could use your existing pipework.

Check the price with VW/AUDI. You might find that it's cheaper!

O rings for the hydraulic lines?

RAB
 
Last edited by a moderator:
In ETKA the slave cylinder is in the Engine section. The cylinder will be supplied with O rings. The only difference between the two cylinders will be the form of the pipework, so either would do if your existing pipe is usable.

If you are renewing the O rings on the gear actuator connections, I would recommend also renewing the clip (085 142 419).

The O rings for both ends of the gear actuator pipework and the hydraulic control unit end of the slave cylinder pipe are 085 142 420. The O rings for the slave cylinder end are 6N0 142 425.

RAB
 
Thanks RAB,

I finally managed to make my order. Local Audi dealer asked for 310 eur. for slave cylinder 6N0142063A.

I've inspected my piping to gear actuator, it looks sealed, so I'm thinking to leave as it is now.

Will inform about changes this/next week after replacement.

Valdemaras
 
Hello,

Today I took my Audi from service and everything what was wrong went away :)

Last thing left is operating rod 085 142 471, it's bit lose but not dead already.

Surprisingly, I can start my car in STOP position :)

So thanks for supporting me.

Valdemaras
 
Hello,

Today I took my Audi from service and everything what was wrong went away :)

Last thing left is operating rod 085 142 471, it's bit lose but not dead already.

Surprisingly, I can start my car in STOP position :)

So thanks for supporting me.

Valdemaras

So the clutch cylinder was the problem presumably?

RAB
 
So the clutch cylinder was the problem presumably?

RAB

After slave cylinder replacement I noticed few changes:
1. My car can start in STOP position.
2. 1st gear kicks in in STOP position, so I don't need to leave it on level surface.
3. Hydraulic pump launches not so often as it was.
4. After basic settings gear changing is smooth and it's not going down regarding kilometers I run ( after clutch replacement, basic settings gone totally after 10 km ).
5. After cold start, there is no twitching after brake release.

I will try to inspect my old slave cylinder to see what could cause malfunction.

Now, I'm driving like a boss :)

Valdemaras
 
Probably due to the slave cylinder potentiometer being on its way out - unstable voltage. That would explain why my A2 would not start and go into 1st in STOP, when Audi replaced the clutch as I knew that the slave cylinder was marginal. My Lupo 3L currently has the same symptoms.

RAB
 
Hi guys... I recently bought a Lupo 3L. New accumulator installed, hydraulic orings changed, hydraulic oil changed, turbo cleaned, went for a test drive, the car went through gears like before, definitely needing a basic setting done, but Ok, not stuck in any gear, and things like that. I forgot to ask whether it had been done, so i drove back to the garage. The mechanic said "No", so he took his laptop, and started doing the settings. The vcsd was slow to respond, giving instructions to loosen the gear actuator nut and re-tighten it, the thing we ignored. The gearbox started making clicking sounds. He unhooked the laptop from the OBD connector, and the car refused to start afterwards. When in tiptronic mode, it continued clicking and selecting gears.... We connected it to vcsd again and it went through 1, 2, 3, had trouble selecting 4, and went on to 5, sometimes barely touching 4. Then the mechanic tried disconnecting the gear actuator nut all together hoping that the gearbox could go through the gears unobstructed and finish the settings, which didn't yield any results (of course: the nut requires loosening, not removing) I tried to start the car when the car was lowered, the engine started, but immediately cut off. The mechanic was in the middle of servicing another car so he had to leave Lupo for tomorrow hoping to find the solution. Any advice would be appreciated! I am now worried if any damage had been done and whether things had been seriously messed up... Before changing the accumulator and fluid, the car was going through all the gears, but was not doing it right, i guess (but bear in mind that i have never ever driven any automatic). It would hold 4 gear at very low revs, for example, then shift down to 1 under braking much later than I would do.... things like that... behaving as if a bad driver was behind the wheel of a manual gearbox car. I may have noticed that a few times the car refused to start from the first attempt. Olso, when i put the gear selector in STOP, the engine would shut off in 5 gear? What do you think about this? Why did the car have difficulty going through all the gears even before loosening (in our case disconnecting) the nut? And how to recover from the interrupted basic setting? Thanks a lot?
 
Last edited:
All sounds fairly normal to me, except perhaps fourth gear. Basics settings are not a pick 'n mix option; follow to the letter. If you miss something out, expect it to fail which means that you won't be able to start the engine. Fix any errors and start again. '5' is used for 'S' meaning STOP.

