Adding additional keys- including the new shape key

Hi

I thought a summary of the various options might help.


To re-pair a key that has stopped unlocking / locking remotely.

This one is an easy one.
Just switch on the ignition and then press the unlock button on the key that has stopped working (as long as the battery is not flat in the key fob)
Switch off the ignition, remove the key and it should now operate the door locks,

(you can use one key in the ignition and re-pair a different key if you want, you don't have to re-pair the key in the ignition if that one is already ok)


To add an additional key that has never been paired to the car before.
Firstly ensure that you have bought a key that has the same part number as the one you already have.
You can get a blade cut (there are even people on eBay that can provide you with a new key blade if you just end them a photo of the original blade in the key you already have)
I think that many key cutters can do this for you too. (Timsons and the like)
You can pair the remote operation on the new./secondhand key, but ideally you will need VCDS (there is a method that is supposed to work that involves putting the key in the door lock, but to be honest I have tried this several times and never succeeded).

To pair the remote function on a key that has not been paired before
(The following is done after you have selected control function 46 "CCCU" in the VCDS screen and clicked on adaption)


"Enter channel "21" and click on [Read]

This is supposed to display the number of currently stored remotes in "Stored Value".
- Mine always displayed "0" as I think all A2s do?

The "New Value" field is used to indicate the POSITION of the key (out of the 4 positions) NOT the number of keys you want to code,
So instead of following the Ross Tech instructions, try this,
You use the "up/down" arrow to move to the position you want the key to be in (of the 4 possible positions) and then (without clicking test or save or anything) press the unlock button on the key that you want to pair into that position (you might have to hold the unlock down a few seconds, but it is normally quite quick), the field near the top right will change from "initialising" to "Recognised" then click on "save".
You have now paired the first key.
Now repeat this for each key you have (changing the position each time) remembering to save after you get the "recognised" message.

So I would recommend the following, click on the up arrow to get the "1", the field will show "adjustment", press the unlock on the key you want to pair first and the field will change to "recognised" click on save and then you have now paired the first key. Then use the up arrow to move to "2" and then press the unlock button on the second key that you want to pair, when that changes to "recognised" you save that and then repeat for "3" and "4" saving each time. (if you want 4 keys that is!!)

You will now have keys that all work your remote locking.

This process will also work for the new shape keys if you have a CCCU that has a part number that ends in "AF" and a new shape key that has a part number that ends in 220 K. I will be trying to find out which other CCCUs these keys will pair to, but for now I can only guarantee the "AF" unit will pair with a 220 K key (do not buy any other keys, only the 220 K has been proven to work.

The biggest problem you have now is that when you try and use the new key the engine will cut out almost instantly and you will get the flashing "immobiliser" icon.
That is because the final step is to fit a new immobiliser chip and code that to the car. (if you have an old working key that you no longer want to use you can TRY and remove the chip from that and replace it in the new key, but they are well glued in and they are a fragile glass tube. But I have done this a few times and so it can be done. The chip is inside the "key" end of the fob and you will have to lift off the Audi rings to get at the screw that holds it together.

If you can't swap the chip for whatever reason your options are limited. You can take it to Audi to get them to pair the chip (at a large cost). Or you can ask on here if there is anyone local that has the right cable to rad your instrument cluster and get the all important login code to enable you to use VCDS to reprogram a new chip.


I will post a link on this "how to" later, to show how to pair a new immobiliser chip with VCDS once you have your login code.

Steve B
 
So... today arrived a used key that i have ordered a while ago....
i have got a galleto 1260 cable and i want someone to tell me with what program i can read my SC from my instrument cluster!!!!
a freeware if it's possible.

Kind regards
Nick
 
So... today arrived a used key that i have ordered a while ago....
i have got a galleto 1260 cable and i want someone to tell me with what program i can read my SC from my instrument cluster!!!!
a freeware if it's possible.

Kind regards
Nick
Hello Nick
Yes, after a lot of reading I have ordered a new key with the remote PCB and the immobilizer chip included.
I will have the same need of reading my cluster to program the immobilizer too.
Thanks
 
Hello again
I went to my Audi official dealer and I gave this part number 8E0 837 220 K and they told me that is no more available and the new code for this one is the Q ending!!!!
Someone tried the one with Q prefix?
Kind regards
Nick
 
..... what program i can read my SC from my instrument cluster!!!! ....

....I will have the same need of reading my cluster to program the immobilizer too. ...

I am in the same boat and briefly did research some time ago. A simple place to start is to put 'Commander' into the forum search box which will quickly reveal the answer to your question, worth reading. The answer, on here at least, is the software VAG Commander 1.4 and a K-Can cable, but a post in the search results comments the VCDS cable will work with Commnader to retrieve the SKC.

