my personal Audio upgrade...

I've got frustrated with the standard system. That was a loong time ago.

In the mean time, I have a carPC here, and I've been working on getting the audio side so far up and running that I can plug in my Laptop or the car PC.

I'll be running home drivers in the car. Seas ER18RNX in the doors, 27TFFNC/Gs on the dash for the moment (unless I don't like how it sounds, which is why they're only temp housings ) - amplification is a DLS CA41 and the sub is a CSS SDX10, powered by a Signat ROM2 until I can get something better. On with the pics:













Bret

so, some update pics..... short, because I need to get my arse into bed..

Oak for the floor of the boot: one coat of oil so far, diluted with white spirit. Just 400 grit sanded. Will be waxed after the second coat.

kit:
USB Soundcard


UCS Pro in it's new home


one of the amps:


the baseboard for the time being


random damping shot:


the door build from the inside (yes, that is foam, and yes, that is the door inner skin off to make sure that it seals correctly)



my wife needed the car, so I put it back together for the time being. This is the door without the pocket, the leather on the lower section, no LEDs working and the ER18RNX for proof purposes.




that's it for the moment, I've found some interesting stiff closed cell foam at the depot called "depron" - it's mouldable with some heat and so I'll be using that for at least some insulation, mainly because it's dirt cheap...

Bret

Looking good! Where are you going to stick your tweeters? I was going to try and put my trusty ol' Seas tweeters to the front corners of the triangle windows (where the distance would be about the same with the door speakers), but I found some nice sounding 2" Peerless wide band speakers (cheap too, 16 eur a peace!!) from Hifitalo, so I'll leave the tweeters out and put those on top of the dash instead. Should lift the sound image nicely, since they go all the way down to 200 Hz so the door speakers'll only have to deal with the bass.

kiitos! I don't like what the 2" do for female voices (excellent example: Emma Salokoski / DJBB / Nightman from "Breaking Daylight"), otherwise I'd do that, too. I have two pairs of those at home, one pair runs in the kitchen in 0.6l ported (about the same height as a full-size karhu-tölkki) and they're fine down to 100Hz or so. They don't have air at the top end - you might want to add the tweeters anyway. I ended up last night pushing the EQ on my laptop up starting from 6.3kHz, with 15k +6dB, which helped. Still not as good as the 27tffns. They also really, really, benefit from running in. If you want to borrow a pair to test, I'm sure we can arrange something.

I'd prefer to run the 3" peerless TG9s (they're also €32 from hifitalo) as they really do sound excellent and only need tweeters >10kHz. I spent some time modelling last night as it was pissing down and I think I'll try 2.5l on the dash. They'll then get crossed at 140Hz or so.

Alternatives? well, the 27tffns (which I got from bmm-electronics, as Hifitalo want silly money) were best at home 10-15degrees off axis. So that means I've aimed them for the moment underneath the rear-view mirror. The distances are minimally different from the corners of the windscreen (around 200mm), so it should be possible to get pretty good imaging without any time alignment. But I have it, so.... I really, really like what I've heard from home with the drivers I have now in the car. The TFFNs are sweet and airy, what I was looking for. I think I might try adding them to the TG9s and see what happens; I have the space to do that at home for the next few days

Bret

,...it's been a while...

since the escapades with my car not starting, holidays and other important stuff, I've rather neglected this over the last few weeks. However, that will change again, starting now.

I soldered (with a 200W iron!) the 2AWG and 4AWG cables for the amps the other night; I now also have a Terratec DMX 6Fire here on my desk, which means I also have 6 channels of output. With some more software, I now also have convolution, delay, EQ and essentially no need whatsoever for the UCS, but probably a use for new hardware

So, bottom line at the moment is that with a bit of luck and another PC, I should have complete DRC in the car; my idea of setups for summer, winter and different speeds should be doable (yeah!)

I should be cabling LEDs back up this weekend, but the weather looks crappy; I will probably try and clear the garage again anyway to make it possible.

More pics will follow later.

Bret

Looking forward to it Bret

so am I, so am I

developments:
- Splen 3008 is now in all doors and parts of the B-pillars. Still have 8 untouched sheets, too. So I'll drop the headlining, maybe tonight, and put some up there; I'll put some behind the glovebox and the rest is going over the rear wheelarches inside.

- the driver that's mounted in the driver's door weighs a ton.
- the cables for the mirror puddle lights are now re-done in the driver's door; the others need to be done ASAP and I'll try and get that done tonight as a priority, because then I can put the inner skins back on.
- the inner skins at the front now all have enough Noxudol on; they really aren't resonant at all. Happy with that.
- both front windows had dropped a tad (3mm or so), so there is some water in both doors

- playing for the better part of six hours has led me to a software solution which might actually work for my old Soundcard. If I install Virtual Audio Cable, ASIO4ALL and Allocator, I appear to be able to route the sound from foobar2000 via VAC to ASIO and then to Allocator, which also then provides EQ capability. TA isn't included, but I shouldn't have any issues anyway as the path lengths to the tweeters are within 6" of one another.
- So, I'll probably return the 6Fire and buy some software again. The 6Fire wanted 12V AC, too.

Looking good so far, I might even get some pics tonight.

Still on the lookout for some heavy vinyl (studiospares have some) for the floorpan, the rear arches and the wheelarches on the outside of the car. I'll see about that soon.

So, present rate of progress, the system should be running this weekend. Ha, I'll believe that when I see it, as I've got something like 8 LEDS internally to wire up, another 6 on the outside and bunch of switches I need to hide somewhere.

