Today I.....

Hi Paul, How would I check if the bits where the cables attatch to are broke, I ask this because this replacement roof does not open when the button is pressed, The roof is still out of the car so it might be worth looking at before re fit.
Cheers
 
Hi Paul, How would I check if the bits where the cables attatch to are broke, I ask this because this replacement roof does not open when the button is pressed, The roof is still out of the car so it might be worth looking at before re fit.
Cheers

You would need to use the Allen key to turn the motor. If there is any turning which does not result the the trucks on both side moving then the cable ends are broken
If you hear a clicking from the motor area then something is locked up as this is the cable clicking on the motor teeth which should not happen

Paul


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Thanks Paul, I have managed to use my battery drill to turn the motor and the replacement roof is opening nice and smooth with no cracking or creaking.but, the first stage lift before it starts going backwards seems to be lifting slightly higher on one side, not by much but still there.
 
Thanks Paul, I have managed to use my battery drill to turn the motor and the replacement roof is opening nice and smooth with no cracking or creaking.but, the first stage lift before it starts going backwards seems to be lifting slightly higher on one side, not by much but still there.
That can be adjusted on the T25 securing screws on each side of the glass panel.

Ian
 
Strongly suggest that you clean as much of the old grease out as possible as it will be like grinding paste with the dust and dirt that it accumulates
Then re lube it with lithium grease sparingly

I bought an aero sole of the stuff from tool station the ones with a pipe attached you can then spray it exactly were its needed as too much is not good as it just attracts the dirt

Paul


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I bought an aero sole of the stuff from tool station the ones with a pipe attached you can then spray it exactly were it needed as too much is not good as it just attracts the dirt

Paul

Don't you just love auto-correct, that could have turned out even better :)

Thanks Paul, I have managed to use my battery drill to turn the motor and the replacement roof is opening nice and smooth with no cracking or creaking.but, the first stage lift before it starts going backwards seems to be lifting slightly higher on one side, not by much but still there.

Johny - Check that the cables on both sides are synchronised, one might be pushing earlier than the other. Just remove the motor and ensure they are both 'pulled' back the same amount.
 
Don't you just love auto-correct, that could have turned out even better :)



Johny - Check that the cables on both sides are synchronised, one might be pushing earlier than the other. Just remove the motor and ensure they are both 'pulled' back the same amount.

Yes auto correct as a lot to answer for
That could have been so much worse that it actually was

Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Strongly suggest that you clean as much of the old grease out as possible as it will be like grinding paste with the dust and dirt that it accumulates
Then re lube it with lithium grease sparingly

I bought an aero sole of the stuff from tool station the ones with a pipe attached you can then spray it exactly were it needed as too much is not good as it just attracts the dirt

Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
In all honesty Paul, its not to bad but cleaned non the less.


But I will keep a lookout for an a*seh*le of Lithium Grease, thanks.
 
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Don't you just love auto-correct, that could have turned out even better :)



Johny - Check that the cables on both sides are synchronised, one might be pushing earlier than the other. Just remove the motor and ensure they are both 'pulled' back the same amount.

Its strange you should mention that catters, I will upload a photo later
 
IMG_20200605_214847.jpg

Aldi £2.99
 
Having a bit of a problem with my A2 this week it's a 2002 1.4 SE petrol and over a few weeks it became difficult to start. Then it took about 10-15 to start. Then once I got it started it dropped down before cutting out and required several revs of the throttle to keep it going. This was disagnosed as a coolant temperature sensor and once replaced it started on the button. The diagnostic test also threw up a fault for an EGR.

Then l took it out last week and it drove about 5 miles with no problem or lights on the cluster. Then when I came out of the supermarket to start it up it went lumpy and died as soon as I put it in gear and took my foot on the throttle, when it was running it sounded and smelt like it was running rich . The dashboard had several lights, the EPC,ABS plus the engine management light and on the digital display the Engine Fault detection light.

I have AA membership so their mechanic turned up and did a test, said the engine was running fine one minute, then lumpy the next. He said he thought there might be air getting in somewhere he sent me the diagnostic test and towed it to my local garage. This is the readout from the AA diagnostic attached

So the car was looked at and a new manifold ordered from Audi, this was fitted to the car and the mechanic took it out for a spin on two consecutive days and both times the car started perfectly and drove fine for a few miles before beginning it's lumpy routine and struggling to get past 5mph. The mechanic seems to think it might need an ECU but I'm stumped. The car appears to drive ok and then it's almost like when it gets up to temperature it just drops and won't accelerate past 1st gear/5mph

From reading I've come across everything from camshaft sensor to something connected to the EGR but to be honest I've no idea and the experienced mechanic doesn't seem to have found a solution either. It seems from reading that an ECU fault is unusual as surely if it wouldn't drive right from start up if it was the ECU.

Any help greatly appreciated
 

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