Massive brake repair or a scam?

A2Steve said:
If it's only 500m away i'm sure a couple of the boys from the other garage can push it for you. Sounds like he's trying his luck. It's all easy enough work to do.
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Yes, they said they can move the car if needed.

I was in the old garage for over an hour and we failed to start it. He said he had driven the car outside 5 minutes before I came and then it failed to start. They checked the fault codes and said there was only something related to the keys (immobilizer?) but both keys failed to ignite the engine. They had worked flawlessly before.

They didn't do work on anything else except the brakes, surely the A2 computer won't prevent ignition just because there's no brake fluid?
This is becoming a big problem as I'm not sure I can risk an unknown engine issue even if the other mechanic can do the brake job for much cheaper.

The ignition attempt seemed to work very lively and the engine sounded it like ran for 0.5 seconds, then just cranks. A bit like "brrhh! wow-wow-wow-wow-wow". When my battery has died in the past, it has been clear that the electricity runs out and it "freezes". But now it sounded lively and simply couldn't start the engine. A battery booster didn't help. We put the battery on a recharger before I left, but it's entirely possible to it only died (11.8 V) after we tried to start the car for a long period.

Anyone has any idea what can cause this problem? The timing belt was rotating OK on ignition attempt, fuel pump ok too. Tomorrow or Monday I'll have to decide whether I'll sell this or move this to the better mechanic and risk even more repairs.
 
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Check if there is a blinking yellow key sign on the dashboard. That's the sign of immobilizer disabling the engine.
You don't need to crank the engine, just turn on the ignition.
 
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Something is very wrong here, having broken the brake pipe, which he did not need to touch to inspect the drums, he stands back and lets the fluid drain out of the ABS. He could have got a clamp on the flexible the capped it off and retrieved his clamp.
Now in addition to a clutch, a rear axle, new brakes, new brake pipes, wheel bearings, ABS bleed etc it needs an engine!!! The car only went to have a leaky wheel investigated; they do that, it’s normal at 20 years old and he should have told you that. My advice is get the car moved. Even if just to stop him getting it.
 
neo said:
Check if there is a blinking yellow key sign on the dashboard. That's the sign of immobilizer disabling the engine.
You don't need to crank the engine, just turn on the ignition.
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No, there was only ABS light. Also later they said there's a problem with the gauges getting electricity, but maybe that's when we had cranked so much that the battery got low voltage.

philward said:
Something is very wrong here, having broken the brake pipe, which he did not need to touch to inspect the drums, he stands back and lets the fluid drain out of the ABS. He could have got a clamp on the flexible the capped it off and retrieved his clamp.
Now in addition to a clutch, a rear axle, new brakes, new brake pipes, wheel bearings, ABS bleed etc it needs an engine!!! The car only went to have a leaky wheel investigated; they do that, it’s normal at 20 years old and he should have told you that. My advice is get the car moved. Even if just to stop him getting it.
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Indeed. Not a nice service, from one flat tyre to no brakes and no ignition :( The lesson here, don't let just any mechanic touch rusty 20 years parts.
When I was there today, I noticed that he tried to brute force the timing belt cover off with a knife eventhough there are two small clips you can easily take off with your fingers. He also mixed a battery booster and a battery recharger, putting the recharger when he was supposed to put the booster... Maybe that explains how the brake pipes got destroyed.

Tomorrow, fresh attempt with a recharged battery and maybe disconnect the battery first so systems get rebooted. If that doesn't work, I don't know.
 
philward said:
My immediate thought was he has had the batteries out of the fobs. I couldn't remember though if that immobilises the car until they are synchronised again?
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Hi Phil,

Removing either the vehicle or remote battery only causes the back half of the fob loses synchronisation. The front half of the fob with the ID48 immobiliser transponder will not be effected by battery removal.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
2work said:
Hi Phil,

Removing either the vehicle or remote battery only causes the back half of the fob loses synchronisation. The front half of the fob with the ID48 immobiliser transponder will not be effected by battery removal.

Kind regards,

Tom
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I changed the CCCU and everything has worked perfectly with both keys/fobs for over a week. I got the back half pre-programmed to the new CCCU and only had to sync them. I'm assuming that the front half with the old transponders continue to work like they did. This can't be the cause?
 
Ridge said:
I'm assuming that the front half with the old transponders continue to work like they did. This can't be the cause?
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Afternoon Ridge,

If the front half (immobiliser chip) worked before then it should work now regardless of any power source being removed or interrupted. No need to re-sync the front half.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
I feel sympathy for you. Do try to get the car into hands you can trust. Fixing the brakes is something I think you will benefit of no matter what you decide to do next.
The engine issue should be solveable. Lots of useable replacement engines BBY model which can replace your AUA if the worst has happened (cambelt failure), but likely it is then enough to exchange the head even then.
I would recommend to try to tow start in once you have brakes, given that the (two!) cam belts look ok.
 
2work said:
Hi Phil,

Removing either the vehicle or remote battery only causes the back half of the fob loses synchronisation. The front half of the fob with the ID48 immobiliser transponder will not be effected by battery removal.

Kind regards,

Tom
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Thanks for the clarification, it was a thought but I’ve never tried to start my car with a fob that doesn’t open the doors.
 
2000 EUR for full brake overhaul? Huh, something is not right there.
Just FYI: I did the following job last year:
front discs + pads + rear drum ''clamps'' ATE = 95 EUR
2x rear drum brake cylinders Meyle = 30 EUR
work for brakes = 60 EUR
brake fluid Audi/VW = 18 EUR
 
So now they called and said that with a fresh battery the engine only ran for 1 second again and suspect that the gauges / instrument panel parts have failed solderings which is causing problems to the immobilizer. They are going to check how much that part would cost and we'll return to it on Monday.

I doubt that they would be lying here, but they might be incompetent. Yes, I should have already just somehow got the car away from that garage but it's not going to cost me anything more to wait until they diagnose it.

EDIT: Hey, I think I found someone else here who had a similar problem with the Instrument Cluster so they might have diagnosed it right: https://www.a2oc.net/community/inde...h-cluster-wont-start.27119/page-3#post-453387

I don't know if it's good or bad luck that the instrument cluster fails on the same day the brakes pipes are broken.
 
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It is an akward situation, when you gotta take the car away and take it to another garage, but you gotta step up or they'll scam you even more and they might cause more damage to the car and saying it was there before.

It's your car, you can take it wherever you please. The other garage could confirm they broke the pipes, due they're not just being incompetent, but they're 99% try to scam you. When you said you take the car away, why are they still looking into buying parts that can cost you a lot? If they come back with a high amount, ask the forum to see how justified it is, which probably won't be.
Speak to the other garage if they'd help you transport the car to their place.
 
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Also check this thread out, the owner is still active here, you'd ask him about details.

Immobiliser problem - HELP!!!!

I've just received a call from the non-VAG but well respected and trusted garage to which my 2001 75TDI was recovered last Wednesday after I was unable to start it. I'd be very much obliged if any knowledgeable member(s) could offer an opinion and advice as to the probable accuracy of the...
www.a2oc.net www.a2oc.net
 
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It is clearly your choice to make here on what to do.
I would have taken the car long away from that garage by now.
 
Ask them (or bring an independent person) to do a diagnostic scan of both ECU and Cluster to confirm immo error or perhaps ECU - Cluster communication issues.
+1 for taking the car somewhere else.
 
Lets hope it is just a case of trying to talk you out of your car and not them trying to cover up something they have damaged while diagnosing / repairing it!!!!
 
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