New arrival..

DaveySprocket

DaveySprocket

A2OC Donor
I bought this A2 about 14 years ago for £3500 if I remember correctly, then sold it to a distant family member about 6 years ago for £700, and have just now bought it back for £200, which may or may not be a bargain.

IMG_20240126_115558_HDR.jpg

It's a 1.4 TDI Sport, and it's generally body wise in great condition, so that's a bonus, but it has plenty of other issues. Possibly the worst of which is a bit of a crunchy 3rd gear. If you are very careful a clean change is possible, but it's not ideal of course.

I was told it had lots of issues, and knew that the battery had been going flat overnight, so a gate switch had been very badly fitted to the battery as a solution. The battery is quite new but not as big as it should be. The central locking isn't working either, but I was told it was the battery in the key. Today I charged the battery, and have just hooked up a clamp meter to test the quiescent draw on the battery. I got a reading of 0.05 amps, which seems okay I think?

So I think I will start from scratch forgetting what I have been told, and try to figure out what's going on.. My cheapo OBD reader has thrown up the following:

01463 Alarm Triggered by sensor for anti theft system
01333 Left rear door control module
P125600 Coolant temperature sensor open circuit/short circuit to B+
P155600 Charge press. Ctrl. Value below lower control unit (Turbo)
00778 Steering angle sensor
P057100 Cruise/brake switch (A) Circ. Malfunction (Brake light switch?)

I researched all these issues online last night, so I have a bit of an idea what they are about and where to look next. I think I'll start with putting a new battery in the key, to see if the key is the problem, or if there is maybe something up with the CCCU, or the Left door control module is causing problems or??
 
DaveySprocket said:
I bought this A2 about 14 years ago for £3500 if I remember correctly, then sold it to a distant family member about 6 years ago for £700, and have just now bought it back for £200, which may or may not be a bargain.

View attachment 118229
It's a 1.4 TDI Sport, and it's generally body wise in great condition, so that's a bonus, but it has plenty of other issues. Possibly the worst of which is a bit of a crunchy 3rd gear. If you are very careful a clean change is possible, but it's not ideal of course.

I was told it had lots of issues, and knew that the battery had been going flat overnight, so a gate switch had been very badly fitted to the battery as a solution. The battery is quite new but not as big as it should be. The central locking isn't working either, but I was told it was the battery in the key. Today I charged the battery, and have just hooked up a clamp meter to test the quiescent draw on the battery. I got a reading of 0.05 amps, which seems okay I think?

So I think I will start from scratch forgetting what I have been told, and try to figure out what's going on.. My cheapo OBD reader has thrown up the following:

01463 Alarm Triggered by sensor for anti theft system
01333 Left rear door control module
P125600 Coolant temperature sensor open circuit/short circuit to B+
P155600 Charge press. Ctrl. Value below lower control unit (Turbo)
00778 Steering angle sensor
P057100 Cruise/brake switch (A) Circ. Malfunction (Brake light switch?)

I researched all these issues online last night, so I have a bit of an idea what they are about and where to look next. I think I'll start with putting a new battery in the key, to see if the key is the problem, or if there is maybe something up with the CCCU, or the Left door control module is causing problems or??
Click to expand...
Some, or most, of those DTCs may well be historical, clear them all, and rescan. Fingers crossed.
Mac.
 
Remember also that low charge or big voltage dips when cranking can upset ECUs and lead to stored DTCs as @PlasticMac noted above. The battery situation alone could cause all sorts of ghosts in the machine.

Could there be any charging / alternator issues leading to the apparent loss of battery condition (or even just a bad starter earth?).
 
Robin_Cox said:
Remember also that low charge or big voltage dips when cranking can upset ECUs and lead to stored DTCs as @PlasticMac noted above. The battery situation alone could cause all sorts of ghosts in the machine.

Could there be any charging / alternator issues leading to the apparent loss of battery condition (or even just a bad starter earth?).
Click to expand...
Another good point, I was told the alternator had checked out okay, but I will test it again to make sure. I'll also leave the battery connected from now on, and either charge it or boost it as necessary.

I've just tried different batteries in the key fobs and still no remote locking, so I think there could well be problem with CCCU.
 
Did the key fobs get paired back to the car after the battery replacement with a FRESH NEW battery. If not the remote will not work.....If the remotes are physically damaged they will not work.

Do not be too quick to condemn the CCCU

The A2 is different to other cars and you need to research items rather than jump in possibly making things worse. Even more important is not to bodge things.
 
audifan said:
Did the key fobs get paired back to the car after the battery replacement with a FRESH NEW battery. If not the remote will not work.....If the remotes are physically damaged they will not work.

Do not be too quick to condemn the CCCU

The A2 is different to other cars and you need to research items rather than jump in possibly making things worse. Even more important is not to bodge things.
Click to expand...
I've just taken over the car, so I don't know exactly what has and hasn't been done to it, but it is likely enough that the key fobs were not paired back to the car, that would make a lot of sense. I've seen the procedure for doing that on here somewhere, so will find it and add it to the list of jobs. I've got both keys and they look in good condition. Curiously they both had two batteries in, one CR2025 and one CR2016, when I thought they should have just one CR2032??

I won't condemn the CCCU, but I have got another one available to swap if it makes sense as I work my way through things.

