Check your front suspension arms people

Looking into this for my TDI 90 (ATL) model; the list of replacements is restricted

webcat.zf.com does not list a Lemförder part for the ATL model

https://www.trwaftermarket.com lists TRW parts for the ATL but these are not direct replacements for Audi part# 8Z0 407 153 L
AUDI — OE 8Z0407152J JTC1125
AUDI — OE 8Z0407151J JTC1124

So it looks like a choice between either the TRW cast ones at £106.17 per side from autopartspro.co.uk, or Audi pressed ones at £156 per side from @CreweAudi

I have tried to read through the entire thread and it seems everyone has chosen to replace with forged, from either TRW or Lemförder.

¿I don't suppose anyone knows who was OE manufacturer for the post 2003 pressed track control arms, Audi part# 8Z0407153L?

Andrew
 
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Andrew - the JTC1140 / JTC1141 appear to be the cast TRW parts specifically for ?all? A2s other than the 1.2tdi ; JTC1124 / 1125 are the 1.2tdi ones from that range. Someone commented here recently that the TRW are exactly the same as the Lemforders (another brand from the same company) but around 80% of the list price.
 
Andrew - the JTC1140 / JTC1141 appear to be the cast TRW parts specifically for ?all? A2s other than the 1.2tdi ; JTC1124 / 1125 are the 1.2tdi ones from that range. Someone commented here recently that the TRW are exactly the same as the Lemforders (another brand from the same company) but around 80% of the list price.
Me, and Phil, possibly others. TRW units have the Lemforder owl in the casting. Mine were £189.21 delivered (pair).
 
Thank you @Robin_Cox and @damadgeruk
I checked the Lemförder website which pointed me at webcat.zf.com
This site lists components from various manufacturers including Lemförder and TRW. When I put in my vehicle details it comes up with the TRW JTC1124 and JTC1125 part numbers.
Screen Shot 2018-06-14 at 20.40.37.png
 
I must admit that I'm getting confused with this now! I have a BHC-engined car, which according to most searches doesn't use the same arm as the AMF (probably because they were only supplied with the pressed arm to begin with) yet folk seem to have used them without issue. The fact that TRW's own website suggest 1124/5 is correct for your car is pretty convincing.

Damadgeruk - were yours 1124/5 or 1140/1 - and which year / engine have you got?
 
Hi all

Thanks for all the info in this thread but like Robin I am also confused, my car is also a BHC car, could somebody please give me the best place to source the replacement arms c/w part no’s ( sorry I& my being thick ! )

Regards

Marshy
 
I must admit that I'm getting confused with this now! I have a BHC-engined car, which according to most searches doesn't use the same arm as the AMF (probably because they were only supplied with the pressed arm to begin with) yet folk seem to have used them without issue. The fact that TRW's own website suggest 1124/5 is correct for your car is pretty convincing.

Damadgeruk - were yours 1124/5 or 1140/1 - and which year / engine have you got?
1140/1, BHC 2005.
 
Hi all

Thanks for all the info in this thread but like Robin I am also confused, my car is also a BHC car, could somebody please give me the best place to source the replacement arms c/w part no’s ( sorry I& my being thick ! )

Regards

Marshy
Mine were £189.21 from carparts4less, part numbers for 1140/1 are 615440706 and 615440716. More expensive atm as I used a discount code no longer available though will be back.
 

Yes - many times, thank you! Also have spent quite a bit of time looking at the 7zap exploded diagrams - as far as I can tell anything that the AMF takes should be identical for the BHC in this instance, and probably the ATL as well providing you use the correct bushes for the diesel (compared to petrol engines) ; it is just an anomaly that BHC get separated thus - and not always the same way by different online 'vehicle compatibility' checkers.
 
Fasteners using the torque + angle method of tightening are often called stretch bolts and that is literally what happens to them. The bolts are tightened past the yield point of the material and are in the first stage of 'necking' off.
In any bolted joint its the clamping force which is critical and not the torque applied to the fastener. Setting the bolt with a low initial torque value, then stretching it with the angle tightening process gives a more accurate clamping load than torque alone
I have a dial gauge torque wrench and it makes it easy to see how the torque reading maxes out then drops off as the full angle value is reached. The 'drop off' is caused by the bolt being taken past the yield point of the material, that's why you can't re tighten it by repeating the torque + angle process.
Safest way to check 'tightness' would be to use tables to check the standard torque value for the size of fastener.

One example - http://electronicfilters.tpub.com/TM-10-4330-237-13P/css/TM-10-4330-237-13P_105.htm

Cheers Spike

Finally got the torques but not before I hit an unmarked speed bump and knocked the steering geometry out again Arrrrgh! :mad:

M12 bolts through console to shell, required 70Nm +90 degrees. Measured (gave up at my 1/2 torque wrench max of 140 Nm) 140Nm +.

M12 bolts through console to suspension arm, required 70Nm +90 degrees. Measured 90Nm.

M10 bolts securing steering rack to sub frame, required 50Nm +90 degrees. Measured 65Nm

If anything the console bolts appear a little tight compared to the others and the table. I suppose I can be confident the consoles are unlikely to have been knocked out of position.
 
You’ve really had a ‘mare with this buddy. On the bright side... at least you’ve been able to fix it all. If this had been me and a garage I’d have spent thousands doing all the work you’ve done with no real idea of whether it was done well or not.

Hats off to you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Euro Car Parts are having a "sale" so if you use their Weekend37 code, a pair of TRW cast arms come to £212 delivered. Better than other possibilities, I reckon. It lasts until tomorrow, or whenever they decide to do it again.
 
Maybe already mentioned; but my 2001 AUA has cast iron from factory, but the 2005 ATL has pressed from factory.

Heard a downside with cast iron, and that is that they may fail catastropically due to errors during casting; ie small cracks in the cast evelops into full break. But not to worried about this myself
 
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