Check your front suspension arms people

sco said:
Me too! Manual mentions locating pins for the subframe - have you ordered some of those?
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I’d personally recommend getting them, there’s a lot of scope to put the subframe back in the wrong place.

I used the dirty marks around where the parts were originally to line it back up. Not perfect but better than nothing.

Also you don’t strictly need to remove the subframe but you probably will need to remove the “console”.

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As you can see the picture above where the clean mark is. It was being pushed out of that position by the new rubber. I nipped up the bolts very lightly so the console would stay put when moved and used a rubber mallet to get it into place.

Also, remember to use new bolts! They are stretch bolts and I personally wouldn’t trust them to re-use them. Pacchooong when they are torqued!
 
Dropping subframe out; piece of cake.

gpRHPE2.jpg


Getting subframe locating screws in place aaaagh! ?

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From the manual I wasn't expecting to drop the whole subframe - just remove a couple of bolts to allow the wishbone bush bracket to pull out.
Simon.
 
sco said:
From the manual I wasn't expecting to drop the whole subframe - just remove a couple of bolts to allow the wishbone bush bracket to pull out.
Simon.
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It’s only 4 bolts more to get the whole assembly. Pleased I did because the bolts securing the suspension arms to subframe are not coming out. Looks like I will need a M12 hellicoil kit or two new castings.

Yep full on disaster confirmed, one bolt is out and brought the thread with it. One is half out, absolutely solid, had to saw it off.
 
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I'm going to price replacement castings but I have reservations about the replacements being 100% the same as existing which have the locating pins set for them. Could there be any compatibility issues resulting in chassis to subframe misalignment?

Can't find 4D Helicoils. 3D appears to be the longest and difficult to get hold of. Would a 3D Helicoil be as strong as a 4D tapped hole in aluminium. As anybody butted two Helicoils to completely fill a tapped hole?
 
Bummer - you don't seem to have much luck with threaded fasteners do you! As you are going up on diameter 3D should be as strong as the original tapped hole.

Simon.
 
sco said:
Bummer - you don't seem to have much luck with threaded fasteners do you! As you are going up on diameter 3D should be as strong as the original tapped hole.

Simon.
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I know Simon; feeling badly done to so going for a bike ride. Same problem as on my crank front seal casting, salt and water gets in the far end of the thread (drilled through). Steel and aluminium corrode together to form a solid lump at the end of the bolt. It then destroys the aluminium tapped hole as the bolt comes out. Time to ride my ?.
 
Can I recommend to fill all cavities and contact points with water resistant grease, to avoid/reduce surface and contact corrosion :)
(grease blocks access to oxygen, without oxygen limited/no corrosion :) sticky stuff but effective... :) )

dieselfan
 
I’ll do something now I know about the problem. On my crank front seal housing I sealed the open ends with silicone. Waterproof grease is a further option thank you.
 
sco said:
As you are going up on diameter 3D should be as strong as the original tapped hole.

Simon.
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3D is the length of the insert, the diameter and thread are the same at M12 * 1.5 so I will still be using the standard bolt but into 25% less thread.
 
The weak point will be the stripping of the thread in the aluminium (as you've found). When you Helicoil the bolt is going into effectively a steel tapped hole so although the length of engagement is less the parent material is stronger. The Aluminium thread also becomes stronger because it's a larger diameter.

Simon.
 
sco said:
The weak point will be the stripping of the thread in the aluminium (as you've found). When you Helicoil the bolt is going into effectively a steel tapped hole so although the length of engagement is less the parent material is stronger. The Aluminium thread also becomes stronger because it's a larger diameter.

Simon.
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My misunderstanding, I agree.
 
Unreal, it's like my house, there's 4 toilets (not as awesome as it sounds), and the seals for each of them went in the past year. Looks like now's the time for A2 arms to burst! I'm very happy with the cast arms, and I'd maybe recommend that folks swap their pressed steel ones for cast, regardless of the minor differences in fitment and weight.
 
Not as grand as it sounds either, of 4 cars only one is working and that broke and had to be recovered last month. All 4 cars down but 4 toilets working.
The A2 is out of action due to this problem. Rather, prevention of this problem, both subframe castings are scrap due to corrosion of aluminium against steel.
 
Hi Guys,

Just checked the availability on the lower arms for 1.4 Tdi models and they are still available however there would be around a 5 day lead time as they come direct from Germany.

Best price i would be able to do on these would be £156.00 per side.

Thanks
 
CreweAudi said:
Hi Guys,
Just checked the availability on the lower arms for 1.4 Tdi models and they are still available however there would be around a 5 day lead time as they come direct from Germany.
Best price i would be able to do on these would be £156.00 per side.
Thanks
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Good price, pity I just bought some. Are these for the pressed steel or the earlier cast?
 
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