Another A2 on the road to recovery….yes, another one!

I need to give my one a good interior detail like you did! Well done mate. Is it easy to remove front seats? Please give the pedals a good APC and brush scrub (sorry my ocd)🙈
 
datsundrew said:
Hinges definitely aren’t worn, it seems there’s movement between the hinge and door. If it is cracked is there a fix, or is it new door time?
Click to expand...
As @Clackers / Andy has said, my money is on loose hinge bolts. Check all of them for tightness. I have had 2 A2's where the door dropped badly. Traced both to loose lower door hinge bolts. Tightened and all fine.
@A2Steve has a breaker in, so probably a good source of Wheel Arch Liner, and probably other parts.

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
 
H-M3 said:
I need to give my one a good interior detail like you did! Well done mate. Is it easy to remove front seats? Please give the pedals a good APC and brush scrub (sorry my ocd)🙈
Click to expand...
Yes, 4 bolts, easy. 2 plastic covers at the back, the outside one has a plastic pop fixer underneath that has to come off.
Just remember to disconnect the airbag plug when it’s unbolted and tilted back…..and don’t turn the ignition on, or you’ll need VCDS to reset it😀
 
Finished work early today, and a load of bits have arrived in the post! I set about getting the rear end done…..arches out, shocks and springs out, a wire brush on the rear axle which is actually a very good one, and then a coat of fertan on the rust. I checked the brakes, and whoever did it last and recently did a good job…..new drums, and all of the internal bits and brake cables 😀 new springs and shocks fitted, and it’s all looking spangly under there! I have ordered new wheel studs as the original ones are horrid, really crusty.
Also, luckily I managed to get the locking wheel nuts off with the old splined key from one of the other A2’s. There was a smaller and a bigger spline, and it was the smaller. I wonder how many sizes there were?
This car is way better than I originally thought it was…..so far!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5489.jpeg
    IMG_5489.jpeg
    3 MB · Views: 54
  • IMG_5491.jpeg
    IMG_5491.jpeg
    2.7 MB · Views: 54
  • IMG_5492.jpeg
    IMG_5492.jpeg
    3.2 MB · Views: 55
Well I spoke too soon!! This morning I went to get the front wheels off to find both the splined bolts were very tight, and the tool just rounded off!!😡😡. Luckily I had some old studs and a welder!
 
Last edited:
More work done today, and it’s all been a bit of a nightmare, all the things I’ve read people ..saying on here about how difficult some jobs can be, and how long they take, and how seized up things are? Well, now I full understand!!
The track rod nuts, strut bolts, drop links etc have all required heat, the grinder and a hammer, however the strut top bolts came out easily. The right hand bottom arm came out easily as the bolt was completely loose and has no thread in the console, so that’s why it pulled to the left on acceleration and not the tracking😳 I got the console out and removed the arm. I used a puller an it was so easy. New console ordered!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5505.jpeg
    IMG_5505.jpeg
    3 MB · Views: 45
  • IMG_5506.jpeg
    IMG_5506.jpeg
    2.1 MB · Views: 46
I removed both the struts, which have the vw Audi label on, so could they possibly be the original? No signs of leakage and seem fine to be honest, but I have replaced them along with the dust bellows and original springs.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5517.jpeg
    IMG_5517.jpeg
    3.2 MB · Views: 33
  • IMG_5507.jpeg
    IMG_5507.jpeg
    3.2 MB · Views: 29
  • IMG_5516.jpeg
    IMG_5516.jpeg
    2.2 MB · Views: 31
  • IMG_5515.jpeg
    IMG_5515.jpeg
    2.4 MB · Views: 30
And then on to the passenger side, which again has Been an absolute bas#ard of a job😡😡
Getting the bolt out of the wishbone was a nightmare an awful job, and I spent 3 hours with oil, heat and working the bolt in and out until it finally came out! Once out I removed the console to get the wishbone out, and again used a puller.
The thread in the console was ok, so I ran an m12 tap through it to clean it up, and then came up with a plan to pull the new arm in and it worked brilliantly. I’ve read that some use hammers and ratchet straps to do this, especially as the cast arms seem to have a more ‘clumsy’ looking hexagonal piece.
I used m12 threaded bar and screwed it into the console, aligned the hex bit with the bush and then wound it in by screwing the nut in…….it was so, so easy!! This would also work if it was on the car, so give it a go !
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5518.jpeg
    IMG_5518.jpeg
    2.8 MB · Views: 49
  • IMG_5519.jpeg
    IMG_5519.jpeg
    2.7 MB · Views: 43
  • IMG_5520.jpeg
    IMG_5520.jpeg
    2.6 MB · Views: 48
Last edited:
Wow, this making me rethink doing mine,, as dont have those tools or experience! I notice the wheel arch liners look odd are they trimmed in the middle?
How do you orientate the bush correctly for fitting into the console? The hex shape has to be lined up correctly to recoev the wishbone I presume?
 
The arch is missing, or at least most of it on the passenger side. I think I was just unlucky with all the seized bits on this one car.
The wishbone was really easy to get in, and it’s very obvious where it needs to go to line up. One flat up or down is a big difference in angle.
 
datsundrew said:
The arch is missing, or at least most of it on the passenger side. I think I was just unlucky with all the seized bits on this one car.
The wishbone was really easy to get in, and it’s very obvious where it needs to go to line up. One flat up or down is a big difference in angle.
Click to expand...
I was referring to the orientation of the bush when pushing into the console, rather than wishbone into bush.
 
datsundrew said:
And then on to the passenger side, which again has Been an absolute bas#ard of a job😡😡
Getting the bolt out of the wishbone was a nightmare an awful job, and I spent 3 hours with oil, heat and working the bolt in and out until it finally came out! Once out I removed the console to get the wishbone out, and again used a puller.
The thread in the console was ok, so I ran an m12 tap through it to clean it up, and then came up with a plan to pull the new arm in and it worked brilliantly. I’ve read that some use hammers and ratchet straps to do this, especially as the cast arms seem to have a more ‘clumsy’ looking hexagonal piece.
I used m12 threaded bar and screwed it into the console, aligned the hex bit with the bush and then wound it in by screwing the nut in…….it was so, so easy!! This would also work if it was on the car, so give it a go !
Click to expand...
You were lucky! The bolt didn't snap! I have just had one drilled out and helicoiled.
Great work buddy.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top