RAB
 
Tnx Rab. The mechanic requested something from VW, and still had problems... He just said that the car goes through 1-28 and then throws some error. I hope he will find the problem, if not i'll want a full error report and post it here. Tnx a lot... He said that the rod is ok, nothing loose or worn out, accumulator is new, oil changed, o rings changed.... Prior to the setting, the car was drivesble, just not precise in shifting, so i hope this is not a major problem....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Rab, what i am most interested in.... Do the error codes pinpoint to the problem exactly, so that the mechanic knows what part to change if something is wrong, or is it just a hit and miss job? I would hate to get into a position to buy parts at random in the hope of finding a solution...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
No they don't but will give a pretty good indication of what is wrong. Best option for you is to buy VCDS unless your mechanic is a 1.2 expert; it will soon pay for itself!

RAB
 
Hi guys... I recently bought a Lupo 3L. New accumulator installed, hydraulic orings changed, hydraulic oil changed, turbo cleaned, went for a test drive, the car went through gears like before, definitely needing a basic setting done, but Ok, not stuck in any gear, and things like that. I forgot to ask whether it had been done, so i drove back to the garage. The mechanic said "No", so he took his laptop, and started doing the settings. The vcsd was slow to respond, giving instructions to loosen the gear actuator nut and re-tighten it, the thing we ignored. The gearbox started making clicking sounds. He unhooked the laptop from the OBD connector, and the car refused to start afterwards. When in tiptronic mode, it continued clicking and selecting gears.... We connected it to vcsd again and it went through 1, 2, 3, had trouble selecting 4, and went on to 5, sometimes barely touching 4. Then the mechanic tried disconnecting the gear actuator nut all together hoping that the gearbox could go through the gears unobstructed and finish the settings, which didn't yield any results (of course: the nut requires loosening, not removing) I tried to start the car when the car was lowered, the engine started, but immediately cut off. The mechanic was in the middle of servicing another car so he had to leave Lupo for tomorrow hoping to find the solution. Any advice would be appreciated! I am now worried if any damage had been done and whether things had been seriously messed up... Before changing the accumulator and fluid, the car was going through all the gears, but was not doing it right, i guess (but bear in mind that i have never ever driven any automatic). It would hold 4 gear at very low revs, for example, then shift down to 1 under braking much later than I would do.... things like that... behaving as if a bad driver was behind the wheel of a manual gearbox car. I may have noticed that a few times the car refused to start from the first attempt. Olso, when i put the gear selector in STOP, the engine would shut off in 5 gear? What do you think about this? Why did the car have difficulty going through all the gears even before loosening (in our case disconnecting) the nut? And how to recover from the interrupted basic setting? Thanks a lot?

Sounds like you're not yet accustomed to how the 1.2TDi drives. It will cycle through all of the gears when braking and will change down quite late when doing so, so you will get low rev vibration. That's normal. Sounds like the mechanic didn't know how to make the basic setting properly. You just gotta follow the instructions to the letter, like RAB said. If it fails or is interrupted before it is finished, the car won't work.
 
Prior to the setting, the car was drivesble, just not precise in shifting, so i hope this is not a major problem....

To drive a 1.2 "smoothly", you need gradual accelerator changes as the gear change point is influenced by the position of the accelerator, i.e. more accelerator will give earlier gear changes. Driving a 1.2 is a little like learning to drive again!

RAB
 
Tnx guys. I will let you know what happened. If this all goes well my plan is to buy another 3L, or Audi A2 1.2Tdi. This Lupo has climate control and is in excellent condition, so i hope we can fix it. It must have had and has some glitch since it happened a few times that it wouldn't start from the first attempt at switching on the ignition. Also, the mechanic topped up the servo oil when he should t have done so, because the pump sucked in all the fluid, and he thought it was nearly empty. After that the car lost drive and started spilling the excess oil at the green cap, but all was fine afterwards... I regret trying the basic settings because the car drove Ok. Yep, what i meant by saying the shifting wasn't precise is the way the car shifted and stayed in a gear at very low revs... But I see it was due to driving style...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Hi,
I have a Audi 1.2 tdi and drives well, until recently it's been over revving, and causes the clutch to slip.
I don't have vag-com. Only a hand-held diagnostic tool.
I've scanned it and shows this error...
00263
Transmission
Sporadic
implausible signal.

01155
Clutch
sporadic- speed
Difference too great.

The accumulator has been replaced and I'm getting 4-5 gear changes with ignition on.
I've replaced the G38 speed sensor on gearbox as well..

The car Imo needs a basic setting done, but as I don't own a vag-com is there anyone on here that can help carry out basic setting...
Thanks in advance

besta2
 
I did everything as should be done, with all steps included. But no result. I am sure 100% that it is something with clutch, because when ignition is turned off, the clutch cable is not released. I can see it clearly. But it should be released for PARKING gear (it should be 1st or R gear).

In STOP, 1st gear is (or should be) engaged as is the clutch, otherwise gear engagement is irrelevant.

RAB
 
Back
Top