Tow bar altercation - can it be fixed ?

So I had a look at the B pillar and comparing to the passenger side it does look like the hinge has bent it a little at the mounting point. You can see in the photo that the hinge has shifted too, which seems like a pretty bad sign to me.
 

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Hoachy said:
So I had a look at the B pillar and comparing to the passenger side it does look like the hinge has bent it a little at the mounting point. You can see in the photo that the hinge has shifted too, which seems like a pretty bad sign to me.
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Just taken an image of mine to compare and it looks like yours may have pulled the B pillar outwards.
 

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Hoachy said:
So I had a look at the B pillar and comparing to the passenger side it does look like the hinge has bent it a little at the mounting point. You can see in the photo that the hinge has shifted too, which seems like a pretty bad sign to me.
Click to expand...
Looks to me like the door has slipped on the hinge & the hinge moved on the car slightly looking at the original footmarks of the mounting points.
 
kp 115 said:
Looks to me like the door has slipped on the hinge & the hinge moved on the car slightly looking at the original footmarks of the mounting point
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The hinge has definitely moved on the mounting point and I'm pretty sure there is a little bulge just under the hinge that isn't the same on the other (non-bent) pillar.

Does that fact that the hinge has moved mean that there is probably damage on the pillar behind the hinge? Or is there some movement for adjustment on the mounting point?
 
Hoachy said:
The hinge has definitely moved on the mounting point and I'm pretty sure there is a little bulge just under the hinge that isn't the same on the other (non-bent) pillar.

Does that fact that the hinge has moved mean that there is probably damage on the pillar behind the hinge? Or is there some movement for adjustment on the mounting point?
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It will depend on the clearance round the fixings for alignment of doors etc
 
You might be able to knock it back into the original position with a block of hard wood and 4lb hammer. It sound roughy but if your good at it you can generally get the hinge back into the correct position

You would fit the front door first and align it correctly then go for the rear door fitment and ‘adjust’ the hinge as required

Paul
 
Are the bolts holding the hinge to the B pillar accessible from inside the car after removing the trim? Could they be slacked and then reposition to see if it is now straight?
 
Alan_uk said:
Are the bolts holding the hinge to the B pillar accessible from inside the car after removing the trim? Could they be slacked and then reposition to see if it is now straight?
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No idea, but that would be handy.

@A2Steve I would hazard guess that you have removed more doors from these cars than most, do you have any idea?
 
depronman said:
You might be able to knock it back into the original position with a block of hard wood and 4lb hammer. It sound roughy but if your good at it you can generally get the hinge back into the correct position

You would fit the front door first and align it correctly then go for the rear door fitment and ‘adjust’ the hinge as required

Paul
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That does sound like the kind of sophisticated fine tuning that my mechanic is pretty handy with.

I haven't been able to get in touch with him today, but I'm sure he'll have the tools required.
 
A2Steve said:
It is, but breaking isn't as refined as you perhaps imagine so a shell swap wouldn't be a good idea. Unless of course you are suggesting cutting out the b-pillar which i'm happy to do.
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I think I would rather just get a new A2 than start replacing chunks of the frame and a shell swap seems like a ludicrous amount of work.

My wee car is no garage queen, it is a working family car. Not worth bending over backwards to save, but if I could fix it economically that would be great.
 
Hoachy said:
I think I would rather just get a new A2 than start replacing chunks of the frame and a shell swap seems like a ludicrous amount of work.

My wee car is no garage queen, it is a working family car. Not worth bending over backwards to save, but if I could fix it economically that would be great.
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Although it sounds extreme, I'd think a cut'n shut of the B pillar is practical, if you can find a really good ally welder.
Do a few comparative measurements on both insides, to establish if the inner shell is distorted, which would make cut'n shut unwise. If it's just the outside of the shell, around the hinge mount that's damaged, then giving it a go would not cost much, and so not much to loose by trying.
Just my armchair five penn'orth.
Mac.
 
PlasticMac said:
Although it sounds extreme, I'd think a cut'n shut of the B pillar is practical, if you can find a really good ally welder.
Do a few comparative measurements on both insides, to establish if the inner shell is distorted, which would make cut'n shut unwise. If it's just the outside of the shell, around the hinge mount that's damaged, then giving it a go would not cost much, and so not much to loose by trying.
Just my armchair five penn'orth.
Mac.
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I beg to differ on the cut and shut of the B pillar
The integrity of the shell and therefore the safety cell will be dependent on the B pillar. This is the reason that cut and shuts where outlawed
If the B pillar is not able to be straightened then I’m afraid it’s a scrap A2 in all practical terms
The option for a shell swap is there but a massive investment in time and effort that I doubt is actually worth it

Paul


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depronman said:
I beg to differ on the cut and shut of the B pillar
The integrity of the shell and therefore the safety cell will be dependent on the B pillar. This is the reason that cut and shuts where outlawed
If the B pillar is not able to be straightened then I’m afraid it’s a scrap A2 in all practical terms
The option for a shell swap is there but a massive investment in time and effort that I doubt is actually worth it

Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I should have referred to it as a patch, rather than the colloquial term I used.
Cut out the distorted area around the hinge mount, not the whole of the B pillar, then weld in the replacement "patch"
Cutting right through the B pillar, would, I agree, cause the entire space frame to distort, cutting a section from the outer skin wouldn't, imo.
Mac.
 
Honestly, the time and cost in repairning any damage to the B-pillar would probably kill that idea dead in the water. As much as I would love to see the car back on the road I feel it would be a step to far.
 
Hoachy said:
Honestly, the time and cost in repairning any damage to the B-pillar would probably kill that idea dead in the water. As much as I would love to see the car back on the road I feel it would be a step to far.
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Realistically, I'd agree. Salvage what you can, but accept the inevitable.
It's easy for me to theorise, but in a similar situation, I don't suppose I'd consider any thing other than ro scrap it with that degree of damage. Good luck, I'm sure we look forward to hearing about your new to you A2.
Mac.
 
We went through a similar discussion about a year ago and the op found a race oriented company that welded in a new section. It’s really not rocket science if you get the right guys. I know there’s complications with wiring but it’s doable
 
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