Adding additional keys- including the new shape key

Hi

I thought a summary of the various options might help.


To re-pair a key that has stopped unlocking / locking remotely.
This one is an easy one.
Just switch on the ignition and then press the unlock button on the key that has stopped working (as long as the battery is not flat in the key fob)
Switch off the ignition, remove the key and it should now operate the door locks,

(you can use one key in the ignition and re-pair a different key if you want, you don't have to re-pair the key in the ignition if that one is already ok)


To add an additional key that has never been paired to the car before.
Firstly ensure that you have bought a key that has the same part number as the one you already have.
You can get a blade cut (there are even people on eBay that can provide you with a new key blade if you just end them a photo of the original blade in the key you already have)
I think that many key cutters can do this for you too. (Timsons and the like)
You can pair the remote operation on the new./secondhand key, but ideally you will need VCDS (there is a method that is supposed to work that involves putting the key in the door lock, but to be honest I have tried this several times and never succeeded).

To pair the remote function on a key that has not been paired before
(The following is done after you have selected control function 46 "CCCU" in the VCDS screen and clicked on adaption)


"Enter channel "21" and click on [Read]

This is supposed to display the number of currently stored remotes in "Stored Value". - Mine always displayed "0" as I think all A2s do?

The "New Value" field is used to indicate the POSITION of the key (out of the 4 positions) NOT the number of keys you want to code,
So instead of following the Ross Tech instructions, try this,
You use the "up/down" arrow to move to the position you want the key to be in (of the 4 possible positions) and then (without clicking test or save or anything) press the unlock button on the key that you want to pair into that position (you might have to hold the unlock down a few seconds, but it is normally quite quick), the field near the top right will change from "initialising" to "Recognised" then click on "save".
You have now paired the first key.
Now repeat this for each key you have (changing the position each time) remembering to save after you get the "recognised" message.

So I would recommend the following, click on the up arrow to get the "1", the field will show "adjustment", press the unlock on the key you want to pair first and the field will change to "recognised" click on save and then you have now paired the first key. Then use the up arrow to move to "2" and then press the unlock button on the second key that you want to pair, when that changes to "recognised" you save that and then repeat for "3" and "4" saving each time. (if you want 4 keys that is!!)

You will now have keys that all work your remote locking.

This process will also work for the new shape keys if you have a CCCU that has a part number that ends in "AF" and a new shape key that has a part number that ends in 220 K. I will be trying to find out which other CCCUs these keys will pair to, but for now I can only guarantee the "AF" unit will pair with a 220 K key (do not buy any other keys, only the 220 K has been proven to work.

The biggest problem you have now is that when you try and use the new key the engine will cut out almost instantly and you will get the flashing "immobiliser" icon.
That is because the final step is to fit a new immobiliser chip and code that to the car. (if you have an old working key that you no longer want to use you can TRY and remove the chip from that and replace it in the new key, but they are well glued in and they are a fragile glass tube. But I have done this a few times and so it can be done. The chip is inside the "key" end of the fob and you will have to lift off the Audi rings to get at the screw that holds it together.

If you can't swap the chip for whatever reason your options are limited. You can take it to Audi to get them to pair the chip (at a large cost). Or you can ask on here if there is anyone local that has the right cable to rad your instrument cluster and get the all important login code to enable you to use VCDS to reprogram a new chip.


I will post a link on this "how to" later, to show how to pair a new immobiliser chip with VCDS once you have your login code.

Steve B
 
Click to expand...
Should the middle boot release button actually do anything, none of my 3 coded fobs do anything when pressing middle button (part no. -D )
 
just unlocks but theres a guy on facebook ive been watching adding springs to the damping struts so it does open from the key
 
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10216165941212872
Automatic trunk open SUCCESS!!! ????
I used this parts :
Springs-from Hennlich.com

(16x51x8 blue) there you can find your country dealer for springs or in other company
Gas struts(gas springs)-part number 23380
500 mm L, 500 Nm, 205 l
8 washers 0.5mm (4 for leftside and 4 for right side)
IF SOMEONE CAN'T FIND THE SPRINGS, I CAN ORDER AND SHIP TO EVERYONE(4 SPRINGS +8 WASHERS) . THE PRICE WILL BE 30-35 € plus shipping (Orders only on private message)
IF YOUR ORIGINAL GAS STRUTS WORKS LIKE NEW AND HAVE ENOUGH EMPTY SPACE (MIN 20MM IS REQUIRED ) THE SPRINGS CAN BE DIFFERENT COLOR (BLUE OR RED are recommended) AND DIFFERENT MEASUREMENTS)!!! NO IMPOSSIBLE THINGS. With correct measurements of struts and springs your trunk can be open with the remote key (3 keys button and need to work the trunk button)
 
The middle button on the key fob, which opens the boot, needs to be pressed for a couple of seconds. A brief press will do nothing. Press and hold, and the boot will not just unlock but also unlatch. If the car was locked prior to the use of the middle button, the boot will lock again when you close it. This means that, if you put your keys down in the boot and then close it, you'll lock your keys in the car.

