Wont start. Fuel pump/relay

That hose looks ok used a mirror , wiggled all seems ok , only the lower one seems to have any visible issue , where it crosses the conduit, but not.sure even with look with a mirror.if it's holes... Can feel abrasion where it's clearly sat in the conduit but no viable leaks again...View attachment 119808
Behind the camshaft and crankshaft connections ? There is oil on the block. Is this where leak below tandem shows or.is it on the right directly below which seems dry?
1708856362611954647996175020568.jpg
can just see there's a layer of oil and grime where I have wiped through to the silver of the pipe going to the oil filter housing
 
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Not too concerned about lower hose. If top one ok then that check is complete. By the way the connection on the back of the tandem pump is for vacuum and nothing to do with fuel.
 
Thanks all , looks like next step is the fuel filter ... hopefully it will arrive today .


Hi, I've been following your post and hope this is of some use?

View attachment 119811

Pump removed TDI 1.4 75hp :) 👍

View attachment 119812
Learning a lot about the parts and how the TDI works which I've taken for.granted , thanks everyone for all your support... Want to do, try everything I can to keep it going ...it's too good to give up on ...
o.everything
 
If you don't get much/any fuel out of the filter housing when you change the filter then your problem is solved.
I think earlier you said you had about 2 inches of fuel in the tank? When mine have 2 inches of fuel in the tank the fuel light comes on.
 
If you don't get much/any fuel out of the filter housing when you change the filter then your problem is solved.
I think earlier you said you had about 2 inches of fuel in the tank? When mine have 2 inches of fuel in the tank the fuel light comes on.
Yes about two.inches , not a very scientific test ... I just put a clean plastic drinking straw into the bottom and used it like a dip stick ? The fuel light wasn't on though at any stage of this . and still didn't show when I moved the car to level . The measure was taken when the car was level ..I have since having had the issue added 5 litres . It's showing just below.half full on the guage . So unless it's misreading I am.hoping it didn't run out of fuel ... Just have to wait for the new filter now
 
Yes about two.inches , not a very scientific test ... I just put a clean plastic drinking straw into the bottom and used it like a dip stick ? The fuel light wasn't on though at any stage of this . and still didn't show when I moved the car to level . The measure was taken when the car was level ..I have since having had the issue added 5 litres . It's showing just below.half full on the guage . So unless it's misreading I am.hoping it didn't run out of fuel ... Just have to wait for the new filter now
Yes about two.inches , not a very scientific test ... I just put a clean plastic drinking straw into the bottom and used it like a dip stick ? The fuel light wasn't on though at any stage of this . and still didn't show when I moved the car to level . The measure was taken when the car was level ..I have since having had the issue added 5 litres . It's showing just below.half full on the guage . So unless it's misreading I am.hoping it didn't run out of fuel ... Just have to wait for the new filter now
I presume the angle.of the tank and level of fuel if two inches could then have both contributed to having too low a fuel level ...
 
I remember being surprised when I dipped my tank in a similar fashion. I deliberately did this when the fuel light came on for reasons I shall not bore you with. There was 40-50mm in the tank.
I'm just thinking that despite the cleaning, your fuel level sender might be reading high. Ie there is less in the tank than the gauge says.
If so it's possibly as simple as it ran out of fuel. Though it would have to have been sat on a steep slope and left ticking over for a while.
I guess changing the filter will answer the question.
 
Just to remind you. If it ran out of fuel then levelling the car and adding fuel will not get it started.
 
Just to remind you. If it ran out of fuel then levelling the car and adding fuel will not get it started.
Thanks, yes understood ... I'm hoping it had run out of fuel rather than some other unknown even though the guage is reading saying it still has fuel...all I know is it read 1/2 way between 1/4. And 1/2 when I was on my way back , now after adding 5 litres it's just below 1/2 .. prior to bringing it home.which is 1 mile from home., it was in the process of being mot'd . It was left running for sometime.and all.seemed ok.was.good on the drive back from the MOT station, no warnings , just parked facing upwards, not a usial.parking spot , in this spot the nearside rear is lower due to.slope and turn of drive than the offside.rear.. It is quite an incline on the corner .and left it there not thinking anything would be an.issue The following morning had the non start. .roll on the fuel filter change ... 👍. Thanks all.again for helping me through this
 
Still awaiting the new filter . After changing the filter will I then have to manually prime to get starting ... Or should it start after a few rounds of cranking? If so do I need to source some.clear plastic pipe ?
 
Just a thought - after all the dismantling and remantling, do you need to recalibrate your fuel gauge?
Good Question. It does seem to be reading exactly the same as before dismantling so maybe not? What I am unsure of though is whether it was reading correctly and not overstating its contents . Maybe there is a recalibration process in VCDS that needs to be followed ?
 
Just a thought - after all the dismantling and remantling, do you need to recalibrate your fuel gauge?
Afternoon Robin,

No need to recalibrate the fuel gauge pointer if you’ve not touched the instrument cluster. One requires doing if you have removed the pointer. Easy to do with an output test within Ch 17 (instruments) but not necessary in this situation.
Good Question. It does seem to be reading exactly the same as before dismantling so maybe not? What I am unsure of though is whether it was reading correctly and not overstating its contents . Maybe there is a recalibration process in VCDS that needs to be followed ?

Afternoon Neil,

The only caveat to my reply to Robin above is that if you feel the needle is indeed reading incorrectly then there is nothing wrong with checking the pointer position with VCDS. Just plug VCDS in and select Ch 17 - Instruments. Then select Output Test. Early in the output test the pointers will move to their calibration position similar to below:

IMG_8781.jpeg


The pointer should sit at:

3000 rpm
60 mph
90°
1/2 full

Of note, this can be done with the cluster still in the vehicle, absolutely no need to take it apart unless any of the pointers are not correctly aligned.

I’m quite confident that the output test will show everything as it was from factory as it’s the original instrument cluster which to my knowledge has never been taken apart. I know I didn’t and cannot see the previous owner doing this either.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Still awaiting the new filter . After changing the filter will I then have to manually prime to get starting ... Or should it start after a few rounds of cranking? If so do I need to source some.clear plastic pipe ?
I once had an audi A6 of similar vintage where the tank was actually empty when the gauge read just under a quarter full....so it can happen.

Yes you will still have to bleed the injectors using a vacuum pump as describe earlier (assuming you have air in the injectors). Suitable clear plastic tube might come with the vacuum pump depending on which one you bought.
 
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