timmus
A2OC Donor
0020X should be correct, though I cannot say what value 'X' should be without knowing the full specification of your A2. Do you have a multifunction steering wheel, for instance..?
Cheers,
Tom
Today I.....
- Thread starter sco
- Start date
Cheers,
Tom
Thank!
Multifunction - no
Phone preparation - yes
BOSE and sub .. - yes
4 antenna amplifiers in the boot lid - yes
timmus
A2OC Donor
Sorry, I forgot that the RNS-D coding options are totally different to the Generation II stereos. Please ignore my previous post.
Your coding should be 00217.
The '7' on the end instructs the RNS-D system to communicate with a external antenna system, a CD changer and the instrument cluster display (DIS). If you don't have these options, the RNS-D unit may log a fault code, but it won't create any problems.
A lot of other features of RNS-D are switched on/off using adaption channels, not coding. For example, whether you have telephone preparation, multifunction steering wheel, etc.
Cheers,
Tom
Cenick
A2OC Donor
Today I swapped my front passenger door that looked like it had been hand painted (thanks to Hef for supplying the replacement!)
The door check strap was shot and had made a hole in the back of the speaker casing, so that was replaced with a refurb from Deproman.
Door now looks so much better and no clanking!
Thanks again to Hef, Deproman and A2Steve
Original door
New door
Also found this behind the stereo and have ripped it out
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The door check strap was shot and had made a hole in the back of the speaker casing, so that was replaced with a refurb from Deproman.
Door now looks so much better and no clanking!
Thanks again to Hef, Deproman and A2Steve
Original door
New door
Also found this behind the stereo and have ripped it out
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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timmus
A2OC Donor
I believe so, but it's not a retrofit I've ever researched in detail. Retrofitting RNS-E is easier, and it's a much, much better system.
A2Steve
A2OC Donor
I didn’t realise Hef hand painted doors ?
Cenick
A2OC Donor
I didn’t realise Hef hand painted doors
Hah I see what you mean Tom!
Just to make it clear Hef is not hand painting A2’s....afaik
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depronman
A2OC Donor
Today I swapped my front passenger door that looked like it had been hand painted (thanks to Hef!)
The door check strap was shot and had made a hole in the back of the speaker casing, so that was replaced with a refurb from Deproman.
Door now looks so much better and no clanking!
Thanks again to Hef, Deproman and A2Steve
Original door
New door
Also found this behind the stereo and have ripped it out
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What is the think you ripped out ?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Cenick
A2OC Donor
Just part of the retaining clip, it’s all sound and ok
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Rusty911
A2OC Donor
Today I replaced the thermostat and temp sender on the Devon car (TDi): temp gauge now goes up to 90 and stays there as opposed to 60'ish, suddenly dropping, suddenly rising a bit, then dropping etc.
Also uploaded full VCDS onto my trusty old lap-top and gave it a try. Lots of lovely fault codes (as expected) although majority cleared away alright.
Coded two 2nd hand remotes (thanks @Clackers ) to the car which went perfectly, all down to @Birchall 's excellent guide. Was amazed when I pressed the remote button and it worked! Not many things have gone so well on this refurb.
Also uploaded full VCDS onto my trusty old lap-top and gave it a try. Lots of lovely fault codes (as expected) although majority cleared away alright.
Coded two 2nd hand remotes (thanks @Clackers ) to the car which went perfectly, all down to @Birchall 's excellent guide. Was amazed when I pressed the remote button and it worked! Not many things have gone so well on this refurb.
Could I ask what Thermostat and Temp Sender you went with? Would be good to know as they are working correctly and so many seem not to?
Rusty911
A2OC Donor
Certainly, the temp sender was a Febi Bilstein unit from here. I wanted a big brand for this as could see that any inaccuracy could affect engine running as well as temp gauge readings. Pretty O.K. service, took about four days to arrive but good comms.
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Thermostat was an Intermotor. I Googled around this and Intermotor actually have a pretty good name. I've never had a problem with their stuff and it used to be the go-to name back in the day of points and condensors (ask an old person, they'll tell you what these are kids). I also took the view that a thermostat is an incredibly low-tech thing with age / corrosion being main cause of failure. Be aware it comes with a variety of O-rings so be careful to rescue the old one for comparison purposes. Good seller, item arrived within three days I think.
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Temp gauge now rock solid and car warmed up much quicker (judging not by the gauge but by heater outlet temps, albeit using a completely un-calibrated hand as a reference).
Therefore concluded as is normal for this car, if there was an option for one or both things to have faults, it will be both
In fact it managed to score an impressive failure rating of three out of two: I had taken the under-tray off so I could capture the coolant effectively. Successfully carried out the obligatory 'drop the O-ring' and 'drop the U-clip' procedures. In grubbing around the back of the gearbox looking for these (and very much enjoying the whole experience, what with it being perfectly clean and all), noticed the driveshaft heat-shield was loose and rubbing on the gaiter. Took that off, removed the anti-crush spacers (that had fretted loose due to tiny contact areas), and replaced with dinner-plate sized washers. Another job done.
