Problems with key or immobilizer coil (plus evaporator

[L162LZ]

For the past few days I've had problems with cold starting (TDI 75). It starts up straight away and then dies again within a few seconds and the immobilizer light is on the dash.
If I try half a dozen times eventually it will start. After that it is OK and I can stop the engine and restart without an issue even after a few hours, it only seems to appear so far during the first cold start of the day.
I've scanned with VCDS and have the following errors. I've changed the battery in the key (in the hope it really is something that simple) but cant test until tomorrow morning when the cars been sat overnight. I can also try the second key then to check if its a problem with the key itself.

If its not the key is it likely to be the pickup coil and is that easy (and available) to exchange

If anybody has had the same problem and can suggest a course of action to properly identify the cause I'd appreciate any advice

Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8Z0-920-xxx-17.lbl
Part No: 8Z0 920 950
Component: W1-KOMBIINSTR. VDO D13
Coding: 09430
Shop #: WSC 00001
VCID: 7BA3FF3C6AF09A727A1-5160
WAUZZZ8ZZ1N045392 AUZ7Z0Y1773187

3 Faults Found:
01128 - Immobilizer Pickup Coil (D2)
35-10 - - - Intermittent
01176 - Key
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
01336 - Company Data Bus for Comfort System
80-10 - Single-Wire Operation - Intermittent

The scan also showed up this error:

00818 - Sensor for Evaporator Outlet Temperature (G263)
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus

I've seen there are a number of threads on this error, one mentioned thats its a dash out job on a RHD A2 is this still correct or in the meantime has anybody managed to do it with the dash in place?

Thanks Dave

 

[bix]

Did you try match the key with the immobilizer. I don't remember exactly the sequence but you need to open driver window and leave the key inside and then lock unlock the car then go inside and start the car. This essentially bind the key to the immobilizer.

 

[L162LZ]

Did you try match the key with the immobilizer. I don't remember exactly the sequence but you need to open driver window and leave the key inside and then lock unlock the car then go inside and start the car. This essentially bind the key to the immobilizer.

Hi, thanks for suggestion. No i didnt yet, but the fact that the car starts straight away after the initial "cold start" in the mornings I assumed (maybe incorrectly) that this wouldnt be the issue.
If I get the same issue in the morning with first key but the second key works I'll assume its a faulty key, or it needs a resync

 

[a-zwo]

The method bix is referring to is only for the remote central locking part, you need VCDS to code an immobiliser.
Try clearing the codes and see what comes back.

It could be a failing solder joint that improves when it heats up. Hopefully someone has some direct experience

 

[bix]

Yes I would rebind both keys to the car. Just search the forum for the proper sequence and tomorrow morning try both keys if both keys fail then it could be faulty receiver in steering column.

 

[L162LZ]

The method bix is referring to is only for the remote central locking part, you need VCDS to code an immobiliser.
Try clearing the codes and see what comes back.

It could be a failing solder joint that improves when it heats up. Hopefully someone has some direct experience

Thanks, The keys work perfectly for the door locks. I do have a full copy of VCDS (I used this to do the initial scan) I have cleared the codes and will see if they reappear in the morning

 

[Howey]

The remote locking or indeed manual locking have absolutely nothing at all to do with the immobiliser, the fact both keys are doing the same points directly to the coil reader

Perfect excuse to get a tinker on ecu map and remove the immobiliser, job done!

 

[2work]

Evening,

Your intermittent engine starting woes are as per your scan that you’ve included in the first post.

To understand these fault codes it really is worth search the internet first before you get the run about about changing remote fob batteries etcetera.

The fault 01128 is the reason:

The pick up coil is the black plastic looking item around the ignition barrel. These wires could have been easily damaged if you’re been working in or around this area with the steering column cowling/trim panels removed. Has any such work been conducted recently?

The other faults related to this is also shown in the first post 01176:

Your third reported fault is 01336

The fault 00818 fault is as you’ve identified; the G263 sensor. Have a read if this thread to understand the replacement without having to remove the dashboard:

15 minute G263 sensor removal

At the request of a fellow forum member I have collated the below regarding the replacement of a faulty G263 sensor. Hopefully this will be of some help. G263 sensor (stock photo) Note: when fitted it will be the other way up (so the angle is downwards) with the connector end on the right...

www.a2oc.net

Kind regards,

Tom

 

[L162LZ]

Evening,

Your intermittent engine starting woes are as per your scan that you’ve included in the first post.

To understand these fault codes it really is worth search the internet first before you get the run about about changing remote fob batteries etcetera.

The fault 01128 is the reason:

View attachment 120682

The pick up coil is the black plastic looking item around the ignition barrel. These wires could have been easily damaged if you’re been working in or around this area with the steering column cowling/trim panels removed. Has any such work been conducted recently?

The other faults related to this is also shown in the first post 01176:

View attachment 120683

Your third reported fault is 01336
View attachment 120684

The fault 00818 fault is as you’ve identified; the G263 sensor. Have a read if this thread to understand the replacement without having to remove the dashboard:

15 minute G263 sensor removal

At the request of a fellow forum member I have collated the below regarding the replacement of a faulty G263 sensor. Hopefully this will be of some help. G263 sensor (stock photo) Note: when fitted it will be the other way up (so the angle is downwards) with the connector end on the right...

www.a2oc.net

Kind regards,

Tom

Thanks Tom,
I was assuming that it was either the key itself or the immobilizer coil. If it stops raining over the next few days I'll have a go at checking the wiring/connector, I havent removed the cowl at all since owning the car (November) so havent disturbed the wiring.

If it is faulty though I'm not sure is it changable without changing the barrel itself (and also needing to change the keys)? cant tell from the pictures if theyre a single unit. If they are I assume it might be better to get the immobilizer mapped out?

