Information TDI 90 Cam belt change

I can't remember just why you need to lower the front of the engine but you have to remove the front engine mount for access to the tensioner and idler pulleys anyway. This means supporting the engine while the mount is off so lowering the engine slightly does not involve any extra dismantling

Cheers Spike
 
Lowering the engine allows easier access to the engine mount bolts that go into the block (do NOT remove the engine mount by undoing the central bolt that goes into the rubber section).

You can't do the job without removing the mount entirely - it's not sufficient to just unbolt it from the chassis.

Cheers,

Mike
 
Another question, should the hose which goes from the air cooler to the intake manifold (see attached pic) be a a tight fit to the intake manifold? It can be moved slightly.
 
It is important to slacken the camshaft sprocket bolts and turn the sprocket clockwise as far as you can (as per instructions), otherwise when you come to tension the belt, you will only be tensioning one half of the belt!

RAB
 
I've included a pic of the engine mounting. Pos 3, 5 and 8 will need to be unbolted and pos 1 left as is?
 
Correct, you should not remove 1 unless replacing the mount.

RAB
 
I presume because it is set up as a damper and undoing it would change the setting. There's no need to anyway.

RAB
 
Thanks, is the left side of the engine (gearbox side) okay to leave as is?
I premuse it will rotate slightly in the mount when the right side is lowered. It is not mentioned in the manual to loosen anything there, but I thought I'd ask anyway.
 
No leave the left side alone. It will rotate but you will find that useful when you put everything back together!

RAB
 
Just wanted to say thanks to everyone here on the forum who has helped me with information regarding the cambelt change. The job is now done without any problems. However, the manual didn't cover the type of tensioner in my BHC engine. Pics of the tensioner attached.
 
According to EKTA, the part no. is 045 109 243 F and is identical to that fitted to ATL and and later AMF engines. Earlier AMF engines had two other roller's, first 045 109 243 C (same as that fitted to all 1.2Tdi's), which was then replaced by 045 109 243 M in 2000. The latter was replaced in 2001.

RAB
 
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You're right about the part numbers. Now why I assumed the tensioner was different than the one in the manual: The mechanic helping me out did not need the T10008 locking plate tool suggested by the manual (see attached pic) nor did he use the 4 mm drill mentioned in the manual to set the tension. Instead he set the tension by placing the arrow of the tensioner in the middle of the cutout, see attached pic once again. Right or wrong, now I am not sure. He seemed confident it was the way to do it.
 
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I believe, looking at Elsawin, that the procedure is the same as previous tensioners, except that using the hexagonal hole in your tensioner (clearly shown) allows you to use an Allen key in place of the tensioning tool.

Do you have a hydraulic or mechanical damper? If hydraulic, you should have used the 4mm drill. If mechanical, the tensioner should be turned clockwise until the pointer aligns with the notch on the back plate.

RAB
 
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Looking at Ekta, the BHC does not have a hydraulic damper, so the setup is correct if by 'cutout' you mean the notch to the right in the picture.

RAB
 
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Thank you RAB, your replies are very much appretiated. You can see the new tensioner in my previous post (IMG_4152) in the very location we set it. I hope that is correct because I had a very bad night's sleep yesterday...I believe the part of the tensioner you call notch is the same as what I call cutout.
 
That is correct. My Sealey instructions also state that the pointer may be up to 5mm to the right of the notch.

RAB
 
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