The dampers aren't strong enough to actually lift the whole tailgate upwards. There is an aftermarket kit of springs that can be fitted around the damper that are strong enough to lift the boot. As such, using the middle button, the boot will fly all the way open. Whilst it looks cool in Facebook videos, it comes with two downsides that are, for me, a deal-breaker...
1) When you open the boot manually, using the button above the registration plate, the whole tailgate wants to fly upwards. You've either got to dodge it flying upwards, or brace it.
2) Whilst the use of the additional springs makes the boot open 'automatically', you have to push to close it instead. Normally speaking, the A2's boot closes under its own weight once beyond a certain point. As such, by using the springs, you trade opening effort for closing effort, which, to my mind, renders the whole idea a bit pointless.

Cheers,

Tom
 
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timmus said:
The middle button on the key fob, which opens the boot, needs to be pressed for a couple of seconds. A brief press will do nothing. Press and hold, and the boot will not just unlock but also unlatch. If the car was locked prior to the use of the middle button, the boot will lock again when you close it. This means that, if you put your keys down in the boot and then close it, you'll lock your keys in the car.

The dampers aren't strong enough to actually lift the whole tailgate upwards. There is an aftermarket kit of springs that can be fitted around the damper that are strong enough to lift the boot. As such, using the middle button, the boot will fly all the way open. Whilst it looks cool in Facebook videos, it comes with two downsides that are, for me, a deal-breaker...
1) When you open the boot manually, using the button above the registration plate, the whole tailgate wants to fly upwards. You've either got to dodge it flying upwards, or brace it.
2) Whilst the use of the additional springs makes the boot open 'automatically', you have to push to close it instead. Normally speaking, the A2's boot closes under its own weight once beyond a certain point. As such, by using the springs, you trade opening effort for closing effort, which, to my mind, renders the whole idea a bit pointless.

Cheers,

Tom
Click to expand...
Damm your good!!
 
I thought I would share my key experiences.

I wanted a second key to my 2003 Audi A2 since one key had been lost by the previous owner.
This car has an AC CCCU and uses an 8Z0 837 231 D key, note the "D" suffix, in contrary to the earlier A2s.

After thorough reading here and in the german A2 site (a2 freun) and in the Ross tech site I set off.

This was my plan:

A. get my hands on a new key which both will be able to communicate with my CCCU and has a virgin (unpaired) immobilizer chip inside.

B. get the key blade cut so it mechanically fits into the car locks (this is practical to do before step D since the key then can be pushed into the ignition lock, and therefore can be near the immobilizer ring which is located around the ignition lock)

C. find out the login code to make it possible to VCDS to pair the key immobilizer chip to the car

D. use VCDS to pair the key immobilizer chip to the car (Instrument cluster)

E. Pair the remote function of the key to the car (CCCU)


Here's how it turned out:


Step A
I ordered this key from France:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Clé-Vierge-Complète-ID48-Audi-A4-S4-RS4-QUATTRO-CABRIOLET-8E0837220Q-8E0837220K/132459779372?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648

It costed me 34,49 Euro plus 7 Euro shipping => 41,49 Euro.
The shipment took many weeks, but most likely due to France being locked down with corona.
As delivered:
DSC_3185.JPG




Step B
I found a local locksmith in the nearby city Torshälla who said he could cut the blade, but he refused to cut the blank blade I had (which came with the new key), instead he would order a blank key from his supplier. The cost would be 450 SEK, which I found too high given my alternatives.

Instead I ordered a cut key blade from this site in Germany:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-Ersatz-...126668?hash=item1a4adcb00c:g:co0AAOSwISFaypEY

I sent a photo of my original key blade separate efter the order, as a template.
It costed me 9,99 Euro plus 6,50 Euro shipping => 16,49 Euro. The shipment took only a few days.

