timmus
A2OC Donor
Indeed! We've been collectively working on these choices for nearly 20 years. The A2 TDI is a dream for tinkerers.I don't know of any other modern-ish car where there's so much space for creativity / customisation.
Indeed! We've been collectively working on these choices for nearly 20 years. The A2 TDI is a dream for tinkerers.I don't know of any other modern-ish car where there's so much space for creativity / customisation.
Indeed! We've been collectively working on these choices for nearly 20 years. The A2 TDI is a dream for tinkerers.
Oh noooooo! I'm only driving flat surface, and UNDER sea-level....... Should have taken a JDD... , just kidding.
@dj_efk , Go ahead and yes, ask and widen the scope!
The more input on this subject, the better...... It doesn't get more clear (maybe), but you can take what you like or sounds plausible and think about it.
About cost; at the breakers here in Holland, prices for a used MZN or MNY start at €150. JDD'S are higher priced over here.
Seals and new gearbox oil and sleeve for clutch bearing are about €25—€30 on the internet.
I strongly recommend to replace them before you install the box.
Also, the clutch, if you don't have a history present on this part, make sure you have a new one ready to fit.
I had a fairly new one in my car (receipt of former owner), but I still bought a new set to keep the work flow going if it was required.
All DIY by the way.
@Menno - Just found this in case any of your fellow Dutchmen are interested: Cheap low mileage JDD gearbox in the Netherlands
My only criticism is that there's not enough of your Dutch accent.Dutch accent
So what’s the difference in gearing between the MAL and MZN?
On the 30th of May this Mod was carried out on my TDI. It took me two days. Results??? Great the gearbox works perfectly.
Replace the rear seal behind the flywheel.
If you are going carry out all this work I would recommend removing the flywheel to gain access to the seal.
Note
Draw a line from the centre of the mounting onto the flywheel to help when you refit it.
Look for the white line in the 10 o'clock position
View attachment 65395
Bought the cheapest part I could find on eBay the picture below is the old seal that had a manufactures mark of year 2005.
View attachment 65391
The seal is Number 24 in the diagram.
View attachment 65393
Flywheel removed
View attachment 65392
The plastic insert clips to the drive end on the engine, the seal then slid neatly on and the eight bolts done up (marked with white pen).
View attachment 65394
Not recommended however this worked well for me. A chainsaw combi-tool (scrench) to lock the wheel.
Spin the tool around 180 degrees to slackening or tighten the flywheel bolts. ?
The risk here is mounting point on the back of the gearbox breaks or a tooth shears off the flywheel.
If you look at the teeth on the flywheel you can see there are 2 that look different from the rest, definitely do not use these sender teeth for this operation.
Gearbox mounting
I used an angle grinder to remove this part of the gearbox.
Keep putting the mount on the gearbox to check if the front and rear mounting bolts can be fitted.
The picture below is only half way through material removal and has some way to go before the gearbox mount can be fitted.
It is worth noting that the middle mounting hole requires a nut and bolt only the front and rear are threaded.
View attachment 65396
Note
This is not the area that requires packing with washers
View attachment 65397
x4 Washers must be fitted to each of the two front mounts, otherwise the body to gearbox fixing screws are not aligned.
View attachment 65398
I reused the lower pendulum mount with no modification. Two of the gearbox mounting points line up. To get them to align the engine was tilted slightly back to the bulkhead using a jack.
Clutch slave cylinder Fits OK
Gear cable linkage mount Fits OK
Selector sprung ends and EWQ selector mounts Fit OK
Drive shaft cups Fit OK
Gear Box Oil
Remove all gear oil before you start removing drive cups.
For peace of mind remove the upper (filler bung) and lower (drain bung) when the box is out of the car.
An old screwdriver inserted through one of the six outer holes hold the cup while the centre allen bolt was undone. I used a clamp compress the spring to refit the EWQ cups to the MAL box.
Removal or install of the gearbox is aided if you do not fit the Off Side/drivers cup shown in this picture.
View attachment 65402
Total cost for the project was 298
LUK clutch kit - 111
End Seal - 17
Gearbox - 150
2lts Gear oil - 20
Thank you to Menno for providing the springboard for this fantastic project.
My only criticism is that there's not enough of your Dutch accent.
Mine is that I would have liked to see the whole of the speedometer if I’m honest as it would make it easier to see the higher speed cruising RPMs at a glance. But thanks for posting.
Thank you Andy for your old gearbox, our sycros have gone on 2nd, 3rd and 4th plus flywheel no good. CheersOn the 30th of May this Mod was carried out on my 2003 TDI 75. It took me working alone two days. Results??? Great the gearbox works perfectly.
Replace the rear seal behind the flywheel
If you are going carry out all this work I would recommend removing the flywheel to gain access to the seal.
Note
Draw a line from the centre of the mounting onto the flywheel to help when you refit it.
Look for the white line in the 10 o'clock position
View attachment 65395
Bought the cheapest part I could find on eBay the picture below is the old seal that had a manufactures mark of year 2005.
View attachment 65391
The seal is Number 24 in this diagram
View attachment 65393
Flywheel removed
View attachment 65392
The plastic insert clips to the drive end on the engine, the seal then slid neatly on and the eight bolts done up (marked with white pen).
View attachment 65394
Not recommended however this worked well for me. A chainsaw combi-tool (scrench) to lock the wheel.
Spin the tool around 180 degrees to slackening or tighten the flywheel bolts. ?
The risk here is mounting point on the back of the gearbox breaks or a tooth shears off the flywheel.
If you look at the teeth on the flywheel you can see there are 2 that look different from the rest, definitely do not use these sender teeth for this operation.
Gearbox mounting
I used an angle grinder to remove this part of the gearbox.
Keep putting the mount on the gearbox to check if the front and rear mounting bolts can be fitted.
The picture below is only half way through material removal and has some way to go before the gearbox mount can be fitted.
It is worth noting that the middle mounting hole requires a nut and bolt as only the front and rear are mountings are threaded.
View attachment 65396
Note
The gap you can see below is not the area that requires packing with washers. This is the rear mounting and it must be flush to the gearbox.
View attachment 65397
x4 Washers must be fitted to each of the two front mounts, otherwise the body to gearbox fixing screws are not aligned.
View attachment 65398
I reused the lower pendulum mount with no modification. Two of the gearbox mounting points line up. To get them to align the engine was tilted slightly back to the bulkhead using a jack.
Clutch slave cylinder Fits OKGear cable linkage mount Fits OKSelector sprung ends and EWQ selector mounts Fit OKDrive shaft cups Fit OK
Gear Box Oil
Remove all gear oil before you start removing drive cups.
For peace of mind remove the upper (filler bung) and lower (drain bung) when the box is out of the car.
An old screwdriver inserted through one of the six outer holes hold the cup while the centre allen bolt was undone. I used a wood clamp to compress the sprung drive cups when fitting the EWQ parts to the MAL box.
Removal or install of the gearbox is aided if you do not fit the Off Side/drivers cup shown in this picture.
View attachment 65402
Total cost for the project was 298
LUK clutch kit - 111
End Seal - 17
Gearbox - 150
2lts Gear oil - 20
Thank you to Menno for providing the springboard for this fantastic project.