Chat Purchased a 1.6 FSI

While your under there, you could check the external mechanism of the flaps. The actuator is at the left hand end, just out of your pic. It has a rubber vacum tube, coming from the solenoid valve that controls it. If you can remove the tube from the actuator, and attach a similar tube, you can suck on the tube, watch the actuator, and the linkage move, 🤞.
Known as the "suck it and see" test.
Mac.
 
I spy a bit of bodgery. Hmm I'll post a pic when I'm on my lapdog.

Evidence of what looks like a broken flap control lever "fixed" with copper wire! Not quite sure that is OEM. I think I need to take a closer look, there isn't much room round there.

Just found this.
 

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These are the captures from VCDS today. I did try to go into the engine settings but I think I need tounderstand the parameters I need to enter.


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From the main screen, select Engine>Fault Codes. You'll see a list of codes.
Press Copy Report, (copy to clip board), then paste text into notepad. (Open notepad before you start).
Now click on Clear DTCs, to clear the faults that are, probably, mostly historical.
Mac.
 
PlasticMac said:
From the main screen, select Engine>Fault Codes. You'll see a list of codes.
Press Copy Report, (copy to clip board), then paste text into notepad. (Open notepad before you start).
Now click on Clear DTCs, to clear the faults that are, probably, mostly historical.
Mac.
Click to expand...
Take a look here, for a walk through of VCDS. Free version of VCDS doesn’t do Auto Scan. You have to do each controller, one by one.
Mac.
 
PlasticMac said:
While your under there, you could check the external mechanism of the flaps. The actuator is at the left hand end, just out of your pic. It has a rubber vacum tube, coming from the solenoid valve that controls it. If you can remove the tube from the actuator, and attach a similar tube, you can suck on the tube, watch the actuator, and the linkage move, 🤞.
Known as the "suck it and see" test.
Mac.
Click to expand...
"Suck it and see" test works and the plunger sprung back down when air let in. I guess the flap mech is causing this? Assume spring-loaded.
 
AndyBa said:
"Suck it and see" test works and the plunger sprung back down when air let in. I guess the flap mech is causing this? Assume spring-loaded.
Click to expand...
Yes, sprung to the down, (fully open inlet), and vacum driven to the up, (restricted inlet), position.
Mac
 
PlasticMac said:
Yes, sprung to the down, (fully open inlet), and vacum driven to the up, (restricted inlet), position.
Mac
Click to expand...
A good sign. The engine scan will confirm if the flap is moving through it's full arc 🤞
Mac.
Edit: There’s a potentiometer on the flap shaft, monitored by the ECU.
Mac.
 
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Good Afternoon,

As best as can I tell from the image the vacuum actuator has broken at the top of the arm, the usual place. I am impressed the DIY repair is holding up but long term it needs replacing.

Not a cheap part, 036 129 061 A, but does seem still available from Audi/TPS, ebay, and others.

if you prefer to use the far cheaper used part route then put an ad in wanted under Marketplace on here.

Not a 5 minute job to replace. It has been proposed that this can be achieved without removing the inlet manifold but never seen a reported success. Otherwise inlet manifold off, a lot more involved, but has the advantage it gives the opportunity to clean the flaps and ports to give the manifold a new lease of life and prevent the flaps sticking for many years.

Andy
 
Andrew said:
Good Afternoon,

As best as can I tell from the image the vacuum actuator has broken at the top of the arm, the usual place. I am impressed the DIY repair is holding up but long term it needs replacing.

Not a cheap part, 036 129 061 A, but does seem still available from Audi/TPS, ebay, and others.

if you prefer to use the far cheaper used part route then put an ad in wanted under Marketplace on here.

Not a 5 minute job to replace. It has been proposed that this can be achieved without removing the inlet manifold but never seen a reported success. Otherwise inlet manifold off, a lot more involved, but has the advantage it gives the opportunity to clean the flaps and ports to give the manifold a new lease of life and prevent the flaps sticking for many years.

Andy
Click to expand...
A quick scan of evilbay shows the cost of the flap actuator at circa £170, wow. An opportunity for an engineer to machine a more durable solution, maybe out of cast ali ;). Hopefully to signs its moving the flaps is promising.

I've taken a couple of scans of the engine running at various speeds (It isn't currently insured to drive on the road.
No historic faults registered.
I scanned Groups 1, 2 & 3 but don't know what the responses should be and what indicates that the flaps are working/not working.
 
