A 2nd A2 for me - project FSI

You asked in post 11:

"Also there is nothing connected to sender on the gearbox which is mounted just above the right hand driveshaft exit. It looks like nothing has been connected there for a while as the contacts are green and it has several mm of grit in the bottom of it. Looking around, there's no wires dangling, nothing to connect to it. Was there ever?"

I also have a 52 plate FSI so glad to help. Do you mean this?

SAM_3955.JPG


SAM_3957.JPG


No idea what it is, nothing in and if this is what you mean as you can see no wires attached.

If I am in the wrong ball park given more direction I will look again.

Hope this helps.

Andy
 
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Andy, Paul, yes that’s the part. Thanks.
Vorsprung dT: I appreciate that, thanks. Hopefully this project will be a keeper but I’ve not “bonded” with it yet like I have with my TDI90 so I’m comfortable with trying the injector service option given the cost saving.


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Vorsprung dT: I appreciate that, thanks. Hopefully this project will be a keeper but I’ve not “bonded” with it yet like I have with my TDI90 so I’m comfortable with trying the injector service option given the cost saving.


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Wait until you have it running right you'll bond then, from rest it will pull smooth and very eagerly even on a light throttle almost as if it's a turbo.
 
Thanks fbi, Keith and Nige.
It sounds like at least one of the injector service companies will renew the teflon seals so that should be that sorted.
For removing the injectors, I've found Laser Tools 5069, instructions here:
https://www.lasertools.co.uk/items/PDF/Products/5069_Instructions.pdf
The tool set is £106 on eBay. This is rather steep but less than a new injector (eBay £163).

It looks to me like the extractor part of the tool (part A with the pivoted jaws) actually bears on the plastic part - this is a pic of a new injector:
View attachment 43532
and the drawing in the workshop manual:
View attachment 43533
and the tools:View attachment 43534

I am minded to have a crack at making parts A and C myself. Am I making a meal out of this? Should I just grab hold of the injectors and pull, or is that just going to end in tears?
Thanks in advance,
Matt
I have that tool Matt, where in the world are you?

I have to say I've changed injectors on 2 x FSI's and they have come out pretty easy, admittedly with the tool, but not a lot of force required.
 
I have that tool Matt, where in the world are you?

I have to say I've changed injectors on 2 x FSI's and they have come out pretty easy, admittedly with the tool, but not a lot of force required.

I’m in St.Albans, Herts - it should say in my profile. Thanks very much for the thought if you were going to offer to lend it, but I’ve ordered a cheaper one for £60 delivered just this morning, should be here Friday but I’ve a pretty full weekend coming up so it’s not clear if I’ll get the opportunity to use it.
Cheers,
Matt


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Alcantara repair:
I had been under the impression that Alcantara was some sort of posh hide, like suede only from some exotic land mammal like a llama or antelope. It isn't, it's man-made, a sort of very short tuft fleece. My driver's seat which is mushroom-colour leather and Alcantara has worn through in the central part and I'd like to repair it on the cheap. Has anyone attempted to remove the seat base covers and sew in new sections of Alcantara? Or should I just take it to a local vehicle upholster?

Matt
Noticed this on Audi Tradition, may be of interest.

https://trshop.audi.de/konakart/SelectCat.do?catId=1424&prodsFound=-1&category=Fabrics

Andy
 
Thanks Andy, that’s a great find. I wonder which shade my seats are, if any! I’ll use google translate when I’ve got a 10 minutes and see if I can figure it out.

Injector news: the injectors came out, but not how I had intended. Whilst awaiting the extractor tool, last Wednesday night I had half an hour and thought I’d remove the injector retaining brackets and rings ready for when the tool arrived. Back in July when I removed the manifold one of the brass spacer tubes had stuck on its injector, the other three stayed with the manifold. I tried pulling the spacer off its injector. Guess what: the injector came out with it. I tried pulling the others with my fingers and with some gentle wiggling they all came out in under a minute (the tool has since arrived and probably will go back to the supplier unused)
On Thursday I sent the injectors off to Mr Injector in Bury St Edmunds. Steve Biggs provided an excellent service, turned them round and they were back in the post on Friday night. He phoned me to say they weren’t too bad, he has changed the filter baskets and measured the flow before and after cleaning with 9% improvement on the worst one, and now the set are within 2% of each other. He also changes the Teflon seals as part of the service which is the main reason I went with him. I received them back today, with a comprehensive report of the measurements; they are ready to go back in.

