Starter motor re-grease

C

Craig

Member
So has anybody done this recently? I took mine off today with help from the how-to and am i right in saying its the top part that you take off and re-grease?? That's what i did, cleaned and greased it put back together fitted back on car but it's still bloody whining :mad:
An ideas:confused:
 
You normally grease the shaft that the gear slides on, the gear is moved in and out via the solenoid on the top of the starter, sometimes called the pig.

Cheers
 
Which part in this picture Paul? Starter01.jpg

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Could be wrong but I think when I did it I greased the internals of the piece numbered 7


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Make sure you don't get any grease on the main gear as it may contaminate the clutch/flywheel


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yeah that's what i greased part #7 and has the cylinder & spring inside it
 
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the shaft of No9 and the inner bore of No10 is what I would be greasing

I have never done the starter on the A2, but done plenty on other cars that where squealing and it was always the shaft that needed the lubrication. You don't want to put loads of grease on it, a little goes a long way. There is little chance of the grease getting onto the clutch as the clutch will be spinning when the car as started, plus the clutch pressure plate covers 90% of the spinner plate

So in short, yes, I think you have lubed the wrong parts :)
 
Great at least it's only a 10 min job getting it off
This is the grease I used castrol multi purpose
IMG_20170202_202505.jpg
Or I have this one Molly grease IMG_20170202_202528.jpg
Which do you think is best?

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I would use the molly grease, as it leaves a molly coating so even when the grease migrates away the molly coating will still lube the shaft
 
has anyone any ideas on how to split starter motor from bellhousing 2002 1.4tdi 86,760miles , I don't think it has ever been removed from new starter is getting lazy but seized on solid to bell housing , I also cleaned ALL earth points at battery and underneath at engine to body to no help so only option is oot with the starter if I can get it without damaging anything thanks for any help advice
mark
 
Maybe give it a tap with a hammer or prize it with a crow bar

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Craig said:
Maybe give it a tap with a hammer or prize it with a crow bar

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Click to expand...
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or put the bolts back in but not tight and try spinning the starter a couple of very brief clicks, ensuring that when / if it does free itself it is not loose enough to cause problems.

Steve B
 
Birchall said:
.
or put the bolts back in but not tight and try spinning the starter a couple of very brief clicks, ensuring that when / if it does free itself it is not loose enough to cause problems.

Steve B
Click to expand...

Yeah this is what i would do. That, or a bit of persuasion with a lump hammer.
 
I take it this is what I need to grease, the spline bit
IMG_20170203_131430.jpgIMG_20170203_131433.jpg

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I ended up taking it all apart greasing the other spline and now I can't put this back in

IMG_20170203_143851.jpg

It's bloody impossible without them falling out grrr

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No, that is the input to the planetary gearbox. But a bit of grease on the planetary gears is ok. You need to grease the sliding parts of the output and maybe the solenoid too. On mine the solenoid plunger was slowing down the return as the grease was old and dried-out. I cleaned and then oiled the plunger and greased the output pinion shaft on both its splines inside and the smooth part that goes through the red oil seal in the cast output housing.
When I took out my starter to fix the squeal I tried pulling the pinion out by hand and the return took probably 0.25 seconds. After cleaning and lubrication it was popping back rapidly, and no squeal since. I should say that I decided to use oil inside the solenoid as it seems to be air-sealed and I tried grease but it was too slow to return with no air path except leakage around the sliding plunger.


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tried hammer without stripping down to much of engine bay so limited space it has been soaked in wd40 around flange for weeks now and I'm using it still so the loosen bolt and jag trick sounds a great idea localised heat I don't think would work as both allu parts to split thanks guys will give that a go the morra

mark
 
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