Information TDI 90 Cam belt change

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AMG

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Hi everyone. Here is a tutorial I did for the French forum. If you have questions about it or something that you cannot translate, ......mail!
 
Hi Xiter
The two e.bay items for locking the engine and adjusting the tensioner pulley are the ones I used for my AMF engine.
On my 2001 TDi, the crankshaft pulley was held on with hex socket allen screws which were a pig to remove. The replacements were were 12 point socket screws (not torx) so it would be worth checking what you have on your car to ensure you have the correct bit to remove / replace them.

Cheers Spike
 
Thanks guys. I'm replacing the water pump as well. Would the generator and AC compressor belt be a good idea to replace as well? Cambelt will be changed at approx 110-120k kms (70k miles).
 
Might be a good idea to change the auxiliary belt; if you don't, mark it and replace it in the same way it came off, otherwise it won't last very long. You may also need a locking pin for the aux. belt tensioner. It's easier to just unbolt the tensioner when you remove it without locking it. Once removed lock it in a vice with the pin. When replacing it, there's not much room to unlock with a spanner and take the pin out!

RAB
 
Tools involved in the cambelt change ordered. However I couldn't find a locking pin for the auxiliary belt tensioner but it shouldn't be too hard to make one.
 
Xiter said:
The tools are here. Spike, take a look at the attached pdf. Are the screws you were talking about pos 8?
Click to expand...

That's the ones. Looks like they have changed from the recessed allen key or 12point fasteners to hex head bolts.

I used an old drill shank to lock the alternator belt tensioner. Pick a drill which is a sloppy fit or it will be almost impossible to get it out again.

The cambelt kit sounds reasonable but its always worth checking prices with your local Audi dealer.

Cheers Spike
 
Been there, done that, but certainly didn't buy the t-shirt.
Prices from local Audi dealer converted to £ are:

038198119C Cambelt kit £175
045121011HX Water pump (referbished) £59
045903137D Auxiliary belt £18
045903315A Auxiliary belt tensioner £72

Grand total: £324




 
Well, I could never think of any downside to living in Sweden until I saw those prices.
The auxiliary (alternator) belt tensioners rarely give problems so you could leave that off the list.

Cheers Spike
 
Thanks, Spike,
I can't believe my local dealer's nerve. A diesel service kit would set me back £98. The UK seller charges £55.60 for the same parts. Will take the tensioner off the list as suggested. I've contacted the UK seller through his website where the auxiliary belt and water pump also were advertised.
However, the waterpump priced at £58.57 can't compete with my local dealer...You must be able to get them cheaper than that? The diesel servicekit at £55.60 looks tempting, though.
 
Xiter said:
I'm having a very competent mechanic helping me with the cambelt change but I'd like to provide him with the special tools to speed things up a bit. Now, is this what I need? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Timing-Belt-L...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3353c8b29f
Click to expand...

Take care with the crankshaft locking tool as there are two different ones, one for 1.2's, 1.4's and early 1.9's and another for later 1.9's. On the first the alignment mark is the 'short' side just under the black knob, whilst on the second it is on the other side, near to the edge. The second one will also not fit correctly on a 1.2 or a 1.4.

RAB
 
I'll be soon replacing the cambelt, water pump and aux belt with the help of a friend. So was thinking of doing some prep work. Do the right hand side inner wheel arch need to come off when replacing the cambelt? Last time I had it off it was a pig to remove so I better get it out of the way beforehand.
 
Xiter said:
. Do the right hand side inner wheel arch need to come off when replacing the cambelt? Last time I had it off it was a pig to remove so I better get it out of the way beforehand.
Click to expand...

Not sure if it is 100% necessary but I removed the inner wheeel arch when I did my car.
More info here - http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showpost.php?p=37627&postcount=9
Note that I was lucky in not needing to slacken the camshaft pulley bolts but its good practice to do so otherwise the timing could be out

Cheers Spike
 
Yes, remove the arch liner, otherwise seeing the important bits is a lot harder. To be honest, removing the wheel arch liner is the easiest bit!

Cheers,

Mike
 
Thanks guys. The removal of the liner was easier this time since I came up with the brilliant idea of removing the little bracket that holds the brake pipe. Pic attached. I took my time cleaning available areas and pieces and had a good look around. But what I don't understand is why the engine needs to be lowered? What am I missing here? It looks like there is enough space to remove the belt pulley/vibration damper as it is. Pic attached.
 
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