Another one bites the dust, (pressed wishbone failure)

Hi Stan, there are lots of subframes on eBay, I went for an Audi A1 subframe, just to keep it Audi. But if you go by the part numbers then any from a Fabia, Ibiza or Polo will fit, petrol or diesel.
Mine was nearly new at £39, quite a bargain I thought. Part numbers is 6R0199315.

If you look in the article - https://wiki.a2-freun.de/wiki/index.php/Hauptseite explains all about it, but here is a screenshot of the wishbone parts needed.

Al
 
Hi Stan, there are lots of subframes on eBay, I went for an Audi A1 subframe, just to keep it Audi. But if you go by the part numbers then any from a Fabia, Ibiza or Polo will fit, petrol or diesel.
Mine was nearly new at £39, quite a bargain I thought. Part numbers is 6R0199315.

If you look in the article - https://wiki.a2-freun.de/wiki/index.php/Hauptseite explains all about it, but here is a screenshot of the wishbone parts needed.

Al
Hi Al.
Thanks for this, just taken a quick look through it. It certainly looks to be a good alternative to keeping 20+ year old A2's on the road also changing our a wishbone looks a doddle in comparison to the hex version with the plus of the 3 bolt ball joint end swap.
Probably quieter & smoother on the road than my cast wishbones with the poly bushes at the rear.
Stan.
 
Hi Al.
Thanks for this, just taken a quick look through it. It certainly looks to be a good alternative to keeping 20+ year old A2's on the road also changing our a wishbone looks a doddle in comparison to the hex version with the plus of the 3 bolt ball joint end swap.
Probably quieter & smoother on the road than my cast wishbones with the poly bushes at the rear.
Stan.
Sorry forgot to add the screenshot.

Screenshot_20240219-195729-662.png
 
Hi Al.
Thanks for this, just taken a quick look through it. It certainly looks to be a good alternative to keeping 20+ year old A2's on the road also changing our a wishbone looks a doddle in comparison to the hex version with the plus of the 3 bolt ball joint end swap.
Probably quieter & smoother on the road than my cast wishbones with the poly bushes at the rear.
Stan.

This Link is to the actual thread, lots of pics.
Mac.
 
What was the issue with your alignment after the swap & how did you solve it?
Basically I had too much Caster. It just needed moving to reduce it.
I couldn't use the locating pins in the new subframe (the bolt holes are smaller), and even so its a slight different design, so would be different anyway. The subframe allows for movement.
My biggest issue was because of the excess Caster my steering was very heavy. When in the air, on axle stands it was fine. When lowered it was very notchy.
I took it to my local indy VAG garage and they deduced that I had damaged my steering rack, don't know how, 4 bolts out, then 4 bolts back in.
I later found out that they don't posses any alignment jig and he was "doing it by eye"!
I obtained a replacement steering rack, but that turned out to be leaky, so bought a recon one.
The recon rack is on an exchange basis, and I hope when they get my original back they can let me know what is wrong with it, if anything.
If it turns out to be fine, I'm going to be grumpy.
Rest assured, I won't be using that garage again. Luckily I've found there is another indy VAG expert in my town, and this guy actually knows his stuff.
Just make sure you get your alignment done by someone that isn't relying on his eyesight. We're talking mm of adjustment here.
 
Basically I had too much Caster. It just needed moving to reduce it.
I couldn't use the locating pins in the new subframe (the bolt holes are smaller), and even so its a slight different design, so would be different anyway. The subframe allows for movement.
My biggest issue was because of the excess Caster my steering was very heavy. When in the air, on axle stands it was fine. When lowered it was very notchy.
I took it to my local indy VAG garage and they deduced that I had damaged my steering rack, don't know how, 4 bolts out, then 4 bolts back in.
I later found out that they don't posses any alignment jig and he was "doing it by eye"!
I obtained a replacement steering rack, but that turned out to be leaky, so bought a recon one.
The recon rack is on an exchange basis, and I hope when they get my original back they can let me know what is wrong with it, if anything.
If it turns out to be fine, I'm going to be grumpy.
Rest assured, I won't be using that garage again. Luckily I've found there is another indy VAG expert in my town, and this guy actually knows his stuff.
Just make sure you get your alignment done by someone that isn't relying on his eyesight. We're talking mm of adjustment here.
It will be a while before I attempt anything maybe next year. I'm wondering if I can make something or measure certain points as a reference before & after.
 
Basically I had too much Caster. It just needed moving to reduce it.
I couldn't use the locating pins in the new subframe (the bolt holes are smaller), and even so its a slight different design, so would be different anyway. The subframe allows for movement.
My biggest issue was because of the excess Caster my steering was very heavy. When in the air, on axle stands it was fine. When lowered it was very notchy.
I took it to my local indy VAG garage and they deduced that I had damaged my steering rack, don't know how, 4 bolts out, then 4 bolts back in.
I later found out that they don't posses any alignment jig and he was "doing it by eye"!
I obtained a replacement steering rack, but that turned out to be leaky, so bought a recon one.
The recon rack is on an exchange basis, and I hope when they get my original back they can let me know what is wrong with it, if anything.
If it turns out to be fine, I'm going to be grumpy.
Rest assured, I won't be using that garage again. Luckily I've found there is another indy VAG expert in my town, and this guy actually knows his stuff.
Just make sure you get your alignment done by someone that isn't relying on his eyesight. We're talking mm of adjustment here.
I wonder what this could be. 🤔 Arrived today.
 

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