Alternator options

Good shout will give it a go. Might wear a crash helmet just in case though
Ok so the socket worked but then can't remove the wrench as the space to allow it to be removed ls reduced when the tensioner goes back by around 1 to 2cm. I may have to buy a 3/8 bar rather than use my 3/8 torque wrench as I suspect it's just too thick to manoeuvre
 
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Ok so the socket worked but then can't remove the wrench as the space to allow it to be removed ls reduced when the tensioner goes back by around 1 to 2cm. I may have to buy a 3/8 bar rather than use my 3/8 torque wrench as I suspect it's just too thick to manoeuvre
When I was messing about with the tensioner and alternator replacements 2 and a bit years ago I found that the near-ideal tool was a long reach angled spanner - I think there are various types called things like "obstruction" spanners, "S-shaped" spanners and so on ; I seem to remember combining that with locking pliers to get enough leverage to position the tensioner with one hand and mess around with right-angled pliers to insert / withdraw the locking pin. Still felt like I needed three left arms to do it properly.
 
Ok so the socket worked but then can't remove the wrench as the space to allow it to be removed ls reduced when the tensioner goes back by around 1 to 2cm. I may have to buy a 3/8 bar rather than use my 3/8 torque wrench as I suspect it's just too thick to manoeuvre
A piece of flat steel 25mm x 6mm with 2 M6 cap head bolts either drilled & tapped or secured with nuts, spaced to locate in the centre of the hexagonal casting that the pulley attaches to & the other bolt needs to locate in the open curve of the tensioner, this will allow you to safely move the tensioner & insert a pin to secure.
Safest method given the tension within the spring & a note worth pointing out that the hexagonal section is only a casting & will round off very easily even with the correct sized ring spanner.
Goggles & leather gloves at least .
Hope that helps
Keith.
 
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Yup here you go. I'm pulling the bar towards me but I'm only just running out of room to align the holes to push the pin in.
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Okay, I'm now wondering why exactly you're using a torque wrench here?

The Audi workshop manual is pretty clear - use an offset ring spanner (so @Robin_Cox was right)

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I'd say a set of quality offset spanners is pretty much essential in any automotive workshop. They're not the cheapest, but the Halfords Advanced set is excellent value:
 
Okay, I'm now wondering why exactly you're using a torque wrench here?

Because an offset spanner or any other spanner is not long enough to overcome the tension of the spring. A torque wrench also has a ratchet, unlike a spanner. I usually use an offset spanner with a length of plastic pipe. When I have removed the pin, I pull on the plastic pipe and let nature take its' course!

RAB
 
Because an offset spanner or any other spanner is not long enough to overcome the tension of the spring. A torque wrench also has a ratchet, unlike a spanner. I usually use an offset spanner with a length of plastic pipe. When I have removed the pin, I pull on the plastic pipe and let nature take its' course!

Given that the OP's torque wrench doesn't have sufficient access, I'd say your suggestion of some plastic pipe sounds a very good one.
 
I can add that the aluminium hexagon (which i the first hand choice to use your tool on) might snap and then e.g. my previous post is a good option.
Hope yours dont snap though.
 
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