Shame he is 300 miles away
New A2 owner saying hi from North Yorkshire - need help/advice/parts
- Thread starter nyorker
- Start date
Thanks, that's a fair list to check. It did have a service last year, I think filters were changed then.
I went to South of France and back in an 2010 transporter last year, it lost power 5miles after setting off and we limped there and back in it. The intercooler was the culprit therefore I recognise the sound, I will give it a good listen with Windows down under load.
Will check pipes this morning as I am in child care duties today.
Do I need vagcom to read codes properly or will my cheap elm327 suffice?
Thanks
George Hogg
A2OC Donor
I travel to WOM from Aberdeen…. They are really good.
Yes those things sound entirely possible. Had a drive and tried to hear for leak while driving close to a sound reflective wall or fence, could hear anything. I also restricted the air flow of the rubber air hose downwind of the intercooler for a moment using my fingers to see if I could induce air leak (suction or blowing). I didnt see or hear anything.
So EGR and fuel/air filter seem strong candidates for further investigation.
I need to find someone near by who can read the codes for me.
Thanks for you input...
Ive just rang them to check availability. Will go down in the next week or two to get it done.
BoeingPenny
Member
There are 2 little braided pipes that run under the turbo, known to chafe through. May be worth a quick look.
Before the fuel , air filter change ,After that I’m afraid it’s remove the air intake ( plenty of write ups on it) .
Get access to egr valve , clean said valve , check all turbo pipes seals etc.
Take it you did try cleaning mass air flow sensor ???, and the MAP sensor if it’s a 1.4tdi diesel it sits above the
inter cooler. ( the screws are a pig to get out , caution use CORRECT bit or will round out screws, ) small ratchet and bit holder best to remove them, jam old towel done by cooler first , cos if you drop one ! It disappears into the front bumper somewhere. Been there done that. The mass flow sensor next to the hydraulic reservoir , in the pipe.
cheap tool off eBay for the clamps , worth the money as they too can be a pita.
Before the fuel , air filter change ,After that I’m afraid it’s remove the air intake ( plenty of write ups on it) .
Get access to egr valve , clean said valve , check all turbo pipes seals etc.
Take it you did try cleaning mass air flow sensor ???, and the MAP sensor if it’s a 1.4tdi diesel it sits above the
inter cooler. ( the screws are a pig to get out , caution use CORRECT bit or will round out screws, ) small ratchet and bit holder best to remove them, jam old towel done by cooler first , cos if you drop one ! It disappears into the front bumper somewhere. Been there done that. The mass flow sensor next to the hydraulic reservoir , in the pipe.
cheap tool off eBay for the clamps , worth the money as they too can be a pita.
I have a feeling that the MAP and MAF are OK in as much as they are producing a reading when I look at them through an app using my cheapo ELM327 odbII reader. I will plot some graphs of both readings and see if power fluctuates with any perceived fluctuations in press or air flow.
I will take a look at the pipes... thanks for the heads up on that.
Despite having an invoice for a service that states the fuel filter was changed last year I may just change the fuel filter to be sure. I need to acquire some car ramps first from what I hear.
BoeingPenny
Member
Aye , fuel filter , and air filter ( forgot to say check the air filter box as well ! , oversight on my part ) as if it’s causing air restriction that won’t help matters) or a big hole knocked in .
The fuel filter needs about 4 clamps , if yours is the newer type filter, Not the old metal one , deproman , ( member on forum ) does a really neat new base cover for them as they can shear off, see write ups give you all the details.
The fuel filter needs about 4 clamps , if yours is the newer type filter, Not the old metal one , deproman , ( member on forum ) does a really neat new base cover for them as they can shear off, see write ups give you all the details.
BoeingPenny
Member
Correction Depronman, sorry my bad typing , think it’s called machined drain plug , but if you contact him , he give you all the info.
simon martyn
Member
Get ye down to those merry men in Stoke as soon as possible, and please stop trying things "under load". Thou shallt replace thy cambelt and water pump NOW.
Apologies for the "Rant"
Apologies for the "Rant"
This weekend I discovered the cambelt actually has been done, yay. The car has two service history books of sort. The original Audi one and another one that was in the back of a 3rd party warranty booklet. the servicing garage has been stamping the non-Audi book for a few years. It has been done at 75k.... phew, that saved a few a long trip and fair bit of cash.
BTW I dont think driving it under load would put much more load on a cambelt. Under load for me was 2000RPM in 4th going up hill with foot almost to the floor creating a large demand for fuel/torque. In my opinion, high revs or rapid acceleration/deceleration would place additional stress on cambelt.
I found some time to tackle a few jobs over the weekend. The battery was kaput because of a badly fitted Parrot hands-free kit. It was wired to draw constant current from the battery which lead to the demise of a nice Bosch battery that had been fitted not long ago. Virtually all of the original wiring had been butchered, so after an afternoon of mending the harness, I fitted a Bluemusic BT hands-free kit and kept the original Concert II HU. Photos of what I found attached if anyone wants a giggle. I recommend the Bluemusic kit... €42 delivered from Germany.
Also replaced the dual water thermostat positioned behind right-hand side of the engine. This fixed the P00118 error code which was causing EML light to be permanently lit. However the temp gauge still sits around 70c, would this lead anyone to think its also the thermostat?
Ohh also fixed the cup holder that refused to stay in, quite fiddly but involved replacing a small plastic triangle that snaps frequently I believe. there is a good write up on how to do it somewhere.
While changing the water sensor I unfastened the metal pipe that runs in front of the engine to get better access to the sensor, it had a fair amount of oil in the pipe which is surprising as its upwind of the EGR, does this suggest a problem with valve of EGR that could be causing the lumpy power only under load?
Its been a joy to drive to date.
Jobs left to do
- Fix lumpy running under load
- Fit Cruise control
- Fit centre armrest
- Thermostat replacement ???
- Fix deep paint scratches
If anyone has any advice on the above problems or jobs it would be welcomely received ....
Attachments
PlasticMac
Member
I'm sure you mean you replaced the dual temperature sensor. If so, yes, thermostat next. Be careful, many, not all, non genuine thermostats do what they should.
I'm sure you'll get a few recommendations.
Mac.
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
I like Filbi Bilstein, My first choice after manufacturer parts, I fit their parts to Merc, Porsche and Audi. Never had a problem.
kp 115
A2OC Donor
Hi nyorker,
Try having a look at this guys work ,
No connection with seller just a satisfied customer.
Bought a kit for our Q5 as a number of chips & bad scratch repairs appear as I wash it !!
Hope that helps
Keith.
My last thermostat replacement was a Febi Bilstein as they could be delivered overnight off Amazon. As the incumbent stat had failed closed (meaning I drove 550 miles overnight to Plymouth at 55-60mph with heating on full and windows open to stay below 91˚C indicated !) it was urgently needed. Still in situ and working fine 14 months later.