AndyBa said:
A quick scan of evilbay shows the cost of the flap actuator at circa £170, wow. An opportunity for an engineer to machine a more durable solution, maybe out of cast ali ;). Hopefully to signs its moving the flaps is promising.

I've taken a couple of scans of the engine running at various speeds (It isn't currently insured to drive on the road.
No historic faults registered.
I scanned Groups 1, 2 & 3 but don't know what the responses should be and what indicates that the flaps are working/not working.
Click to expand...
If you have cleared all engine DTCs, then you'll need to be able to drive the car properly, (full engine revs and loads), so that the flaps go through there functions a few times, before a scan to confirm, or otherwise, if the flaps are OK. No need to get into measuring blocks, if there are no DTCs.
A scan of a controller tells you if that controllers functionality is good. If no DTCs, no need for measuring blocks.
Mac.
 
PlasticMac said:
If you have cleared all engine DTCs, then you'll need to be able to drive the car properly, (full engine revs and loads), so that the flaps go through there functions a few times, before a scan to confirm, or otherwise, if the flaps are OK. No need to get into measuring blocks, if there are no DTCs.
A scan of a controller tells you if that controllers functionality is good. If no DTCs, no need for measuring blocks.
Mac.
Click to expand...
Thanks Mac, I was just going to update my post with the fact that I've printed the FSI PDF file with all the Group listings and values so I could try to understand it...
I guess I'll have to insure the car and take it for a whizz with the lapdog attached...That means the latter needs a new battery !

Whilst messing I opened the boot to find the 6 CD changer, NICE!
 
Just thought of how to check the flap mechanism, without a drive.
When you have worked on the mechanism, you must perform an "adaptation" which is a sort of calibration of the flap movement and the potentiometer, checks both end positions, and if it's OK, they become the ECU's reference points.
So, if you perform that adaptation, and it completes OK, all is well, if not ...
Here's how, (acknowledgement to @Sarge ).
Turn the key on but do not start the car.


  • [Select]
  • [01 - Engine]
  • [Measuring Blocks - 08]

Enter Group 060

  • [Go!]
  • [Switch to basic settings]

Once you do this you will see the top right display say ADP RUN. The TB adaptation is being done as soon as you switch to basic settings. You will see the values change and hear the TB cycle for the first few seconds then it will stop. Leave it in Basic Settings for about 30 seconds.

  • [Switch to Meas. Blocks] button and you're all set.

Be sure not to touch the accelerator and make sure the engine is NOT running when you do this!

Mac.
Edit: This needs residual vacuum to operate the actuator, so the engine needs to have run, but turned off, for the adaptation to run.
Mac.
 
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PlasticMac said:
It's $99. The registration is linked to one pc, and can be changed once only, in case if pc failure. So choose a pc that will🤞last.
Mac.
Click to expand...
I've gone a paid for the licence. Circa £85.
I'm assuming they mail me something back to load on the app. I'll take a look at the vid.
 
AndyBa said:
I've gone a paid for the licence. Circa £85.
I'm assuming they mail me something back to load on the app. I'll take a look at the vid.
Click to expand...
Yes, you gave Ross-Tech your pc id, they'll email you a soft dongle to save to the vcds folder.
Mac.
 
So I received the licence file and now have the "full-fat" version of VCDS lite.
I followed the procedure above and after 30secs the values stablised. I think they are the same as before. I started the car but had symptoms of a flat battery. I jump started it and it fired first time. However on the second attempt still needed a bit of pedal. Once started and idling there is a strong smell of fuel so I assume the mixture is too rich.
 
AndyBa said:
So I received the licence file and now have the "full-fat" version of VCDS lite.
I followed the procedure above and after 30secs the values stablised. I think they are the same as before. I started the car but had symptoms of a flat battery. I jump started it and it fired first time. However on the second attempt still needed a bit of pedal. Once started and idling there is a strong smell of fuel so I assume the mixture is too rich.
Click to expand...
Keep car connected to battery charger whilst scanning as it uses a lot of power to fire up all the controllers.
 
If the adaptation was OK, then you don't have a flap problem.
I don't think scan results will tell you that much if all DTCs were previously cleared. The flat battery will probably have triggered many false DTCs, which must be cleared. Not sure you'll see what's going on, until you can get it fully warmed up, and give it a varied drive.
You can check fuel pressure though, and it would be well worth doing that. Group 140.
Mac
 
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