Selector noise insulation (?) repair.

Hejira

New Member
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During the course of repairs I came across this part (directly underneath the leather gear stick boot), which doesn’t seem to appear in ElsaWin and I can’t find anything similar on the net. I’m assuming it’s for noise insulation? It’s in pretty poor condition, with a hole in the rubber boot bit. Is it worth repairing this or should I just replace it as is? Does anybody know the correct name/number for the part? Thanks.


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If the hole was on the lower left side when the insulator was fitted then it has been made to allow access to the rigging location to set up the gear selector mechanism. I would just refit as is.
 
Whilst it's somewhat unsightly and not exactly what you'd call engineered, the hole in the rubber gaiter is there for a reason. It allows you to insert the locking pin into the gear stick assembly when carrying out a gear linkage alignment.
The rest of the item you've photographed above is indeed in a tatty state, though I rarely dismantle an A2 and find this piece in any better condition. The hardened coating on the top of the large foam section is always very brittle, with little flaked sections. I'd not be overly concerned and would pop it back in as it is. My A2's gearbox has done 232k miles and changes gear beautifully despite this piece being in the same state as yours.

Regarding your fight with poor gear selection, I'd recommend doing the following in this order...
- The selector tower drops into the gearbox from above through a clever bearing. This bearing has to cope with both side-to-side movement and up-and-down movement. As it wears, the selector tower starts to sit slightly skewed. This wear will only have been accelerated by the lack of the counterweight. A worn bearing can also allow a small amount of water ingress, which further harms the bearing and emulsifies the gearbox oil.
- Change the gearbox oil. Audi state that it's sealed for life, but that's a total nonsense.
- Fit a counterweight to the gearbox selector tower. When your mum owned the car, I pointed out that this piece was missing, though I somehow doubt it was sorted.
- Once all the above has been sorted, the gearbox linkages need realignment.

Replacing the gearbox tower bearing isn't a job I'd recommend doing yourself; it's the sort of job that you get better at with experience. It also requires a special tool or two. Marcus at WOM Automotive has done it oodles of times and is the master. It's a surprisingly cheap part and a quick job for someone who can do it blindfolded. If I remember correctly, it can be replaced for approximately £85 inc. parts and labour.

You know it never has been easy
Whether you do or you do not resign
Whether you travel the breadth of extremities
Or stick to some straighter line

Cheers,

Tom
 
In any case, the gaiter / insulation part is NLA from VAG. I asked last year....

As everything below it is still inside the bodyshell, I don't see it as doing much harm. It's not keeping the weather out.
 
I repaired mine with some super glue and push bike inner tube, after I have stripped the ball and socket assy down and cleaned out all the rubber bits, boy did that improve the gear change
 
Item 26?


Ah yes, thank you. Some of the ElsaWin diagrams seem to imply it doesn't exist.

Regarding your fight with poor gear selection, I'd recommend doing the following in this order...
- The selector tower drops into the gearbox from above through a clever bearing. This bearing has to cope with both side-to-side movement and up-and-down movement. As it wears, the selector tower starts to sit slightly skewed. This wear will only have been accelerated by the lack of the counterweight. A worn bearing can also allow a small amount of water ingress, which further harms the bearing and emulsifies the gearbox oil.
- Change the gearbox oil. Audi state that it's sealed for life, but that's a total nonsense.
- Fit a counterweight to the gearbox selector tower. When your mum owned the car, I pointed out that this piece was missing, though I somehow doubt it was sorted.
- Once all the above has been sorted, the gearbox linkages need realignment.

Replacing the gearbox tower bearing isn't a job I'd recommend doing yourself; it's the sort of job that you get better at with experience. It also requires a special tool or two. Marcus at WOM Automotive has done it oodles of times and is the master. It's a surprisingly cheap part and a quick job for someone who can do it blindfolded. If I remember correctly, it can be replaced for approximately £85 inc. parts and labour.

