Reverse gear stuck

[Pat Barn]

Hello All.

After years of longing I finally bought my first A2 a few months ago, and love it, best small car I have ever owned.

Unfortunately the other day the car got stuck in reverse gear and after reading all the advice that I could find the problem is persisting.
Anymore advice greatly appreciated.
This is how it has gone so far

1. Stuck in reverse. Got it out by moving selector lever on top of the gearbox.
2. There is very little play in the gearbox tower and all gears select fine with the shifter tower on the box.
3. I Adjusted the shifter cables (dieselgeek way)
4. Better shift selection but after 2-3 shifts into reverse it got stuck again.
5. Re-adjusted cables but same result.
6. Then on the third attempt to adjust the cables the up/down Bowden catch broke!
7. My suspicion is that the problem is with the shifter box but I have found very little information about that, and from what I have found out the box needs to come out from underneath. Unfortunately I don't have a hoist or ramps so am not keen to start that without some helpful advice.

Or does anyone know of a knowledgeable A2 mechanic in East Cornwall / Plymouth area.

I have seen Bowden catches on Ebay but not sure on the quality, is there a reputable supplier ?
Any pointers greatly appreciated.

 

[Deleted member 20348]

Hi,
Petrol or diesel? What is the mileage?

I'd renew the tower and do a gearbox oil change.

The new selector tower designs need the lower seat change over as there longer so I've read.

Is you bonnet water collector (drain) in good condition?

Are you able to add what you mean by bowden selector.
Is it this...?

Edit
Did you remove the reverse light switch to see if the problem went away? This a a long shot but thought I'd mention it as it easy to test.

 

[Pat Barn]

Hi Rotifer.

Diesel 75. 2002.
Around 180,000 miles.

Yes the water catcher is in place, generally it is very clean and tidy under the bonnet, obviously has been well looked after.

Yes I do mean the cable end clips.
It has the push on type, that I assume pop off with a bit of force.

I’ve noticed a number of people changing the tower and having good results.
2 things made me hesitate about that.
1. There isn’t a lot of play at the top, quite tight. And it moves up/down & returns on the spring.
2. It is easy to select gears with the tower.

That said as I understand it it’s probably easier to do the tower & oil than get the shifter box out.

 

[Deleted member 20348]

Yes, totally and if you do the maintenance and end up having to buy a second hand gearbox you can use the new parts you bought to improve it.
Plus if your at all like me, collect the new oil you put in the junk gearbox for the second hand unit
Could you let me know what the shifter box is please. I'm not familiar with it
Do you mean this?

 

[Deleted member 20348]

Had a bit of time to think about your answer now.

180,000 miles shouldn't be a problem if the gearbox oil has been changed a couple of times.
If it hasn't been changed I would buy 2 litres of 75W90 and do an oil change. Once you have done that you will know a little more about the condition of the old oil and if the new oil made any difference to the gearbox selectors.
I have just put 2ltrs in my tdi MAL gearbox.

This is not the recommend oil.

You will require a gearbox oil plug hex bit

Good luck!

 

[Little Dog]

The tower works with the cables diconected?
With the cables disconnected from the tower do they still jam if you operate the gear lever?

 

[Robin_Cox]

Could it be a knackered bowden outer or fraying cable between gear-lever and the selector on top of the box? If that is the case then it is a problem as there aren't easily-available new replacements for these yet.

 

[Little Dog]

Could it be a knackered bowden outer or fraying cable between gear-lever and the selector on top of the box? If that is the case then it is a problem as there aren't easily-available new replacements for these yet.

That is what I was going to conclude if the disconnected cables snag when shifting.

 

[Deleted member 20348]

Easy way to check for snags in the cable would be to remove those ball joint cable ends.



The gear stick cable couplers are less accessible but they don't need to be removed for testing purposes.


The cable mount that sits atop the gearbox could also be checked




This support arm bends easily check its not putting stress on the cable

 

[Pat Barn]

Thanks so much everyone.
If no rain I’ll have a look at all that this afternoon this afternoon.
One other thing has just occurred to me. I changed the starter motor last month and had to move the counter weight a lot to get access, could this have caused the problem?

 

[Deleted member 20348]

Hi,
This is the order I would proceed

1. Remove metal alloy air inlet pipe
2. Remove near side drain for bonnet (see above image)
3. Remove Bowden cable ends using an open ended spanner as a lever
4. Remove the counter weight
5. Remove the swing arm assembly
6. Check the free movement of cables
7. Check gear cable mount bolts are tight
8. Check the cable stay isn't bent up or downwards and exerting pressure on the outer cable
9. Remove the reverse switch and check its not damaged at the ball bearing end

Clean everything use silicon grease on the moving plastic on metal parts.
Petrol gearbox parts share some similarly to diesels these parts need a clean though!

Good luck



It's anyone's guess what happened when you fitted the starter. We just don't know the answer to that rhetorical question.
The counter weight is made of strong stuff don't worry about it, just buy a new selector tower if you think it got damaged



What makes me optimistic about this gearbox snag getting fixed is you positive approach to dealing with it, keep up the good work! You'll get there.

Cif cream cleaner, old tooth brush and a sink covered in oil particles.

 

[Howey]

Thanks so much everyone.
If no rain I’ll have a look at all that this afternoon this afternoon.
One other thing has just occurred to me. I changed the starter motor last month and had to move the counter weight a lot to get access, could this have caused the problem?

That shouldn't be possible, as shown with the master spline In the above picture but some folk have managed it somehow!

 

[Pat Barn]

I am on it today.
Does the counter weight just pull up and off after removing the nut. It is a bit stuck if so.

Anyone know where I can buy decent replacement bowden cable end clips; I have looked in alll my usual places but can't find good looking ones.

 

[Little Dog]

Yes, pull it up. I think I used a bearing puller.

 

[Robin_Cox]

I am on it today.
Does the counter weight just pull up and off after removing the nut. It is a bit stuck if so.

Anyone know where I can buy decent replacement bowden cable end clips; I have looked in alll my usual places but can't find good looking ones.

I got a couple of these when the gearbox was swapped. Worked fine.

1J0711761A is the part number on the A2 - you need the one that clicks onto the ball on the selector lever ends.

Topran branded ones are what I got.

Avoid the same part number with B at the end - that's for the version where the connector is secured by a wee metal retaining clip (looks very similar, used on TT etc.)

 

[Deleted member 20348]

Hello @Pat Barn,

it is most likely that you know the following selector set up procedure to set the gear linkage.

However for those who are reading this and are also a bit stuck with their gears.....


Page 40 & 41 from the document
AUDI A2 - Engine and Gearbox
Design and Function
Self-study programme 247