Wont start. Fuel pump/relay

??? Any fuel in the cylinders???
It won't run without fuel :) 👍
You can check all the ancillary parts but you'll still get the same result an engine that won't start.
 
I'm assuming so.
But I don't know.
If fuel is passing through the tandem pump proved by the excess fuel being pumped through the clear pipe in the photos above, then I assume its also getting to the cylinders, or is it????
I am tempted to take out the glow plugs because as said above, that should prove that fuel is entering the cylinders, shouldn't it ⁉️
 
I'm also assuming that when cranking and fuel is passing through the cylinders, one should be able to at least smell fuel at the exhaust end pipe, dunno?
 
Start with removing the glow plugs as the exhaust smell is an inconclusive test. 👍
If you have a YouTube chanel please video the engine cranking over and put a link to the video.

When cranking the engine do not stand in front of it as no one likes a face full of atomised fuel.
 
You can test the glow plugs & relay as follows.
If you think it's broken. 20240118_133032-COLLAGE.jpg
Located in the passenger footwell
20240118_134034.jpg
12v to energise and test resistance as image

20240116_132854.jpg
Test that there's 11v-12v at the glow plug loom

:) 👍
 
You can do a rule of thumb check on the injector loom.
Remove the glow plugs and see if atomised diesel comes out of the glow plug orifice.
If it does come out the glow plug holes then we can say with a fair degree of confidance say that
  1. A sufficient amount of diesel is being supplied by the pump to the injectors for them to inject fuel
  2. The injector loom is carrying the signal from the ecu to open and close the injector solenoid valve allowing it to meter diesel to the cylinder
:) 👍
 
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I've actually got a fully working and good glow plugs that I removed from my write off 75 BHP 05 plate a number of years ago incase any or all are FUBAR, it's the removing the old ones that worries me.
 
If there is no fuel ejected from the glow plug orifice then
  1. The fuel supply maybe a limiting factor
  2. The loom maybe malfunctioning
  3. All the injectors failed at once
 
Fill the wells around the glow plug with WD40 and keep topping it up for a day or so to give it chance to get into the threads

Then apply heat and try and get them out


Hopefully they'll be removed with ease 🤞
 
Removing the glow plugs on a cold engine is highly likely to result in a snapped plug
There is little to be gained by removing the plugs
The bottom line is if diesel is being injected the engine will run or attempt to run

No attempt to run or run means no fuel in the cylinders
This may be dodgy loom or lack of fuel to the injectors. The chances of the loom failing to supply all three injectors is very low. Lottery numbers low
So it is going to be lack of diesel at the injectors. Bear in mind that the fuel gallery once full of air will take some time to bleed out the air and fuel to be available at the three injectors

Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Correct @depronman what can we do
next to help @johnyfartbox get his car going please?


Note
If glow plugs have been changed on at a regular interval, had copper slick applied to the threads and the correct torque given when refitted there is no reason why they cannot be removed when the engine is cold. However as @depronman suggests it is advantageous to remove glow plugs when the engine is nice and warm.
 
Dear @johnyfartbox,
Just as a reminder WD40 sprayed around the neck of the glow plugs where they enter the cylinder head over the next couple of days as preventative maintenance.
:) 👍
 
johnyfartbox said:
Ok peeps.
I removed the feed back pipe from the metal pipe and just connected a see through pipe to the return pipe and cracked the engine over, good battery by the way.
Lowring the said pipe into a fill can.
After a few cranks I could see the fuel being pumped into the clear pipe but could see bubbles and froth, pictures here.View attachment 120877View attachment 120878





So This says to me that the fuel is getting through the tandem and is returning back to the tank .

Obs I have air in the system and Im still trying to find out where from, but my other problem is , the car WILL not start at all, no matter how much I crank it.
I think it might be an idea if admin could merge mine and Neil's problem into a dedicated thread with a suitable title.

View attachment 120879
Click to expand...
@johnyfartbox Looks same as what I am seeing froth and bubble in the pipe . Havent had time to do anything further with the car today. I do want to try anothe round with the vacuum pump and understand whether I havent tried the process for long enough in case there is any reduction in the air im clearly seeing. Also can confirm the rev counter does also move on attempting start.
 
tnpali01 said:
@johnyfartbox Looks same as what I am seeing froth and bubble in the pipe . Havent had time to do anything further with the car today. I do want to try anothe round with the vacuum pump and understand whether I havent tried the process for long enough in case there is any reduction in the air im clearly seeing. Also can confirm the rev counter does also move on attempting start.
Click to expand...
I am still thinking this is either residual air from how the car was parked at an angle facing uphill, so needs to stick with vacuum pump and bleed process for longer, filter issue , i dont think its blocked as fuel is getting through tandem, or now possible air in leak from attempting and failing to progress the filter change (drain plug leak). Drain plug seems to be fully screwed in

Also wondering if there is a large amount of air to clear, how much will be extracted using the manual vacuum pump each time . I have rescanned and no faults other than DTC for door lock which was ongoing issue already present .
 
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