Today I.....

Tomscar said:
I've seen the tankers from supermarket and named brands queueing up at the docks in Belfast, all filled from what appeared to be the same source ... where are these additives added in, just assumed they delivered straight to the forecourts?
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It was never mentioned when loading but I used all the same equipment as everyone else. Never saw a button or screen that had additive on it to be selected.
The only additive I ever added was blue printer dye to catch out some employee stealing fuel, requested by the customer. It took a couple of weeks but they caught him in the end.
I have used supermarket diesel since getting my first diesel Audi 80 in the 90's without out any issues. Always use Liquid Moly diesel purge (others are available) at the service intervals in a loop with an in- line fuel filter in place (see Y/tube) for details. Surprising how the filter changes colour. All my vehicles have had 70+k on the clock when I acquired them.
 
Stan H said:
It was never mentioned when loading but I used all the same equipment as everyone else. Never saw a button or screen that had additive on it to be selected.
The only additive I ever added was blue printer dye to catch out some employee stealing fuel, requested by the customer. It took a couple of weeks but they caught him in the end.
I have used supermarket diesel since getting my first diesel Audi 80 in the 90's without out any issues. Always use Liquid Moly diesel purge (others are available) at the service intervals in a loop with an in- line fuel filter in place (see Y/tube) for details. Surprising how the filter changes colour. All my vehicles have had 70+k on the clock when I acquired them.
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Thanks Stan ... I've been using Tesco for seventeen years or so and it doesn't seem to have hurt the car ?
 
Howey said:
So does everyone get the same mpg with supermarket fuel?
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My 2001 Skoda Fabia estate 1.9 TDI 100 bhp AVE 56MPG ove 12 months and I did over 100K in that, daily run was 45 miles.
My 2002 Audi A4 Avant 130 BHP 1.9 TDI AVE 46 MPG , daily run is 26 miles to & from work. Fully loaded a run to the Lakes, around and back over 200 miles I got 56 mpg out of it with a tank fill to the lip at the dart and finish at the same Asda pump.

Link to YouTube diesel purge link.

 
(Thursday, Friday and yesterday)... I finally got around to fitting a new set of injectors to my FSI. The parts had been sitting in their boxes starring at me forlornly from the top of the chest of drawers in my bedroom since I bought them back in April, along with a set of new o-rings. I'd had a persistent misfire on cylinder 4 at idle, causing occasional EMLs and associated DTCs stored in the Pro Boost ECU supplied by @A2Steve. I'd been trying the various things recommended in the excellent misfire struggle thread but concluded this was the next move.

Really happy to say the misfire is gone, (I even get a set of 4 zeros on the misfire count in VCDS measured values) the throttle response is now really good, drives so much better, no flat spot, smooth idle. My daughter drives the car to school and back every day, but not during half-term this past week, and she can tell the difference too. So, after about 20 miles of test drives, there are no DTCs in the ECU. I might even swap back to the original ECU temporarily to see if drops into lean-burn without DTCs / EML just for a laugh and see if the fuel consumption etc. improves :)

How long did it take? Try not to laugh: about 14 hours, even taking a few short cuts. I had started after lunch on Thursday and worked until after midnight then a couple of hours on Friday night after work and then yesterday (Saturday) morning.

The Elsawin instructions for intake manifold removal are pretty poor. They tell you to do some things that aren't strictly necessary, for example they say to disconnect rubber fuel hose or coolant hose from parts that can be unbolted and moved to the side with the hose still connected. At the same time they neglect to tell you to do one essential thing which is disconnect the combined oil filler / dipstick tubes at the sump - if you don't do this then the tubes will probably break when you drop the engine the ~3" required to gain the space to get the upper manifold out.

There were some close-calls with almost cross threading fasteners, including the intake elbow support screws downstream of the throttle body, the two screws underneath the upper intake manifold where the support bracket attaches and most disturbingly, the high pressure fuel pipe union at the fuel pump. Really this short section of metal pipe is a fiddle. Next time I would only disconnect the union at the fuel rail end and withdraw the pipe together with the (still connected by its hose) complete fuel pump in the same direction towards the nearside. This then allows the metal pipe to be renewed if required and the steel union screwed into the fragile aluminium thread on the fuel pump in full view rather than risking cross-threading it like so nearly happened to me.

All the best folks!

Matt

Matt
 
Today I collected a very clean slam panel to replace my rotted through original. Thank you @Clackers
IMG_7111.JPG
 
Howey said:
That's mental! Hopefully an isolated case!
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To be honest all of the steel on my car has perforated. Front suspension arms, rear axle, slam panel, brake splash guards. Not quite true the front subframe scrubbed up. Many steel bolts also have seized into aluminium castings. I’m sure it is the way I have used it. Big miles on fast roads in all weather from day one.
 
@philward At least the slam panel is not too bad a job. As it is off how are all the radiators and intercooler if you have one? Now is also the time to clean and repair electrical plugs sockets and sensors. Even worth applying dielectric grease into the plugs to slow down corrosion. Although the steel original fitment fasteners were all coated from new this coating does not last long enough to prevent steel corrosion. Then you find non OEM fittings that suffer even quicker. I do not mind replacing fasteners just hate having to drill the remains out first.
 
Howey said:
So Stan are you saying supermarket fuel is exactly the same as shell
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The base fuel is the same. The additives, if added, are Oil Co specific, and injected via the bulk meter, (the meter that measures the volume of fuel loaded) in tiny amounts. At least it was when I worked for a company who made the meters and injection pumps.
Mac.
 
Personally I run three tanks supermarket diesel then one premium diesel and have done so for many years. The use of the premium is to help clean a dirty or neglected system that may not have been used for a while. After lockdown I used a couple of premium diesel.

Ironically the cars I had with DPF filters would regenerate more when on premium diesel.......
 
@audifan I found the perforation when replacing the radiator and condensor. They were badly rotted, the aluminium heat conductor surfaces could be cleared away with a brush.
Ill look up dielectric grease. Connectors and terminals on the A2 are good but I have other cars that would benefit from grease on the terminals. Thanks for the tip.
 
My main uses for dielectric grease is in the big block connectors for the door looms and on petrol coil packs for the connection to the spark plug. Don't go mad but at the same time you need full coverage.
 
philward said:
Today I collected a very clean slam panel to replace my rotted through original. Thank you @Clackers View attachment 87758
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Hi Phil, sorry I didn't have time to chat away, I was trying to beat the rain, which I managed justin the nick of time!!! Was great to put a face to the name, and glad you are pleased with your new slam panel.
As always, this group is full of amazing folk, very knowledgeable and pleasant to boot.
You'll be pleased to know that Nathan's car was back up and running by the time I left, another one saved ???
 
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