ATL engine glow plug connector assembly

[BiggDogg]

Yesterday I noticed I had a fault code for cylinder 3 glow plug, though starting had been unaffected. Pulling the all-in-1 rubber connector assembly away from all 3 glow plugs at the same time, the rubber was all cracked and virtually disintegrated as I took it off, the black plastic internal parts stayed behind on the glow plugs! After confirming that cylinder 3 glow plug was reading a high 5.7 Ohms rather than under 1 Ohm (as with 1&2) I got a new glow plug from Euro Car Parts and went to fit it. Fitting the replacement glow plug went smoothly (long slim 10mm socket needed) but I puzzled what to do to about the connector assembly. I would have used heatshrink but the biggest size I had was just too small. I opted for a temporary measure of fitting all the bits back together as best I could and binding with insulating tape. Really I should look to get a complete repair assembly. It is functional, the connectors do click into place on the glow plugs but I am not too happy about it. Upon clearing the fault code it has stayed clear after several starts. Photos below.

• Has anyone else had this problem?.
• Do all the diesel engines use the same part or is this one peculiar to the ATL (90bhp) - I know the glowplugs are low voltage, high current and controlled differently to the AMF at least.
• Is there a repair part available from Audi?

All the best,
Matt

PS: (Yes I know there is a nasty cable tie holding the intercooler pipe - it is also on the list of things to do).

 

[fhl]

Yes, I suffered this when I replaced all 3 glow plugs on my 2005 ATL. I used epoxy resin on mine as a ring of plastic broke off rather than a crack like yours. I will replace the whole glow plug rail bridge wiring harness in the near future as I believe this is causing vibration at idle similar to what @Un4tural posted recently in diagnostics.

Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk

 

[BiggDogg]

Thanks @fhl. I went and looked for a part number for the rail here:

--><!--

Electrics Harness for engine compartment ATL for 2004 Audi Audi A2 Europe market

www.oemepc.com

It looks like it isn't peculiar to the ATL, which is good.
I think it is no.20, p/n 045971782A, the price is £50 for Audi original part on eBay.

Matt

 

[Riba]

Just found out mine crumbled to pieces as well. Has anyone replaced theirs with a new one? I'm just wondering where the other end ends up and is it hard to get to it. I'd like to avoid splicing wires if possible. Thanks!

 

[CrispyEdd]

Think it has to be spliced in as the three plugs dissappear into a larger loom round right side of engine by tandem.pump.

I woukd do your homework on splicing wires with such a current draw.

 

[Riba]

Think it has to be spliced in as the three plugs dissappear into a larger loom round right side of engine by tandem.pump.

I woukd do your homework on splicing wires with such a current draw.

Thanks for confirming. I am electrician by trade so I should be able to do it without fire or injuries. I think I will just add an appropriate connector.

 

[CrispyEdd]

Thanks for confirming. I am electrician by trade so I should be able to do it without fire or injuries. I think I will just add an appropriate connector.

Do a little guide thread as it's a common annoyance, my atl was like this and I'm sure age is catching up with all the other diesels!

 

[Riba]

Absolutely, I was a bit surprised there isn't one already considering that most of them disintegrated by now.

 

[nod]

Just found out mine crumbled to pieces as well. Has anyone replaced theirs with a new one? I'm just wondering where the other end ends up and is it hard to get to it. I'd like to avoid splicing wires if possible. Thanks!

I've done this on one of my tdi's, i spliced the wires, soldered together and wrapped, not had any issues since. Will see if I can take some photos at lunchtime. cheers

 

[audifan]

Provided the internal contact that connects to the glow plug is intact then the "insulation" is more cosmetic than functional. remember these are not HT leads so no chance of spark leakage. The heat shrink repair works very well and holds all the parts together. Provided the internal bore that fits over the glow plug is not decreased then any suitable epoxy or silicone could be used to replace missing parts.

Replacement caps come in the form of repair kits and these do need to be spliced into the existing loom. Not too difficult but for what they are expensive.

 

[Riba]

All three plastic tubes on mine have completely broken off. I could still use shrink tubing to hold it together but it really is in a miserable state.

 

[TAABVW]

This has also happened to all my 90's. I agree with audifan in post 10. Consequently BiggDogg (OP) "wrapping the parts in insulating tape" repair is something I did a few years ago and considered a permanent repair. No problems since. Just very careful when removing connectors now.

 

[Riba]

Provided the internal contact that connects to the glow plug is intact then the "insulation" is more cosmetic than functional. remember these are not HT leads so no chance of spark leakage. The heat shrink repair works very well and holds all the parts together. Provided the internal bore that fits over the glow plug is not decreased then any suitable epoxy or silicone could be used to replace missing parts.

Replacement caps come in the form of repair kits and these do need to be spliced into the existing loom. Not too difficult but for what they are expensive.

After taking a closer look at it I agree with you. The rigid part is fine and can be pushed back, only the surrounding rubber is disintegrating. I think I will use shrinkwrap to hold it in place and be done with it, much better than messing with the wiring and unnecessary spending.