Today I.....

[A2Steve]

hi steve, heres one they always forget,
the little rod in vacuum actuator keeps the flaps in right position when refitting the lower manifold
hope this helps

Audi think of everything don't they.

I'm actually planning to remove the flaps completely. I have a friend in Germany who did this to an FSI with persistent set-point not reached faults and it completely eliminated the fault. I don't want to be delving into it twice.

 

[PlasticMac]

Audi think of everything don't they.

I'm actually planning to remove the flaps completely. I have a friend in Germany who did this to an FSI with persistent set-point not reached faults and it completely eliminated the fault. I don't want to be delving into it twice.

You'll have to do something to the ECU, to make it think there's a potentiometer that's moving to the appropriate position for the engine curve.
Why not just get a working manifold assembly together?
Mac.

 

[A2Steve]

You'll have to do something to the ECU, to make it think there's a potentiometer that's moving to the appropriate position for the engine curve.
Why not just get a working manifold assembly together?
Mac.

The potentiometer will still be in place. The flaps are secured to the rod that runs between them by very small torx screws. I plan to remove the flaps from the rod only. Everything else will still be in place but there will be no resistance to cause set-point not met errors.

I've got a working manifold here, i just want to try something new.

 

[Andrew]

Audi think of everything don't they.

I'm actually planning to remove the flaps completely. I have a friend in Germany who did this to an FSI with persistent set-point not reached faults and it completely eliminated the fault. I don't want to be delving into it twice.

FSI lower intake manifold flap removal.

I expect you will succeed in removing the flaps I think you have done it before but something suddenly dawned on me the other week. The access for the little hex head bolts that fix the flaps is awkward and I am scared of mangling a bolt head to two but inspiration struck me of how to retrieve the situation if I or anyone did. My suggestion involves the 8 core plugs that run across the top of the manifold, most likely there I expect for use in the factory manifold assembly and introduction of these bolts. Each core plug roughly sits above a bolt, remove the one above your mangled head and a better access is achieved. Then either try unscrewing again or drill it out.

The catch is a source is needed for these core plugs.

Just an idea.

Andy

 

[PlasticMac]

The potentiometer will still be in place. The flaps are secured to the rod that runs between them by very small torx screws. I plan to remove the flaps from the rod only. Everything else will still be in place but there will be no resistance to cause set-point not met errors.

I've got a working manifold here, i just want to try something new.

OK, so, the ECU will be in blissfull ignorance.
With no actual flaps fitted, is there a "stop" that replicates the flaps being open, resting on the bottom of the manifold, or will you need to fit one?
Mac.

 

[A2Steve]

I think the ECU is simply looking for range of motion. I don't know if it's going to work, but i'm going to give it a try

 

[A2Steve]

FSI lower intake manifold flap removal.

I expect you will succeed in removing the flaps I think you have done it before but something suddenly dawned on me the other week. The access for the little hex head bolts that fix the flaps is awkward and I am scared of mangling a bolt head to two but inspiration struck me of how to retrieve the situation if I or anyone did. My suggestion involves the 8 core plugs that run across the top of the manifold, most likely there I expect for use in the factory manifold assembly and introduction of these bolts. Each core plug roughly sits above a bolt, remove the one above your mangled head and a better access is achieved. Then either try unscrewing again or drill it out.

View attachment 91258

The catch is a source is needed for these core plugs.

Just an idea.

Andy

It's a good suggestion Andy but for fear of not being able to seal them properly afterwards, i'd just carefully use a power file to remove a rounded head if needed

 

[Stan H]

Today I picked up 12 white plastic inserts for the rear drum brake backplates and a replacement wire guide that fits into the axle beam to hold /guide the handbrake cable.
After many, many hours with wire brushes & wire drill tools, (Don't forget the dust mask), 2 coats of Vactan and then smooth Hammerite. Removal of the rear suspension bushes I'm getting to the point of rebuilding the rear axle and brakes.
New rear brake assembly & drums, new handbrake cables, Polyflex suspension bushes, new rear brake pipes one bought the other to be made.
A few images of the work for the past few weeks.