A quick mention on both jobs:
Temp sender: I removed the engine cover, turbo pipe and the bracket that holds various wires next to the sender (one 10mm nut). After many goes trying to pull the sender plug off but not being able to squeeze the retaining clip hard enough whilst levering the plug, I removed the sender still attached to the wiring and then pulled the plug. Obviously you don't need to do this the other way. I 'glued' the O-ring to the sender with rubber grease after it fell off the first time. How I chuckled. Put a rag under where you're attempting to fit the U-clip: the slots aren't easy to see (at my age), and it's very easy to misjudge it and have it drop down in all of the cables and hoses around here. If you didn't want to drain the cooling system, get the new sender ready (with O-ring 'glued' on), and you'd be able to switch them in a few seconds and barely loose any coolant.
Thermostat: obviously you'll be draining the whole system, which you just do by pulling the thermostat hose off. Be aware that when you pull the thermostat itself out after removing the housing, another lot of coolant will rush out. Before you start, have a look at the two bolts that hold the housing on. The upper one is easy enough, but the lower one is very deceptive: access looks easy, but there's actually very little room to work. I got away with it with a combination of two 10mm spanners and one 5mm Allen key (mine had Allen hexes in the centre). If you Google around this on here you'll see people have bought special socket-holders that do the job nicely. I found though that by using two makes / ages of combination spanners and the Allen, I was able to do the job just fine, just took a while to get it to spin undone, and then a while to tweak it up fully. I remcommend you have a dress rehearsal by trying to loosen the bolt before you drain the system. If you need another tool, nothing lost, you've not drained the system down. If you can undo it, say, half a turn, you're going to be fine and can carry on. Also, be aware it initially looks as though the housing won't clear the alternator bracket casting: it will, it just needs a wiggle.
Finally: don't forget to bleed the cooling system if you did drain it: there's a Crossed-Head plastic screw near the radiator top on the right hand side as you lean into the engine bay: crack this after filling the system as far as you can. You'll hear air coming out and suddenly stop. Do this again after you've run the car up. Note: put interior heater to full temp - fan off, as this allows any air bubbles in that area to be expelled.
Finally, if you have a Webasto (like me), there's a bleed screw right at the back of the unit when viewed from front of car. Look at the brake fluid reservoir, and it's tucked to the left of that. I've got usefully slim hands / fingers, so I can reach down there (just) with a finger from each hand just touching the screw. It's heavily knurled and about the size of a penny coin so quite easy to turn. The downside is I had to completely remove mine before it started bleeding, which was then a fiddle to put back in: especially as the engine was running at the time.
Check your coolant level a few times over next week or so, esp after first couple of drives. If you're mixing up coolant from a concentrate, use distilled water for the mix: it's unbelievably cheap, leaves you a useful container for carrying pre-mixed screen-wash (or gin, or whatever) and doesn't contain the impurities that tap water does.
For reference, I'll tidy this post up and dump it in the Bale / Break thread for reference as this thread moves so fast things quickly get buried.
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Rusty911
A2OC Donor
Cruise control in place
And it works fine, I really appreciate this function.
Here is under work:
View attachment 64404
Hey that's great: delighted that's gone in and, I guess, you coded it in O.K.?
Joga
A2OC Donor
Yes thanks, it was very easy (should be noted I have a full VCDS, I have no experience how Lite would work).
Rusty911
A2OC Donor
Just fired up mini-DIS as per this thread here so thanks to the contributors to this:
Best free mod so far by far! Literally took two minutes.
I'm not sure where it's got the MPG from as it's not been started since I did it, so imagine this is over the last few weeks / months. Either way, it's not at all representative as all the car's done is sit in my workshop being warmed up (as above), moved about on the drive, one MOT (more idling) and about three trips locally.
I simply changed the last digit from zero to five as per the thread. It already had correct code for UK car (therefore I guess MPG) and the smaller tank. Therefore with my UK TDi with 34 litre tank and mini-DIS enabled my code went from 09430 to 09435.
In theory, as I drive off it'll turn into an instantaneous reading. Apols for dust / dog hairs etc. Must put my glasses on when detailing ?
Naturally I'm now on a mission to get that number as high as I can whilst we have the warm weather! I'm only going to drive downhill.
Fuel consumption on small DIS
Today i tried to add fuel consumption line in my small DIS and it worked! 2001 AMF. Thanks to @bono05 for this information. You need to change code in [17] - Instrument Cluster. Need to change last digit to 5. But question is what this change does to a2 besides adding fuel line in DIS? In...
www.a2oc.net
Best free mod so far by far! Literally took two minutes.
I'm not sure where it's got the MPG from as it's not been started since I did it, so imagine this is over the last few weeks / months. Either way, it's not at all representative as all the car's done is sit in my workshop being warmed up (as above), moved about on the drive, one MOT (more idling) and about three trips locally.
I simply changed the last digit from zero to five as per the thread. It already had correct code for UK car (therefore I guess MPG) and the smaller tank. Therefore with my UK TDi with 34 litre tank and mini-DIS enabled my code went from 09430 to 09435.
In theory, as I drive off it'll turn into an instantaneous reading. Apols for dust / dog hairs etc. Must put my glasses on when detailing ?
Naturally I'm now on a mission to get that number as high as I can whilst we have the warm weather! I'm only going to drive downhill.
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