I have been spending hours researching things on the forum, and gathering information, but the reason I am on here, is so that folks like your good self, who are kind enough to provide advice and feedback, can keep me on the right track.

I've got a lot to learn about A2's, and I am a bit daft, but also determined and I won't give up, I really don't like bodging things either, so don't worry about that :)

Thanks for your help
 
Thank you everybody for all the very good suggestions and pointers, it is very good of you all to take the time to help out. I'll go through all this again in the morning and make a to do list.

Cheers, Dave
 
DaveySprocket said:
I've just taken over the car, so I don't know exactly what has and hasn't been done to it, but it is likely enough that the key fobs were not paired back to the car, that would make a lot of sense. I've seen the procedure for doing that on here somewhere, so will find it and add it to the list of jobs. I've got both keys and they look in good condition. Curiously they both had two batteries in, one CR2025 and one CR2016, when I thought they should have just one CR2032??

I won't condemn the CCCU, but I have got another one available to swap if it makes sense as I work my way through things.

I have been spending hours researching things on the forum, and gathering information, but the reason I am on here, is so that folks like your good self, who are kind enough to provide advice and feedback, can keep me on the right track.

I've got a lot to learn about A2's, and I am a bit daft, but also determined and I won't give up, I really don't like bodging things either, so don't worry about that :)

Thanks for your help
Click to expand...
My keys randomly unpair themselves occasionally so definitely worth trying, though multiple batteries crammed in sounds odd 😂
 
Unfortunately it certainly looks like both keys are shagged. God only knows how somebody thought wedging two batteries in was a good idea. I seem to remember you can swap the chip in the keys around though, so I'll look at doing that with the other A2 spare key and see if that helps.

The battery did indeed go very flat last night as well, so definitely have a drain on it somewhere.
 
DaveySprocket said:
Unfortunately it certainly looks like both keys are shagged. God only knows how somebody thought wedging two batteries in was a good idea. I seem to remember you can swap the chip in the keys around though, so I'll look at doing that with the other A2 spare key and see if that helps.

The battery did indeed go very flat last night as well, so definitely have a drain on it somewhere.
Click to expand...
If you want to remove the immo chip, (tiny glass phial), easily, pop the half of the case which contains it in acetone over night, and it'll fall out in the morning. Use a small glass jar just big enough for it to fit.
Mac.
 
PlasticMac said:
If you want to remove the immo chip, (tiny glass phial), easily, pop the half of the case which contains it in acetone over night, and it'll fall out in the morning. Use a small glass jar just big enough for it to fit.
Mac.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that, I am just watching a YT of a guy doing it with a soldering iron.. And apparently you can use two batteries, but they must be two CR2016's..
 
Tom @2work has done a lot with keys recently and probably knows the screens of by heart. I am not at home ( hospital ) so would take me ages to try to remember the exact process.
 
DaveySprocket said:
Thanks for that, I am just watching a YT of a guy doing it with a soldering iron.. And apparently you can use two batteries, but they must be two CR2016's..
Click to expand...
Why not fit a single CR2032 and have done with it?
Pairing procedure is...
Open the car (using the key in the door lock), put key in ignition and turn on (no need to start engine) and wait until the car symbol light goes out (the car symbol with a key in it).

When that symbol has gone out, immediately turn off, withdraw the key and press the unlock button on the fob. The locks should cycle, telling you that the re-sync was successful.

If the locks don't cycle, then just repeat the procedure.

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
 
Jellybean said:
Why not fit a single CR2032 and have done with it?
Pairing procedure is...
Open the car (using the key in the door lock), put key in ignition and turn on (no need to start engine) and wait until the car symbol light goes out (the car symbol with a key in it).

When that symbol has gone out, immediately turn off, withdraw the key and press the unlock button on the fob. The locks should cycle, telling you that the re-sync was successful.

If the locks don't cycle, then just repeat the procedure.

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Yes I agree entirely about the batteries :)

I've been using this way to pair the keys, and it works on my Grey A2.

I guess there are more ways than one to skin a cat!

I've done it quite a few times now with no luck.

I have noticed though, that on the grey (Good) A2, if I unpair the key, the unpaired key still operates all the door locks, whereas on the dodgy Blue car it only operates the drivers lock. Not sure how significant this is, but it gives me a bit of hope that maybe the keys are not knackered, although a dodgy CCCU wouldn't be much more helpful.

I'm guessing I could swap CCCU's and keys over from the two cars to try out that theory, but I'm not certain it is as simple as that so I will have to do more research/reading.

Thanks anyway!
 
DaveySprocket said:
Yes I agree entirely about the batteries :)

I've been using this way to pair the keys, and it works on my Grey A2.

I guess there are more ways than one to skin a cat!

I've done it quite a few times now with no luck.

I have noticed though, that on the grey (Good) A2, if I unpair the key, the unpaired key still operates all the door locks, whereas on the dodgy Blue car it only operates the drivers lock. Not sure how significant this is, but it gives me a bit of hope that maybe the keys are not knackered, although a dodgy CCCU wouldn't be much more helpful.

I'm guessing I could swap CCCU's and keys over from the two cars to try out that theory, but I'm not certain it is as simple as that so I will have to do more research/reading.

Thanks anyway!
Click to expand...
Its the same way of pairing the key, the window steps are just unnecessary, its putting the key in and turning on the ignition that lets the car identify the immobilizer chip in the key and re-pair.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top