Yesterday I had another hour free so whilst the thermostat housing was out I thought I’d clean and grease the gear linkage and try and find out why it was sloppier than the TDI. The sloppiness was easy: the nut was loose on the selector shaft holding the shaft rotator selector on the splines. I took it off to check for wear but it was OK. I also disconnected the gear cables, pulled back the boots and ran some oil into the cables. At the gear lever end I pulled up the outer gaitor then then the inner rubber one which is holed and disintegrating just like the TDI, dropping little rubber crumbs into the knuckle at the bottom of the gear lever. I cleaned it all out and applied WD40 then some grease.
I reset the cables with the gear lever locked using the 2 drillings provided and an old cutdown Pozi screwdriver I keep for the purpose then back in the engine bay tried to lock the gear selector into 2nd using the locking lever on the selector tower but it wouldn’t drop into the locked position so I put it in 2nd and did the best I could with the cable adjustment. Without driving, it certainly seems ok.

The (abridged) plan now is:
Fit new death pipe,
Refit thermostat housing and hoses, fit new coolant pump and the timing belts kit, refit manifolds and everything else removed to access them, put the engine back on its mountings and refill coolant.

I’ve read the workshop manual method for refilling the coolant. It sounds a bit more complicated than it needs to be, with some vacuum contraption. What’s the accepted method?

All the best,
Matt


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So not wanting to be too negative, but I had 1 bad injector, they were sent away for cleaning and came back x% within each other. It was still knackered when refitted to the engine.

From my own personal experience, I'd strongly recommend just fitting a brand new injector and send only 3 known good ones away for cleaning. Considering the strip-down involved if you start it back up and it's still misfiring.... Which is what I had to do in the end. It was soul destroying!
 
Thanks for that but it’s too late now, the injectors aren’t marked to be able to tell them apart, and I sent off and got back all 4. Fingers crossed then. It is a bit of a kerfuffle to get to the injectors.
Matt


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Sorry to hijack this thread, but I'm sure Biggdog had an input somewhere....the Actuator arm fits into an egg shaped 'thing', my local garage have managed to shatter this egg shaped item....is it replacable, or is it total intake replacement?
Thanks in advance for any help!
 
Sorry to hear that Clackers.
I don’t think you can get it as a separate part.
See https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+a2/a2/2002-248/1/133-133005/

When I took the potentiometer off it wasn’t clear how it connects to the flap shaft.

By the way, I would be interested to know if anyone has taken the screws out of the flaps and removed the flap shaft altogether for proper cleaning. It looks like there’s 8 mini metal ‘core plugs’ in the top of the lower intake manifold that were fitted at the factory after the flap screws were inserted. There is also a spring/valve/vent facing the head in the middle of the manifold. If you pull and push on it then the flap shaft gets tighter or looser. Anyone know the function of this?

Quick update: Death pipe is changed. You have to fit the big c-clip to lock it to the thermostat housing BEFORE fitting the death pipe to the back of the coolant pump. Coolant pump and rear timing belt cover are back in. The camshaft timing belt is in and tensioned, had to wire the tensioner in the retracted position during tensioner retaining screw insertion.
Matt



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I can't seem to see the elliptical plastic bit on the exploded view, so no doubt it comes as part of the inlet manifold (I'm sure I've read this before somewhere, I also seem to remember seeing a hand drawn picture of the part that someone did!!)
Damn it!
Andy
 
Andy, There’s one on eBay for “only” £250 atm, meant to be fully working.
Matt


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Ha ha ha ha ha....he can keep it for that much! Fortunately i've got one off my last breaker, but wondered if you could just place the egg bit!
Ho hum...
 
I can't seem to see the elliptical plastic bit on the exploded view, so no doubt it comes as part of the inlet manifold (I'm sure I've read this before somewhere, I also seem to remember seeing a hand drawn picture of the part that someone did!!)
Damn it!
Andy
I too remember the post with the hand drawn sketch, which is also being elusive for me, but did come across this thread that is highly connected.

https://www.a2oc.net/community/inde...onnects-to-the-vac-unit.19215/#js-post-145862

Andy
 
That's the one....good job I took the one off my breaker.
Andy
To wrap this then so as not to interrupt BiggDogg's thread anymore.

It appears that this small plastic pear shaped part, which must cost pennies to make, is part of the lower inlet manifold and not available separately. If it breaks the only repair option is purchase a lower inlet manifold.....

Either, New from Audi at ~£450
Or, Used at ~£250

DIabolical, Audi should be ashamed.

By providing your garage with a spare from your breaker it has cost you indirectly £250. I would not be pleased.

Andy
 
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