Today I.....

[lavandism]

Today I fight the hazards relay connector and spring that keeps it in place. Three hours in and it is still not out. I even took out the radio and lubed the hell out of it, but no progress still

A month later and one plastic carcass sent to recycling by the mighty opinel, the new relay is finally in.

 

[Deleted member 20348]

Installed plastic engine parts

1.Air intake manifold
2.Throttle body mount
3.Brake boost hose & crank case breather hose
4.Crank case breather

 

[CrispyEdd]

Finally had dry day to polish the petrol gloss black..

 

[Deleted member 20348]

Got up early to plan the cill removal

Then did the cill removal using a different method to the one described in this reply by @wilco184

Couldn't understand the workshop manual

Audi Workshop Service and Repair Manuals > A2 > Body | General body repairs, exterior | Exterior equipment | Side member trim | Removing and installing side member trim

A2 > Audi Workshop Service and Repair Manuals > Body | General body repairs, exterior | Exterior equipment | Side member trim | Removing and installing side member trim

workshop-manuals.com

 

[Sootywg]

Today I failed to mount a new suspension arm! Thought I had a foolproof approach using a sash clamp to gently push the hex pinion into the rear bush. No way even with washing up liquid liberally applied. Thought stuff this and tried some silicon grease (I know I know, not supposed to have grease in there) I wanted to see if this was sufficient to press it all the way in. After about 20 mm I thought the clamp might break, so I removed the clamp, the darn arm slid itself out of the bush!
The sash clamp is a bit unwieldy to work with and kept slipping, so given up for this evening and will have a think on tomorrow! I can’t see an ‘F’ clamp giving as much force as a sash.

 

[johnyfartbox]

Ratchet strap fastend to the rear beam?

 

[Sootywg]

Ratchet strap fastend to the rear beam?

More force than a sash clamp?

 

[johnyfartbox]

You can also grind the powder coating off the finger that goes through the bush

 

[Stan H]

Once lined up a nice piece of hardwood & a calibrated Lump hammer. Take care

 

[Sootywg]

Once lined up a nice piece of hardwood & a calibrated Lump hammer. Take care

I fear tearing the rubber out of the rear bush with the resistance being so high

 

[johnyfartbox]

You can drop the console and fit the wishbone in the garage into the bush then refit

 

[Stan H]

I once changed my rear bushes on a Skoda Fabia as they were shot at. I went for a set of Seat cupra which were a solid rubber bush. I had a nightmare getting the wishbones back in using Truck ratchet straps. One side I slightly oiled which stuck with 10mm left to go in the other I greased up as much as possible. I still needed the straps and the wooden block and copper hammer. The grease side popped into place but the other side was a nightmare. You can remove the console but that can add other issues as well. Best of luck. Hope it goes in on the 2nd attempt.

 

[Raymie]

You can also grind the powder coating off the finger that goes through the bush

I recall the same problem. I resorted to using a file to lightly dress the hex surface to remove the paint then installing with a ratchet strap

 

[Sootywg]

I recall the same problem. I resorted to using a file to lightly dress the hex surface to remove the paint then installing with a ratchet strap

What strength ratchet strap do you think is needed? Quite a price hike when you go up to a 5Ton breaking strain

 

[audifan]

The manual states the wishbones and consoles are removed and refitted as one part. Once off a puller or press is used to remove the old wishbone and a press to fit the new one....

 

[Sootywg]

The manual states the wishbones and consoles are removed and refitted as one part. Once off a puller or press is used to remove the old wishbone and a press to fit the new one....

Many people have done as you say and I am sure it is the correct way. My fears is finding more difficult corroded bolts (anti-roll bar, plate nuts etc) and having a bigger job on my hands. Plus purchasing more tools that will never get used again such as the subframe alignment pins.
I can clearly see why removal of the console is the correct way because you get correct alignment of the hex spigot which should make pushing in a lot easier.
No wonder later vehicles use a different arrangement!

 

[johnyfartbox]

You won't need alignment pins if you take off one at a time.

 

[Deleted member 20348]

Dear @johnyfartbox could you explain why that just removing one at a time wouldn't require alignment pins please?

Is there a certain technique that you have found works best?

 

[johnyfartbox]

Ok, I asked 5 guys that work on cars for a living, they basically all said the same thing, regarding the nature of the design of the A2 and others with the same set up, when you drop one of the consoles the plate it is fastened too cannot move because the other console is holding it in place, the main thing too do is draw around the console with a permanent marker so when replacing you have a position too follow.

 

[Sootywg]

Ok, I asked 5 guys that work on cars for a living, they basically all said the same thing, regarding the nature of the design of the A2 and others with the same set up, when you drop one of the consoles the plate it is fastened too cannot move because the other console is holding it in place, the main thing too do is draw around the console with a permanent marker so when replacing you have a position too follow.

The fact that everyone says that as minimum you need to mark around the console location implies that there is room for movement and misalignment when re-installling. How many of the bolt locations have this degree of movement?