You are correct in your assumption - my mother complained bitterly about the gearbox but did nothing to ameliorate the problem. Ironically, the stiff shifting is the reason she gave for giving the car up. She's had quite longstanding cervical radiculopathy, and seems to believe the A2 gearbox made it worse; why she chose not to fix the problem is a mystery to me. I'm not complaining though, since it means the car passed to me :) (I think the main reason she got rid was because she wanted a new car, but her emotional attachment to the A2 meant it had to be justified).

Personally, I don't think it's that bad. It does feel a bit like it's filled with lego, but I've got used to it very quickly and have shifting mishaps (usually struggling to get into 4th) fairly infrequently now. The Micra's transmission wasn't exactly silky smooth, and given that the A2 out-performs her in pretty much every other way it's a minor inconvenience! Nonetheless, it's not performing as it should, so naturally I want to fix it. I already have the means to do the oil change and the realignment, but I realise I may have to put that on hold for now. Thing is...if I'm spending the time/effort/money going to WOM automotive, there's a part of me that just wants to wait until I can afford to have a 6 gear box fitted, which is my ultimate goal. Though the A2 certainly feels a lot less ridiculous on the motorway (sometimes the squeal of the Micra's revs at 70mph would prompt me to check she really was in 5th, and on hills I often shifted to 4th to avoid rapid deceleration or to overtake), it still feels like it should have a 6th gear. From previous posts it seems this mod costs up to £900 (though, I appreciate the price may have increased)? So, if I just did all but change the bearing for now, do you think that would make an appreciable difference?
 
Have you tried resetting the selector cables for the gear change. Really can make a big difference?
 
Someone has gone to a lot of effort to saw that off. Just...why...??????

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No reason to remove the weight, either heavy handed mechanic broke it off or faulty casting.
 
That won't help the gear change action, suggest you replace the weight and see if this makes an improvement.
 
Yes the weight will need to be replaced, but as it costs nothing apart from some time then why not reset the cables as the do work hard and are at least 14 years old.
 
I have come across it as a 'mod' in boy racer forums with some claiming it's an improvement...but presumably it was put there for a reason!

The part no. seems to be either 8Z0711051D or 8Z0711051E, but I'm unsure of the difference, if there is one? https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+a2/a2/2003-248/7/711-711030/#49

The PR codes relate to the following models:

PRCode: T0U = 3-cylinder diesel engine 1.4 L unit 045.B
PRCode: T1Q = 4-cylinder gasoline engine 1.4 L unit 036.D (aluminum)
PRCode: T60 = 3-cylinder diesel engine 1.4 L unit 045.D
PRCode: T94 = 4-cylinder gasoline engine 1.6 L unit 036.N
 
Ah yes, thank you. Some of the ElsaWin diagrams seem to imply it doesn't exist.



You are correct in your assumption - my mother complained bitterly about the gearbox but did nothing to ameliorate the problem. Ironically, the stiff shifting is the reason she gave for giving the car up. She's had quite longstanding cervical radiculopathy, and seems to believe the A2 gearbox made it worse; why she chose not to fix the problem is a mystery to me. I'm not complaining though, since it means the car passed to me :) (I think the main reason she got rid was because she wanted a new car, but her emotional attachment to the A2 meant it had to be justified).

Personally, I don't think it's that bad. It does feel a bit like it's filled with lego, but I've got used to it very quickly and have shifting mishaps (usually struggling to get into 4th) fairly infrequently now. The Micra's transmission wasn't exactly silky smooth, and given that the A2 out-performs her in pretty much every other way it's a minor inconvenience! Nonetheless, it's not performing as it should, so naturally I want to fix it. I already have the means to do the oil change and the realignment, but I realise I may have to put that on hold for now. Thing is...if I'm spending the time/effort/money going to WOM automotive, there's a part of me that just wants to wait until I can afford to have a 6 gear box fitted, which is my ultimate goal. Though the A2 certainly feels a lot less ridiculous on the motorway (sometimes the squeal of the Micra's revs at 70mph would prompt me to check she really was in 5th, and on hills I often shifted to 4th to avoid rapid deceleration or to overtake), it still feels like it should have a 6th gear. From previous posts it seems this mod costs up to £900 (though, I appreciate the price may have increased)? So, if I just did all but change the bearing for now, do you think that would make an appreciable difference?
In case you didn't know, member @depronman provides a long 5th gear conversion, thread...
 
