yes you need to split both the lower ball joint, as this allows enough outward movement of the hub to allow the drive shaft inner CV to be removed from the gearbox driveshaft flange. I just loosen the nut of the ball joint all the way, then oil it and replace by a couple of thread only, then insert a bar to try to force the joint apart, with this pressure maintained hit the side of the joint with an hammer, normally one sharp blow is all this is needed to shock the tapper free.
I make my own alignment tool from a piece of aluminium bar (I have a little Boxford metal turning centre lathe), I always do this as the home made tool is much more precise than the alignment tool sets that you can buy, it makes getting the box back on Sooooo much easier when the spinner is aligned spot on, remember to leave the box in 5 gear so you can rotate the drive shaft flange to rotate the gearbox input shaft as even with a correctly centred spinner plate the splines can still meet and not engage without a little rotation (they meet tooth to tooth, as against tooth to value)
I only ever fit LUK clitch kits, my first TDI A2 had 272,200 miles on the original LUK clutch and still friction material was remaining, the release bearing cried enough due to worn out pivot bolt and cross arm.
Best of luck wit the clutch swap
Cheers,
Paul