Note: Beware not to order a key blade suitable for the original key, it wont fit this key.
The blades have different dimensions in the inner end of the blade as illustrated here:
DSC_3215.JPG



Some fiddly work to remove the blank blade and mount the new cut one:
DSC_3408.JPG



The blade fitted perfectly both in the door lock and in the ignition lock BTW :)


Step C
I ordered a VAG Commander 1.4 package. Comes with PC SW (for Windows XP) and a dongle (USB-OBD).
Found one at ebay for 15,25 GBP.

Installed it at my old XP laptop and my anti-virus software complained a lot about viruses. As I dont have this laptop connected to internet, merely as a car tool I accepted this.
It was then very easy to connect to the car and extract the login code, a four digit code in my case.


Step D
Today actually. I brought both keys to the car together with my VCDS.
Followed more or less this approach.
Key on
Select control module
17 - Instruments
Login – 11
I enter the code retreived by VAG Commander, with an additional leading "0" to get five digit format, and press "DoIt!"
Adaptation -10
Type 21 as channel
Type 2 as new value (I have two keys)

And here I had some trouble and had to try several times, but a combination of doing "Save" and switching between both keys in the ign lock finally got me through.

Both keys now can start the engine. :)


Step E
This was rather straightforward with the available info here and at Ross tech.
Dont have all details in my head right now as I did this some days ago.
Both keys can now remotely lock and unlock the car.

My cost for this:
Key 41,49 Euro
Cut key blade 16,49 Euro
Total 58 Euro (52 GBP)

One-offs:
Vag Commander 15,25 GBP

and of course VCDS... :eek:

But compared to the Audi dealer who wanted around 2500 SEK (210 GBP) for a key,
I think I did savings here, and not to forget some learnings which is fun too.
 
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I need to get a second remote for my A2 . I only have one working remote and no idea of the key nos . (where can I confirm ?) What are my options for a new key and working remote ....
1 . Ebay & ?
2. Audi - probably expensive
3. Auto locksmith
4 ?

Is going the ebay route advisable , or would it be prudent to get another key from a auto locksmith if this is possible . What are costs?
 
tnpali01 said:
I need to get a second remote for my A2 . I only have one working remote and no idea of the key nos . (where can I confirm ?) What are my options for a new key and working remote ....
1 . Ebay & ?
2. Audi - probably expensive
3. Auto locksmith
4 ?

Is going the ebay route advisable , or would it be prudent to get another key from a auto locksmith if this is possible . What are costs?
Click to expand...
If you're able to visit me near Lancaster, or wait until I'm next working from Leighton Buzzard, then I'll happily sort this for you. I always aim to surpass the services of Audi dealerships whilst being cheaper than local garages...

Timmus Audi A2 Upgrades, Retrofits and Repairs

Greetings to all A2 owners, For over a decade, I have been upgrading and repairing A2s. Having dedicated myself to just one model of car, I have intimate, specialised knowledge of the vehicle we all love. Countless reviews and recommendations are scattered across the pages of this forum. My...
www.a2oc.net www.a2oc.net

My next Leighton Buzzard residency won't be until 2023, but this thread gives a good idea of how it works...

Timmus in the South East - June 2022

Hello good people of A2OC, First of all, my apologies for being very silent on the forum in recent times. This is, in part, due to being neck-deep in major house renovations. I appreciate that this has resulted in many club members waiting a long time for responses to private messages. Rest...
www.a2oc.net www.a2oc.net

I can also offer a partial solution purely by post, which would save a major headache in an emergency (should you accidentally lock your existing key in the car, for instance).

I'm happy to discuss your options.

All the best,

Tom
 
Afternoon,

Pretty much everything regarding replacement key fobs is within this thread. What may not be covered specific part number remote fobs that work with the different Central Convenience Control Units (CCCUs). This is definitely covered elsewhere though.

Here’s a thread where I assisted a fellow member a couple of years ago:

Replacement fob and spare key

I am looking at replacing my old key fob/case with a new one while also having a spare key made,what the best way to go about doing this, the car in question is a 2001
www.a2oc.net www.a2oc.net

The above linked thread shows someone else who was in the same situation as you whereby he only had one key. A quick solution was offered at next to no cost, only the cost of the key fob, the coding work involved was done free of charge.

To answer your questions though:

1. Yes this is a good idea and have used a specific seller a few times to supply key fobs and parts there of.

2. You guessed correctly, this option will of course be the most expensive.

3. Where this option will be cheaper than point 2, it will no doubt easily cost treble figures.

4. Is the better solution which will involve purchasing a correctly paired remote fob (from a member or eBay) and have a member who has key coding capability. There are a few who can do it for you, not sure who your closest member might be.

