A2 fsi manifold flap operation

M

mrcgibb

Member
Hello my 1.6 has lost about 50nm in toruqe. The kick about 3k doesnt happen and it's going through more fuel. The flap actuator is working in that when car starts it pulls up I assume to close the flap. However I am thinking the flap solidoid might be bad and it's not opening the flap above 3k. Would that explain the lack of power. I did notice before this happened that it would would be a very bad jerk at around 3k so I am hopping it's just the solidoid that's gone bad.
 
Hi,

Thought I would reply, not to to give any knowledgeable answer to your question, more to give your post a bump as nobody has replied - us pitied FSI owners have to stick together!

Your description of your flap issue took me back several years to my flap FSI problem. Let me explain but it might provoke more questions. For a period of 4 years after I bought mine in 2010 I also experienced a quite definite boost in power at 3000rpm, not roughly as you describe but more like something just cut in to give more power, I just thought it normal and a characteristic of the the engine. Then in 2014 the EML came on and the boost at 3000rpm disappeared. The car ran fine just a bit flat but a touch restrained so I put up with it for 3 years with the EML permanently on. Then the death pipe split and forced my hand. Good sense and easier to deal with death pipe and flap issue together, as well as new cambelt and water pump which was overdue. Tony at A2Cars did the work so I am confident the job was done correctly. Now the point of my story, the car is reborn, drives fantastic but NO noticeable boost in power at 3000rpm??????, just smooth through the rev range. Turns out my issue was the vacuum unit.

Hope this might help in some way.

Andy
 
Just because the arm is moving does not mean that the flaps are opening.

I have seen two FSI flap manifolds with missing flaps (which is quite scary because the only place they can go is into the cylinder!!

I am not saying that this is your problem, just that it can happen.

As for the solenoid, if that was the problem the arm would not move (since the solenoid moves the arm).

I am surprised that the engine management light is not on?

A scan with VCDS might show something?

Steve B
 
when i bought my FSI it was hugely down on power. The plastic arm on the flap actuator had snapped low down, this threw up the set point error code, you don't have that so i guess yours is fine, but its worth a check. also before i changed the actuator and inlet manifold i did the simple stuff and this improved things massively in terms of power. the thing which made the biggest difference and was cheapest was changing the fuel filter. check this if its not been done. when i did eventually change the manifold there were a few problems with it internally and replacement seemed the only option. this weekend i seem to have improved the engine performance again with a really easy fix, check this too. the small rubber pipes on the left of the engine just behind the timing belt cover. mine had perished, didin't look split but after a good wrapping with self amalgamating silicone tape the engine runs much better and smoother. the pipe at the rear was my issue, it just pulls off. you'll need to disconnect the air inlet pipe going to the MAF to get to it. just a few ideas to check simple stuff. hope it helps
 
If the car detects that there's a flap problem it goes into homogenous mode, it doesn't stay in stratified mode, so you should actually see an increase in torque up to 3k. The German forum has a fairly detailed thread full of folks that mapped the stratified mode out.

I can always tell when the car gives up on stratified mode, it always runs so much better.

With that in mind, you might have something else wrong with yours worth investigating?
 
Thanks guys. I have ordered replacement vacuum pipes to replace the old ones. Without removing the manifold there is no way of telling if the flaps are still moving? I can freely move the plastic rod and can set it turn the metal mechanism.
I wonder if the egr valve maybe stuck would affect performance? But there is no egr fault light.
Only fault is map sensor or barometric circuit range performance. As I say I have had the map sensor changed and the ecu. When I bought the car the garage had covered up the engine fault light on the dash with black silicon :(
 
rippling said:
Thanks guys. I have ordered replacement vacuum pipes to replace the old ones. Without removing the manifold there is no way of telling if the flaps are still moving? I can freely move the plastic rod and can set it turn the metal mechanism.
I wonder if the egr valve maybe stuck would affect performance? But there is no egr fault light.
Only fault is map sensor or barometric circuit range performance. As I say I have had the map sensor changed and the ecu. When I bought the car the garage had covered up the engine fault light on the dash with black silicon :(
Click to expand...

I dunno if you’ll still hear a click as the flaps hit the upper end of their travel when you manipulate them manually? I think the most common thing to go is the plastic linkage so if that’s all still in one piece then there’s a good chance the flaps are moving. Also if you take off the vacuum line - check there’s actually a rush of air, there should always be vacuum in that line, then put your finger over the outlet on the actuator with the flap arm pulled all the way up, it should only sink back a little bit. So you block the actuator with the arm fully actuated then it should only move about a cm back then drop when you let go.
 
Oh no!!
image.jpeg
image.jpg

Have I now been hit by the curse of the fsi.
I've had a quick look and the plastic rod from the vacuum seems ok, not broken. It moves up and down quite freely and if I remove the rubber tubing and place my finger over the outlet the rod stays up and drops suddenly when I remove it.
If I rev the engine with everything connected there is no movement. Is this the solenoid or something more sinister.
 
Sopwith Pup said:
Oh no!!
View attachment 42824View attachment 42825
Have I now been hit by the curse of the fsi.
I've had a quick look and the plastic rod from the vacuum seems ok, not broken. It moves up and down quite freely and if I remove the rubber tubing and place my finger over the outlet the rod stays up and drops suddenly when I remove it.
If I rev the engine with everything connected there is no movement. Is this the solenoid or something more sinister.
Click to expand...
Is it running ok? If it is, it may be a sort when you have time/money/inclination thing. I've had mine 36 months now and the EML has only been off for about 2 of them.
Mine is the set point one, plus cat. Engine breather was causing issues too and now has a temp fix.
She is going in for a week whilst I'm on holiday to see if they can sort the flaps and having a new exhaust and cats in October.
In the meantime though, she has just driven 700 miles to Wales and back without missing a beat
 
Yes she's running as smooth as silk. I'm keeping a note of mileage at moment so I can check mpg. Next MOT in March so I have time to sort it out although after reading Birchall's comment on this thread on Aug 8th I was reaching for a defibrillator!!!!
 
Ok the car seems to hit rev limit at 5 k then get cylinder Miss fire. I started seafoam into the intake to clean out the manifold. Strange sometimes I put my foot down and it tears your face off other times it's you could go out and push. I have new Bosch super 4 coming on monday. I am sure it's a small thing. It's only done 54k
 
If I had the money yes, just now I don't and I have other priorities. But it would be nice to have the car run properly. I am sure the 1.6 should not feel sluggish
 
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