Bret

quick updates:

Now, 3 of 4 inner door skins back on with the cables pulled. Just back up for a quick drink and some food; will go back in 10 or so, add the last skin, the rear seats and go for a spin to see if the changes have made any obvious difference...

oh yeah, i'll probably kill the front door puddle lights from under the door, as under the mirrors is bright enough. The rear doors will keep them in at the bottom. I'll re-wire the boot LEDs as well tomorrow or Monday.

Then, some pics, methinks...

Bret

Get this:

the loudest noise @ 75mph is the wind.

'nuff said. I'm impressed.

I'll dump some more in the wheelwells, behind the bottom of the a-pillar feet (where the connection points are), under the headlining and then I need to start on the boot.

Bret

Soooo...

the amps are in place, the speaker cable is in place, but no power yet. I'll do that tomorrow.

Problems are manifold, the biggest one is the speaker mount. I need to change that fundamentally, as it's not good enough.

Next steps include more damping for the outside of the wheelarches (and the inside); plans for the new boot and other stuff.

The LEDs in the door work correctly again now.

Bret

Obsessed, driven, enthusiastic, talented, a little mad, maybe all of these! But a fun thread - keep it up Bret this is great stuff.

very, very short:


it works

Excellent. Deep bass, crystal highs. Minor issues around 2.5kHz (which I was expecting), no need for Timealignment, processing or anything else. Just a bit of EQ and life will be fine.

Bret

Excellant work matey!

next steps....

so, the new sub box is now underway. After 2 days of music, it's all back out again

2 Layers of glass have given me this:




I'll be bracing the baffle with aluminium and some more glass; the sides will end up being raised another 3" or so, as I want to fit the amps underneath a single consistent false floor. We'll see.

Bret

Got to hand it to you, this is one heck of an install!

However, even though I am an audio purist (yes, I take my work home with me in that respect, in fact, I have a better set up at home than I do at work!!), I can't help but feel that any automotive install is a bit of a waste, as you will always be compromised due to wind/tyre/road/spouse noise, no matter how much damping you install!

Once again though, great work!

Cheers,

Mike

thanks

as far as insulation is concerned...well, there's a discussion ongoing at the moment about how much 4mm 7.5kg/m2 or 2.5mm 4kg/m2 EPDM to use; in the wheel arches and the boot is certain. This stuff is pretty heavy for the thickness and ought to help....using TL = 20 log (m*f) - 48 - where TL = transmission Loss, M = mass in kg /m3, f= Frequency, I get

mass----Hz------dB reduction
7.5-----50------3.48
7.5-----75------7.00
7.5-----80------7.56
7.5-----100-----9.50
7.5-----125-----11.44
7.5-----150-----13.02


@ 50-150Hz (with one layer!); adding another of the thin stuff (which I was going to do, under the carpets), I increase that to

mass----Hz------dB
11.5----50------7.19
11.5----75------10.72
11.5----80------11.28
11.5----100-----13.21
11.5----125-----15.15
11.5----150-----16.74

which is, to put it mildly, not too shabby. It needs to cover completely, though, for that, and it simply can't do that, so there won't be as much decrease, unfortunately.

I'm also happier now about my ability to create decent stuff from FG; this time round, I've been pushing the mat down with plastic after it's been soaked and put into place, so there should be no air bubbles. The boot will be the biggest issue, but I think with some damping, foam and EPDM, sandwiched with FG for the outside (probably with Leather / Wood / Alcantara covering) it should be pretty quiet.

I was kinda surprised, but the stage and imaging is pretty good with the tweeters in the corners of the dash. The stage isn't really wide enough, but I suspect some EQ can fix that - and the mids really do need sealing properly. I'll deal with that when I get back from the weekend away. Maybe even some decent A2-shots, I need to persuade my wife to take my car, not hers

Bret

(oh yeah, he who works out how the box shot was taken wins a pint) - Details later.

i'll add a new thread.. but i have damping material. And lots of other stuff and ideas

more later.

Bret

pics!

more amps... another 90.2 is in the UK waiting and a 900.1D (which delivers 475W into 4ohms!) is at customs here.....



the 300.1 will go into my wife's car, as will probably the 100.2, and maybe a 300.4 if I can find one in good enough condition. The sub there will be a JL 12W0, the 300 will deliver around 150W for that, which is enough for that car. Now all I need is some decent components and some time to mould a box...

The amps will sit on a 6mm Ply floor, raised using some more ply. I'll channel some power cables under there, probably. They will be seperated by 100x20x2 aluminium box section, which will be screwed to the floor - and the cables will run through those where possible. The false floor will therefore be a little lower than the original one; it was intended to be oak, but I might actually make it of veneered ply if I can find it, because I could strengthen the back of that with alu profile and basalt.

Which reminds me:

basalt:


with some resin on it and crushed together (which is why I won't do this unless I have to, as it's way too uneven):



I'll probably do a quick part for the roof, too, when I've worked out exactly what I want, with

over glass: the gaps will be translucent and it should be pretty strong. Let's see.

Bret

so, quick update:

- the 900.1d and the 180.2 definitely work. Tested tonight. They're damn loud, too

I've cleared up and in the mean time am really, really waiting on the 90.2 because without that, I can't run active.
I'm also reasonably convinced in the mean time on the merits of going threeway, so I'll be creating some faceplates over the next couple of days that I can add to some expandy foam or the like for the a-pillar corners. the 100.2 will fire those. But that gives me a space problem in the boot. I'll deal with that next, I think.

Then, I need to sort the builds for the doors out. As they are, they simply don't work well enough. They also seriously get in the way when getting in and out of the car. Will need to think that one through first.

Doorpockets I'll try soon, too, but I've got two months before the fire brigade are round again and they'll complain about the stuff downstairs - so this means some work needs to get done.

Bret