Thanks for sending the link to the G263 sensor I found it about 20 minutes after I posted but then lost it again lol. I might have to do some yoga training to make sure I can flex enough to get into the correct positions !!!

Cheers Dave

UPDATE: Just been out and tried to start it as its been sat now for over 3 hours. Started first time (tried with second key too), will see how it is in the morning. Wierd that its only ever (so far) happened on the very first start of the day

 

[L162LZ]

Thanks Tom,
I was assuming that it was either the key itself or the immobilizer coil. If it stops raining over the next few days I'll have a go at checking the wiring/connector, I havent removed the cowl at all since owning the car (November) so havent disturbed the wiring.

If it is faulty though I'm not sure is it changable without changing the barrel itself (and also needing to change the keys)? cant tell from the pictures if theyre a single unit. If they are I assume it might be better to get the immobilizer mapped out?

Thanks for sending the link to the G263 sensor I found it about 20 minutes after I posted but then lost it again lol. I might have to do some yoga training to make sure I can flex enough to get into the correct positions !!!

Cheers Dave

UPDATE: Just been out and tried to start it as its been sat now for over 3 hours. Started first time (tried with second key too), will see how it is in the morning. Wierd that its only ever (so far) happened on the very first start of the day

Left it overnight until 11:00am this morning and again started first time, will see how it goes over the next few days. Only things I did so far are new battery in fob and cleared the "intermittent" errors with VCDS

 

[PlasticMac]

Left it overnight until 11:00am this morning and again started first time, will see how it goes over the next few days. Only things I did so far are new battery in fob and cleared the "intermittent" errors with VCDS

I don't think the immo uses the fob battery. It's like contact less payment. The car energises the immo "chip" in the fob.
Mac.

 

[L162LZ]

I don't think the immo uses the fob battery. It's like contact less payment. The car energises the immo "chip" in the fob.
Mac.

Thanks that makes sense! Assume it's a variation on the setup the access control system we had in our site employed. The reader energized the access card and combined their "keys" to authorize and allow the lock to be opened. Assume that's how the immobilizer works too. I should have thought about it a bit more.

 

[a-zwo]

Yep that’s exactly how it works. The immobiliser is a combination of the key “transponder”, the instrument cluster and the engine ECU. If any of those don’t match then you can’t start the car.

When you have an immobiliser delete, you’re just disabling the check on the ECU, so it will start the engine regardless.

 

[L162LZ]

Yep that’s exactly how it works. The immobiliser is a combination of the key “transponder”, the instrument cluster and the engine ECU. If any of those don’t match then you can’t start the car.

When you have an immobiliser delete, you’re just disabling the check on the ECU, so it will start the engine regardless.

Thanks, do you know if its the coil that is intermittently failing is replaceable. I've googled it but can only see people selling the whole lock keys and ECU bundle. Is the coil (assume acts as an aerial) actually removable? If not then I think I'm better off just getting it deleted from the map. @depronman is this something that can be added into my current remap if needed?

 

[PlasticMac]

I'd think the coil, (D2 in pic below), is replaceable. Connected to the cluster with screened cable. As yours is intermittent, poor connection, or, depending on how it's fixed, maybe it's moved so range is marginal.
Good luck.
Mac.

 

[PlasticMac]

Found this old post, #2:
Post in thread 'Procedure for emergency start, Key Immobilizer don't work' https://www.a2oc.net/community/inde...t-key-immobilizer-dont-work.46973/post-448869
Mac.

 

[L162LZ]

I'd think the coil, (D2 in pic below), is replaceable. Connected to the cluster with screened cable. As yours is intermittent, poor connection, or, depending on how it's fixed, maybe it's moved so range is marginal.
Good luck.
Mac.

View attachment 120733

Thanks Ive been Googling it. In all the videos I can see, the coil (assume black barrel surround with connector in video) looks like it's attached to the actual key cylinder. I wonder if it can be removed?

 

[timmus]

It is not possible to separate the immobiliser pickup coil from the ignition barrel. The only proper way to resolve this problem is to fit a new lockset to the car.

I appreciate that there's a satisfaction to researching and resolving an issue yourself, but if you want a low-cost, low-effort solution, I'm happy to help. I'm only a few junctions up the M6, and I have dozens of complete locksets in stock, plus the dedicated tool required to release the ignition barrel.
My usual mantra applies: be better than Audi dealerships and cheaper than your local garage.

Should you need an immediate, by-post solution, I can send you an ECU with the immobiliser disabled. This isn't a permanent solution, but ensures that you're not caught out by the complete failure of the pickup coil.

Best wishes,

Tom

 

[PlasticMac]

Thanks Ive been Googling it. In all the videos I can see, the coil (assume black barrel surround with connector in video) looks like it's attached to the actual key cylinder. I wonder if it can be removed?

Loose, or oxidised connector would be my first check.
I suppose if the coil was removable from the barrel, it wouldnt be an effective theft deterrent.
Another bit of useful info from @timmus
Mac.

 

[L162LZ]

It is not possible to separate the immobiliser pickup coil from the ignition barrel. The only proper way to resolve this problem is to fit a new lockset to the car.

I appreciate that there's a satisfaction to researching and resolving an issue yourself, but if you want a low-cost, low-effort solution, I'm happy to help. I'm only a few junctions up the M6, and I have dozens of complete locksets in stock, plus the dedicated too required to release the ignition barrel.
My usual mantra applies: be better than Audi dealerships and cheaper than your local garage.

Should you need an immediate, by-post solution, I can send you an ECU with the immobiliser disabled. This isn't a permanent solution, but ensures that you're not caught out by the complete failure of the pickup coil.

Best wishes,

Tom

Thanks Tom I've sent you a PM