I have dragged my feet hoping to meet a member already having the kit and knowledge to retrieve my SKC. Ignoring the expense of buying Commander it does seem a waste for something to be that I will only use once. I am also worried about using software capable of killing my A2 from a market rife with unstable and fraudulent software. I will do some more research.

Andy
 
Hello again
Has anyone found the VAG commander software to download, that works?
I have tried several websites and they were dead ends or written in a so poor english, I didn't dare downloading.
I have received my new key and would like to program it urgently.
Thanks
 
Hello again
Has anyone found the VAG commander software to download, that works?
I have tried several websites and they were dead ends or written in a so poor english, I didn't dare downloading.
I have received my new key and would like to program it urgently.
Thanks

If you find a working link somewhere pm me please ;)
Regards
Nick
 
If you find a working link somewhere pm me please ;)
Regards
Nick

There looks to be a valid link here (I'm not registered so haven't tested it out):
 
thanks for answer!!!
i am member so i am checking it out now and i will inform the forum ;)

Regards
Nick

it does not let me to download it :(
 
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Hi, I have only one key for my A2 and it works fine most of the time but every 7/8 uses it will not unlock the car remotely but if I unlock the car manually and turn the ignition on it works fine...... for a while !

I don't know if this is just a battery that's beginning to fail but I'm wary of even opening the key to replace it in case I damage something and then be without a key...so I'm looking to purchase a key from the "wigankey" guy (when he has stock) mentioned in posts here and programme it when he has more stock (are there any other suppliers ? ).

I have access to a full version of VCDS VER 20.4 and a HEX-USB+CAN original cable from Ross-Tech, as mentioned I have read the posts relating to this and would like to check that I have this right because I have never used VCDS before and don't want to mess this up.

So is this how I should go about it-

1, Get a pin code from the car using VAG - COMMANDER (I have downloaded it from the link a couple of posts above)...does that work ok steve_c ?

2, Then I need to follow the excellent guide by Birchall at the start of this post ?

Thanks.
 
I would start by replacing the battery that you have in the current fob. They are the symptoms of a failing fob battery.
Steve B
 
Ok Steve B I will do that (nervously lol)

Am I on track with the process for coding another key ?

Thanks
 
Ok Steve B I will do that (nervously lol)

Am I on track with the process for coding another key ?

Thanks
Yes, the PIN code will probably be called “login” but you are on track by the look of it.

Steve B
 
Little update , I downloaded the commander software from the link above but it has no installation instructions (or how to use it) and I'm not sure if it works...can anyone help with this please ?

I'd like to get the pin code in preparation for a spare key (when I can find one) and hopefully be able to help other members in the future.

Thanks
 
This process will also work for the new shape keys if you have a CCCU that has a part number that ends in "AF" and a new shape key that has a part number that ends in 220 K. I will be trying to find out which other CCCUs these keys will pair to, but for now I can only guarantee the "AF" unit will pair with a 220 K key (do not buy any other keys, only the 220 K has been proven to work.
Steve B

I can confirm it’s not just the new style 220 K key that pairs to an AF CCCU.

I have just paired an 8E0 837 220 E key to my AF CCCU. It works perfectly, all 3 buttons act as they should so very happy as they are easier to locate on an auction site than the K variant.

image.jpg

image.jpg

Stay safe everyone!

Kind regards,

Tom
 
I can confirm it’s not just the new style 220 K key that pairs to an AF CCCU.

I have just paired an 8E0 837 220 E key to my AF CCCU. It works perfectly, all 3 buttons act as they should so very happy as they are easier to locate on an auction site than the K variant.

View attachment 64038
View attachment 64039
Stay safe everyone!

Kind regards,

Tom
Great findings.
Hmm, I have an AC CCCU, instead of AF, will that work equally well for a 220K and or 220E key?
 
That is something I really don’t know and couldn’t answer without having an AC CCCU here. Not actually come across an AC variant yet.

I only found this out by swapping over my failing P CCCU earlier to the AF CCCU from my old A2.

Just adding to the great work @Birchall conducted a few years ago.

I’m sure @timmus maybe able to assist with your answer but it could just be trial and error like I done earlier.

I had the key from either an A4 or A6 from a few years ago. The battery still worked which was a bonus but will certainly was changing that in due course.

now to attempt to remove the immobiliser chip from one of my keys without breaking it to put in the new 220 E key.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
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Managed to get the immobiliser chip out without damaging it. That really was a first as I have done the only once before and ended up breaking the one and only chip I had.

So I can now open and close the A2 with the 220E key (AF CCCU) and sort of start it. The original style key doesn’t really fit the newer style fob which is a shame but nothing that can’t be solved fairly quickly.

I have to use the original key blade whilst holding the new 220E fob next to it to get the A2 to start. It’s a step forward but now need a new key let that correctly fits inside the new style fob.

I started this with having two original keys so nothing that’s stopping me popping out for essentials.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
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