In case you didn't know, member @depronman provides a long 5th gear conversion, thread...

Have already bookmarked, but thanks :)


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Thing is...if I'm spending the time/effort/money going to WOM automotive, there's a part of me that just wants to wait until I can afford to have a 6 gear box fitted, which is my ultimate goal.

As the owner of a TDI75, you're perhaps better off converting your existing gearbox to 6-speed rather than fitting a 6-speed MYP gearbox. As such, a replaced shift tower bearing would be carried across to the 6-speed 'box, thus not wasting your efforts/money/time.

You can fit an MYP 'box to a TDI75, but the MYP 'box has a larger bell-housing to accommodate a dual-mass flywheel. The TDI75 has a single-mass flywheel. The result can cause issues with starter motor engagement. Personally, I believe an unmodified MYP gearbox is only perfectly suited to the TDI90, which has a dual-mass flywheel.
You can 'hybridise' an MYP gearbox by fitting the smaller bell-housing from your existing gearbox in order to make an MYP gearbox that's perfectly suited to the TDI75, but this involves much more work. If you're going to go to that effort, you're perhaps better going down the route of adding a 6th gear to your existing 5-speed 'box, which remains (to my mind, at least) the most mechanically elegant way of obtaining 6 gears.

Though the A2 certainly feels a lot less ridiculous on the motorway, it still feels like it should have a 6th gear.
Completely agree. My 6th gear just feels 'right'. Whenever I now drive a 5-speed A2, I really feel that something is missing.

It's worth noting, though, that the payback time for any 6-speed 'box is loooong. At the time I had my gearbox converted, I calculated that I'd have to do 120,000 miles in 6th gear before I broke even. Of course, there are many reasons to do it besides saving money, but unless you're doing lots of motorway miles, it's unquestionably just an expensive luxury.

I remain a fan of the longer 5th setup, despite now having a 6-speed 'box. However, I'm adamant that it needs to be thought of as a change rather than as an upgrade. It's a compromise solution that provides some pros and some cons; whether or not it's suitable for you depends greatly on your use of the car.
I predominantly do motorway miles, so my previous longer 5th setup would frequently save me money due to the increase in fuel economy at motorway speeds. However, I also do a fair amount of driving in mountainous areas, where I would essentially only have 4 gears due to the longer 5th being inaccessible in such environments. In these circumstances, the longer 5th ratio would effectively cost me money. On the whole, I saved, but many A2 owners with the longer 5th find that their average fuel economy does not go up by much, if at all. Sometimes, all that's gained from the mod is a quieter drive when motorway cruising - which alone can be a good justification for the change.
Personally, I find the longer 5th is a down-grade in terms of the vehicle's 'driveability'. On a winding A-road (or in a 50mph speed limit on the motorway) I found managing the larger gap between 4th and 5th really tiresome. When doing longer cross-country routes, I found it quite draining to have to continually choose between rev'ing it harder in 4th or spluttering slightly in 5th; it requires much more concentration on an aspect of driving that's normally a subconscious process. Low-rev, high-load scenarios (such as trying to accelerate from 45mph in longer 5th) are terrible for your engine and gearbox, meaning the lower limits of the longer 5th's capabilities ought not be explored too often.
For those who use their A2 almost exclusively as a motorway cruiser, it's a very good option; compared to a 6-speed 'box, its pay-back time is relatively short and it makes driving at speed a whole lot more comfortable. But it's not without its drawbacks.

So, if I just did all but change the bearing for now, do you think that would make an appreciable difference?
It could do - it all depends on how badly worn the bearing is. The bearing could be 98% of the problem. If it's letting in water, you'll only emulsify your new gearbox oil. I'd suggest that doing everything on my list, along with cleaning out the ball joint as suggested by @depronman, should be done in one hit. You'll probably be amazed by the difference.
No need to buy a new counterweight, by the way; I'm sure someone will have one from a failed gearbox. It's just a lump of metal, so mileage and age is irrelevant.

Cheers,

Tom
 
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