Today I.....

I can understand your concerns. All it takes is a seized nipple to ruin your day.......

Be aware that the slave cylinder for the clutch is mainly plastic so there is a need to be very careful when loosening or tightening that bleed nipple.
 
I can understand your concerns. All it takes is a seized nipple to ruin your day.......

Be aware that the slave cylinder for the clutch is mainly plastic so there is a need to be very careful when loosening or tightening that bleed nipple.
Any tips you can share on this @audifan ?

I think I need to bleed the overlooked clutch circuit in the near future on mine…
 
The clutch slave is not difficult to bleed / flush. Audi decided to only fit one reservoir and as such it provides the fluid for BOTH the brakes and the clutch.

I bleed the brakes first, furthest from the reservoir back to the closest. Once the brakes are done I then do the clutch. Nothing special is needed to bleed the clutch. Never pressure bleed the clutch. Only the correct size spanner for the nipple, some clear tubing about a foot long and some type of container to catch the used fluid. Being plastic be very careful when slackening or tightening the nipple as it can shear off easily.
Fit the spanner onto the nipple so that it can slacken it, fit the clear pipe over the nipple and the other end into the container. Have some of the previously bled off fluid in the container to seal the end of the pipe. Undo the nipple about 1/4 to 1/2 turn and the fluid should just start to enter the clear tube. Make sure the reservoir is overfull of fresh fluid then gently press the clutch pedal to push fluid out. Ideally have someone watch the fluid and once looks fresh and clean shut the bleed nipple gently.

IF THE CLUTCH PEDAL FALLS TO THE FLOOR WHILE DOING THIS DO NOT PANIC. JUST SLIP YOUR TOES UNDER THE PEDAL AND GENTLY RETURN IT TO THE UP POSITION.

Check the level is now correct and fit the cap. Press the clutch pedal a couple of times to ensure it is now returning as it should. one last check for leaks and you are good to go.

As always dispose of the used DOT4 responsibly and not down a drain.
 
Here is a picture of the slave cylinder being bled. Tube A has been fitted to the bleed nipple...

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The slave is located on the top of the gearbox at the rear and just below the selector cables.
 
The clutch slave is not difficult to bleed / flush. Audi decided to only fit one reservoir and as such it provides the fluid for BOTH the brakes and the clutch.
I'm getting ready to do this tomorrow, hopefully gonna be sunny as I have only got the driveway to do this.
I've never done this, but after all the infos you've shared with everyone, I think I can do this, just gotta be careful especially with the plastic nipple on the clutch cylinder.
Btw do I have to turn the ignition on, so just before starting the engine, or should it be done without turning the key at all? Cheers
 
I'm getting ready to do this tomorrow, hopefully gonna be sunny as I have only got the driveway to do this.
I've never done this, but after all the infos you've shared with everyone, I think I can do this, just gotta be careful especially with the plastic nipple on the clutch cylinder.
Btw do I have to turn the ignition on, so just before starting the engine, or should it be done without turning the key at all? Cheers
There's no need to start the engine to bleed the clutch.
 
My car now has a (mostly) fitted JDD box.















Two of us, two jacks, some blood sacrificed to the gods of Audi… oh and the coolant pipe going into the bottoms of the radiator 















But still! Soon I’ll have long ratios, and more importantly, a 3rd gear.







Few upgrades being done today











Heads up display?




Sent from the future
 
Service time for ours today @ 176,000 miles. About 43,000 miles we’ve added since buying in September 2019 😊.
 

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I've never done this service myself, but with the many infos given here as well, big thanks to @audifan, I've built up the courage and got the brake fluid change done!
Well, kind of.

So I've used Halfrauds 1-man kit, can't really ask anyone to help with this, and filled the brake reservoir to top, put some fluid in the empty container, connected the hose, loosened rear off-side nipple, I was worried it might brake/shear off as looked a bit oldy, but thankfully it turned without any issue, yay.

Then I got into the car, pressed the clutch slowly 2x and run to see the liquid in the tube. There was none.
What's the issue? Damn. I pressed clutch, not brake. I was a tad nervous.
I'd tried the brake pedal, this time I heard the system work. When I ran to see the liquid in the tube, it was there alright, BUT a tiny bubble slowly crawled back itself into the system! That's no good.
Could it have been due me pressing the clutch, with only the brake nipple open?
So I pressed the brake 3x, and quickly closed the nipple. I hope it got rid of the bubble :/


So I put the bits back and drove the car back and forth on the driveway a bit, to check the brake strengths and for leaks. All good, no squashiness, but still a bit worried about that bubble.

After having a look at the brake fluid, to my surprise it wasn't dirty at all. It looks green but see-through. I've been owning my A2 for 3 years, previous owner didn't mention he got it done either, so I would say been there 5 years maybe. It didn't look clean from the engine bay, (see pic, new fluid on top/old fluid on bottom), but looks rather clean in the tube (see other pic, I had to crop it a lot, as it didn't let me upload it otherwise).

I was kinda hoping it's gonna be dirty, mostly because the clutch is vibrating so much like a proper massage, also feels heavy compared to other cars, until depressed completely, that I wanted to see if the old brake/clutch fluid is the reason for it. But it's clean, at least not dark brown.
Shall I bleed all the nipples anyway, including clutch, or if O/S nipple has clean fluid, all should have the same? Thanks.
 

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YES. If you open the nipples too much then air can get into the system. The fluid is overdue and you know what and how to do it. There are 3 way to bleed but all work. The method you are using is OK. Keep the reservoir over the full level and the bled pipe tight on the nipples. If you find the air is getting in slightly due to corrosion on the threads you can put some thick grease on them to prevent air being sucked in. Remember though if you see a tiny bubble on the top[ of the clear pipe, that air is not in the system as it is on the outside of the bleed nipple.

New fluid is clear / pale yellow in colour. Any tinge of green and there is contamination there. The darker the colour the worse the contamination.

Looking at your pictures that is quite dark green and needs changing.
 
YES. If you open the nipples too much then air can get into the system. The fluid is overdue and you know what and how to do it. There are 3 way to bleed but all work. The method you are using is OK. Keep the reservoir over the full level and the bled pipe tight on the nipples. If you find the air is getting in slightly due to corrosion on the threads you can put some thick grease on them to prevent air being sucked in. Remember though if you see a tiny bubble on the top[ of the clear pipe, that air is not in the system as it is on the outside of the bleed nipple.

New fluid is clear / pale yellow in colour. Any tinge of green and there is contamination there. The darker the colour the worse the contamination.

Looking at your pictures that is quite dark green and needs changing.
I'm actually looking forward to practice this, once I do this I won't be so worried about it . Hopefully all the other nipples will work good too, fingers cross. Thanks again.
 
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