I have the same, so you will see the exact location in my video .
I pressure bleed every time but not with the engine running. I use an Ezibleed kit.I would pressure bleed with engine running to see if it helps
Mines a sealey one which just needs hand pumpingI pressure bleed every time but not with the engine running. I use an Ezibleed kit.
An A2 collapsible spare is the ideal pressure source.
Good questions, the bleed I did was using VCDS and it only uses the front left and front right bleed points.I have the same, so you will see the exact location in my video .
Anyway, they were slightly rusted on my drums, but a gentle push did the job.
PS: I do not get something: you said that you have already bleeded the brakes. So you should have already bleeded also drums, right?
PS2: I am not a mechanic so do not take this as a 100% correct quide and of course have in mind that my car is LHD car.
I'm guessing that the assumption is that you have bled the rears already as they are the furthest points, and don't require VCDS. This is my guess from reading this thread, I'd not considered it before, and would probably have done the front, as you did.Good questions, the bleed I did was using VCDS and it only uses the front left and front right bleed points.
Yes I agree, there’s lots of bits of information online but nothing canonical to refer to. Perhaps I need to pull it all together into as post. I’ll add it to my list of things I punish myself for never getting around to….I'm guessing that the assumption is that you have bled the rears already as they are the furthest points, and don't require VCDS. This is my guess from reading this thread, I'd not considered it before, and would probably have done the front, as you did.
Mac.
@mtl thank you for sharing the video, it’s really good! Informative and clear.Bleeding valve is down and you need to bow down and also opening/closing the bleeding valve is very uncomfortable due to its position and all other stuff around. Anyway, I could feel my back after this .
@Mightyleader: here is my process if it is of any help:
@audifan: why do you start on the left rear? Don't you always start with the brake that is furthest away from the brake cylinder? Or do RHD cars have the brake cylinder and ABS pump on the right side?
I would carefully open the valve a further 1/4 turn to see if a flow starts if not increase a further 1/4Hmmmm OK, I have more information and therefore more questions…
I started the process as outlined in @mtl ‘s video and in the order described for RHD vehicles.
Didn’t get any further than Rear Right… I attached a ring spanner to the valve, and the drain pipe secured in a container.
Pointed the outflow from the valve upwards and, in combination with my partner, went through the process of open valve 1/4 turn > depress brake (no more than 75%) > close valve > release brake > repeat. We did this 10 times and checked the fluid reservoir at the mid-point.
The problem: no fluid came out of the valve and the reservoir did not drop at all
My assessment would be that there’s nothing but air in the line OR there’s some crazy blockage somewhere preventing fluid from travelling through the system.
I didn’t go any further to the other wheels yet, just stopped there.
Does anyone have any better analysis?
I agree.I would carefully open the valve a further 1/4 turn to see if a flow starts if not increase a further 1/4
& see if any fluid emerges.
If fluids coming out then air aint going in so other than making a mess you could completely remove the bleed screw with the pressure bleeding method. Its possible a fault in the abs module could prevent fluid movement but remarkably rare!
I agree.
Hello, I expect you are all bled out with brake bleeding tips, I remember reading once in Haynes manual aiming at issues if the master cylinder was drained or low to use a power bleeding technique where either the front two or rear two were simultaneously opened while bleeding. I tried it once when my power bleeding tube came off and drained my master cylinder that worked for me.Morning all,
I'm really frustrated with the brakes on Diane right now, and would love some advice.
Recently, I had the callipers replaced on the front disks as they old ones were causing binding and the pistons were in a sad state.
I had the repair done by a competent local mobile mechanic and I'm more than happy with that work.
Only two issues remained:
I'll describe the issues I now have from this. After some research on this lovely forum and others in the same VAG vehicle world, it seemed prudent to do a VCDS-driven brake bleed as many had reported it did wonders with soft pedals.
- The pedal was soft
- I still have Brakes/ABS warning lights.
I got a lot of information from this page here on A2OC, which led me to these clear directions (reply #10) on what to expect from the process all of which gave me confidence to go ahead.
So I got bleed tubing with non-return valves as directed, got two 11mm ring spanners and took time to set everything up (up on axle stands, front wheels off etc...) I even thought of a novel way to make the bottles to catch the fluid stand up, see pics...
View attachment 93616 View attachment 93617
Running through the process in VCDS everything seemed to be fine and I saw little air bubbles in the tubing. I topped up the reservoir as the process went on so it never emptied and the bottles collected just under a litre of fluid as the directions said.
HOWEVER. At the end of the process, when VCDS told me the bleed is complete, the brake pedal felt like it had zero pressure behind it and gently pumping it for time made no difference. I put everything back together and did a gentle test moving forward and back on the drive and sure enough there is ZERO brakes applied.
I can only assume that the process caused a leak, pipe split or maybe even the master cylinder seals to go.
QUESTION 1: Is this a correct assumption (I can't see any leaks dropping down under the car) or is there something I have missed and can do to resolve?
Secondly I still have the ABS/Brake warning light so I ran VCDS again and got the following output, which is clearly not related to the hydraulic system. I have checked the cabling to the sensor, the sensor (as best I can, I mean it's there and doesn't look broken) and the fuse.
Code:Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: None Controller: 8Z0 907 379 D Component: ESP FRONT MK60 0101 Coding: 0007175 Shop #: WSC 00000 VCID: 49E5B47460A1 2 Faults Found: 00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent 00285 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Front Right (G45) 012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit
QUESTION 2: Are there any common places to check for issues in the wiring?