 

[CrispyEdd]

Preserving the future of your car is worth every minute, this will last a other 20 years! Bravo ?

 

[Stan H]

Preserving the future of your car is worth every minute, this will last a other 20 years! Bravo ?

When the back is back together, I move to the front, all brakes and suspension, new timing belt etc. Mk 1 TT seats are ready to go in.
Hopefully enjoy it until I get the OSS sorted.
Bit by bit. It will never be like many I see on here but it will be in a great roadworthy condition.
Great helpful, knowledgeable group on here too.

 

[CrispyEdd]

When the back is back together, I move to the front, all brakes and suspension, new timing belt etc. Mk 1 TT seats are ready to go in.
Hopefully enjoy it until I get the OSS sorted.
Bit by bit. It will never be like many I see on here but it will be in a great roadworthy condition.
Great helpful, knowledgeable group on here too.

You have made tt seat brackets??

 

[audi Atwo]

It's a good suggestion Andy but for fear of not being able to seal them properly afterwards, i'd just carefully use a power file to remove a rounded head if needed

So I know this is an old post but just come across it and had a go at it on an old broken one got to say they poped out pretty easy I think they are made for this perpose I used some make shift tools with a few light taps they cameout I then used a T10 hex and unscrewed easily once I did all 4 flaps I simply tapped them back in and checked they are not gonna come out using abit of pressure And make shift tool from inside the fall area to see if they will pop back out but they didn’t

 

[Andrew]

So I know this is an old post but just come across it and had a go at it on an old broken one got to say they poped out pretty easy I think they are made for this perpose I used some make shift tools with a few light taps they cameout I then used a T10 hex and unscrewed easily once I did all 4 flaps I simply tapped them back in and checked they are not gonna come out using abit of pressure And make shift tool from inside the fall area to see if they will pop back out but they didn’t

Interesting, exactly how did you remove the plugs, tap them through?

By chance did you notice if the central rod can now be pulled out with flaps removed? The reason i ask is I am still wondering how the pear shaped linkage piece that is attached to the actuator arm can be removed.

Thanks.

Andy

 

[Stan H]

You have made tt seat brackets??

Not as yet, I put my name down on the list to have a set of they get enough names to have a batch made, (TT seat link on here, printed off the drawings) but also bought the metal to make a set if not. I would have to get them welded up though.

 

[A2Steve]

So I know this is an old post but just come across it and had a go at it on an old broken one got to say they poped out pretty easy I think they are made for this perpose I used some make shift tools with a few light taps they cameout I then used a T10 hex and unscrewed easily once I did all 4 flaps I simply tapped them back in and checked they are not gonna come out using abit of pressure And make shift tool from inside the fall area to see if they will pop back out but they didn’t

Any indication of how you removed the caps would be great. Did it resolve your set-point errors?

 

[RZX]

Today my neighbour bought me this T-shirt, not sure what she is trying to tell me ???

 

[audi Atwo]

Any indication of how you removed the caps would be great. Did it resolve your set-point errors?

Tools I used are in photo number seven I placed the tool with the black end center of the cap and tapped with other tool on the top till it went through Not sure about position as I just tried it on an old broken one I had

 

[audi Atwo]

Interesting, exactly how did you remove the plugs, tap them through?

By chance did you notice if the central rod can now be pulled out with flaps removed? The reason i ask is I am still wondering how the pear shaped linkage piece that is attached to the actuator arm can be removed.

Thanks.

Andy

Yes I tapped through from the top down but the rod will not pull out I think it’s attached to the large bolt on the other end somehow not sure though if it is

 

[Joga]

Today my neighbour bought me this T-shirt, not sure what she is trying to tell me ???

I think you should interpret it as an encouragement to buy more cars. ?

 

[froggy]

…..Received my new suspension woo-hooo!!!!