New wifi dongle codes
- Thread starter scott
- Start date
a2sumo
A2OC Donor
http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread.php?8692-fault-p1031
search and you will find----looks like manifold flap not reaching set points. My fsi is going in next week for the same issue. cheers mike
search and you will find----looks like manifold flap not reaching set points. My fsi is going in next week for the same issue. cheers mike
scott
A2OC Donor
Great! The mechanic that recently changed an injectors said something was "already broken" on the manifold flap!!?
If you don't mind could you let me know how you get on with your repair.
Thanks
Scott,
And sorry sometimes I'm to quick to ask and forget I can search these things.
If you don't mind could you let me know how you get on with your repair.
Thanks
Scott,
And sorry sometimes I'm to quick to ask and forget I can search these things.
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manhattan$
Past Member
I have the same code.
I need to check to see if the plastic rod is broken. If not, i have heard some Wynns EGR 3 cleaner 'could' fix it by cleaning?
I need to check to see if the plastic rod is broken. If not, i have heard some Wynns EGR 3 cleaner 'could' fix it by cleaning?
scott
A2OC Donor
fbi
Member
It's the rod that makes the flaps move in the manifold.
Unfortunately, it's not replaceable, it's part of the manifold assembly
(a £300 part and say, 4 hours work for a professional)
Mine has this error code too
But I don't know what the cause is. It can be a broken rod, stuck/broken flap(s), a defective vacuum actuator, a defective potentiometer (what measures the position of the flaps), a defective hose or loom, ...
I once had a look, but could find out if the rod was broken or not.
Unfortunately, it's not replaceable, it's part of the manifold assembly
(a £300 part and say, 4 hours work for a professional)Mine has this error code too
But I don't know what the cause is. It can be a broken rod, stuck/broken flap(s), a defective vacuum actuator, a defective potentiometer (what measures the position of the flaps), a defective hose or loom, ...
I once had a look, but could find out if the rod was broken or not.
scott
A2OC Donor
It's the rod that makes the flaps move in the manifold.
Unfortunately, it's not replaceable, it's part of the manifold assembly
Mine has this error code too
But I don't know what the cause is. It can be a broken rod, stuck/broken flap(s), a defective vacuum actuator, a defective potentiometer (what measures the position of the flaps), a defective hose or loom, ...
I once had a look, but could find out if the rod was broken or not.
That's what my mechanic said, it's the rod and you can't just buy the Broken part
audi Atwo
Past Member
Hi Scott I had a mechanic do exactly what you are describing he used tweezer pliers trying to take off the snapped arm of the vacuum connected to the rod and he broke it in half, he ended up trying to glue the half that he broke off but it doesn't work as the heat from the engine makes the glue unstick I ended up taking my car to an Audi professional in Dartford cost inc labour parts and vat was £720 takes a few days as well. 6stings this doesn't normally break unless an inexperienced non Audi mechanic gets their hand on it but the vacuum has been known to snap.
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manhattan$
Past Member
Where can i find this Rod? Or does it need dismantling to see if its broken?
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a2sumo
A2OC Donor
Hi guys. I have just got my car back from A2cars after Tony had the job of investigating my broken actuator rod. I was fortunate to have a replacement actuator (available on its own approx £80) and also an inlet flap assembly. Once the broken arm was removed it was clear that the flaps were not able to move across their whole movement so it meant the inlet flap assembly was to be replaced.
Now I have the car back it is super smooth quieter due to the flaps not being stuck open all the time. To be honest I would not have done the repair had it not been for the dreaded EML illuminatetd on the dash, as the car ran well and still returned 45+mpg on average.
I will post a picture or to later on of my old flap assembly and try and see what has caused it to become stiff and limit the movement. I was interested to know how much carbon was in the inlet tract and on the backs of the valves (due to direct injection this can be cause for rough running) but was pleased to hear that Tony said they were clear with only slight shooting to the backs of the valves. So for 136k miles I'm happy that TESCO momentum is burning clean.
My gut feeling is the flaps are stuck due to egr valve pollution. So I'm going to blank it off at the manifold and then make a concerted effort on getting the egr blank machined up at work (been saying that for two years!
Cheers Mike.
To find the rod and see if it is broken is easy to do. As you look at the engine from the front of the car -look at the back of the engine on the timing belt end -it can be seen just there it's small and black if you carefully try and lift it with long nosed plyers , if it won't wiggle it's fine. If it is possible to move it about then it has broken off at the ball end.
Now I have the car back it is super smooth quieter due to the flaps not being stuck open all the time. To be honest I would not have done the repair had it not been for the dreaded EML illuminatetd on the dash, as the car ran well and still returned 45+mpg on average.
I will post a picture or to later on of my old flap assembly and try and see what has caused it to become stiff and limit the movement. I was interested to know how much carbon was in the inlet tract and on the backs of the valves (due to direct injection this can be cause for rough running) but was pleased to hear that Tony said they were clear with only slight shooting to the backs of the valves. So for 136k miles I'm happy that TESCO momentum is burning clean.
My gut feeling is the flaps are stuck due to egr valve pollution. So I'm going to blank it off at the manifold and then make a concerted effort on getting the egr blank machined up at work (been saying that for two years!
Cheers Mike.
To find the rod and see if it is broken is easy to do. As you look at the engine from the front of the car -look at the back of the engine on the timing belt end -it can be seen just there it's small and black if you carefully try and lift it with long nosed plyers , if it won't wiggle it's fine. If it is possible to move it about then it has broken off at the ball end.
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audi Atwo
Past Member
A2sumo is spot on we're to find the actuator on both diesel and petrol of a possible snapped arm, here's a pic of my old broken petrol fsi rod that it connects to. This part is not as easy to locate as its down mid engine left hand side with the belt and cover next to it 
The black plastic bit in second pic is the part that used to have a rod sticking out for the actuator to attach to to activate the manifold flaps, hope this will help
John
The black plastic bit in second pic is the part that used to have a rod sticking out for the actuator to attach to to activate the manifold flaps, hope this will help
John
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manhattan$
Past Member
Sorry about the poor picture quality, but is this the black plastic rod that you use the long nose pliers on? Its below the two silver pipes and between the two bolts.
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