To provide a link to where might be best to obtain a key fob, could you first confirm the part number of your remote half of the key fkb. It’ll be 8Z0 837 231, it might also have a letter D after the numbers 231, this is important.

Let me know the part number and I’ll put some links together for you to think over.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Hello again,

To get the part number of the remote half of the key fob you will have to separate it from the front (key blade) half. It will look something like this:

AC0A76A6-73C8-471F-BF42-5BFCFC399849.png


If the part number has worn away then another way to understand what the part number is to tell us the part number of the CCCU, it’s within the passengers footwell compartment. Lift the carpet up and you’ll see a ribbed aluminium plate with 3x Dzus / 1/4 turn fasteners. Beneath this plate you’ll see something like this:

66A04B85-B0F4-461D-9899-B722936F2209.png


The CCCU is the black plastic module:

FBF333BD-BD8C-41AE-AF38-4FA0DBC86B94.jpeg


You’ll see them at the above part number ends in the letters AF. This is what determines what revision of the remote half of the key fob you require.

Hope this helps out as having a spare key is an extremely good thing to have.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
tnpali01 said:
I need to get a second remote for my A2 . I only have one working remote and no idea of the key nos . (where can I confirm ?) What are my options for a new key and working remote ....
1 . Ebay & ?
2. Audi - probably expensive
3. Auto locksmith
4 ?

Is going the ebay route advisable , or would it be prudent to get another key from a auto locksmith if this is possible . What are costs?
Click to expand...
Good Afternoon Neil,

I will leave it for the far more experienced Toms to help you with the coding and key fob, but what you do do first is obtain a cut key blade for your A2, Either local or ebay.

Ebay will cost £10ish, send them good pictures of your current key blade and you will have a key blade by Friday. You will then be able to unlock the driver's door and retrieve your fob if it should accidently get locked in the car and can be used later with a purchased additional fob. Do it now, I can probably find the details of the ebay seller I used if you wish.

Andy
 
@tnpali01,

The eBay member who I have purchased keys from in the past currently has these offerings:

1. 8Z0 837 231:
Screenshot 2022-12-07 at 16.28.22.png


2. 8Z0 837 231 D:
Screenshot 2022-12-07 at 16.32.34.png


3. 8E0 837 220 K:
Screenshot 2022-12-07 at 16.35.34.png


Which item works in your A2 will depend on the part number of either your current key fob or your CCCU, let us know what these part numbers are so we can advise you which listing to purchase.

You'll also notice that the 3 items above are from the same seller who I have only good things to say about. He can also supply a freshly cut key blade, like Andy @Andrew states, by providing just a good quality picture of you existing key blade.

Hope this sees you with the necessary parts ready to visit someone to to the technical element for you. If you're ever passing J22 on the M1 then I'd do it for nothing as long as you don't mind chatting about all things A2 for the 10 minutes the process will take.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Just to expand on the Tom's explanations. When you look at the part number on your CCCU is it ends with a single letter then the key fob needed (A2 style) has no letter D. On the other hand if the CCCU end in double letter then you NEED the D after the fob part number.
Simple way is Double letters needs the D for the key fob.

It is important to have all the old keys deleted from the memory and only the current keys programmed in. This will stop anyone who has an old key for the car using its remote. Unfortunately they could still use the key manually to open the car and possibly start the car as I do not think the immobiliser chip is ever cancelled in an old key.
 
audifan said:
It is important to have all the old keys deleted from the memory and only the current keys programmed in. This will stop anyone who has an old key for the car using its remote. Unfortunately they could still use the key manually to open the car and possibly start the car as I do not think the immobiliser chip is ever cancelled in an old key.
Click to expand...
Evening Graham,

Only the front half of the key fobs (ID48 chips) that are present at the time of pairing transponders (within 60 seconds of the procedure) to the Cluster with VCDS (or equivalent) will be available for use once the procedure is complete.

Let's say you conduct the pairing process due to loosing a spare key fob and purchase a replacement. You will again have 2 fully functioning key fobs. If you subsequently find said lost key fob, it will no longer work and the immobiliser will prevent the vehicle from being driven away with this recently found key fob. The only way to get the previously paired (ID48 chip) key fob to work again is to conduct the pairing process again, thus now having 3 fully functional front halves.

The key blade itself of the recently found key fob will of course open the vehicle but the engine wouldn't remain running due to the ID48 transponder chip no longer being logged as in use. Hope that makes sense.

As a habit I always perform this procedure with VCDS when purchasing an A2 to ensure that only the key fobs which I have in my possession will allow the vehicle to be driven away.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
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