Heated mirrors question

Dreaded failure has hit me too. After working perfectly, the drivers side stopped working. I have taken off the glass, cleaned the contacts, crimped the wire with no joy. Switched the passenger one for the drivers and proved the glass is working. Put them both back on and now neither work. :rolleyes:

Need a bit more time to do some exploratory work; though I won't be investing too much time as it isn't the end of the world to have non-heated glass.
 
Darren C said:
Dreaded failure has hit me too. After working perfectly, the drivers side stopped working. I have taken off the glass, cleaned the contacts, crimped the wire with no joy. Switched the passenger one for the drivers and proved the glass is working. Put them both back on and now neither work. :rolleyes:

Need a bit more time to do some exploratory work; though I won't be investing too much time as it isn't the end of the world to have non-heated glass.
Click to expand...

Hi Darren,

It is possible that the car has sensed a failure and cut the power, it is a long shot but have you tried unplugging the battery for a few minutes and then reconnecting?

It won't harm to try but if you say that all of the connections are ok and the glass is ok but not working then this might reset it all?

Steve B
 
Thanks Steve, I will give it a try happily.

The only constant is that the drivers side has remained inactive since it stopped working. The glass itself came to life when swapped to the passenger side, but doesn't work when back in its proper location. Bizarre that the passenger one has stopped since replacing; unless I dislodged a connection, but don't believe this to be the case.

If I disconnect the battery, will I need the radio code or need to sync the keys at all?

Cheers,

DC
 
Darren C said:
Thanks Steve, I will give it a try happily.

The only constant is that the drivers side has remained inactive since it stopped working. The glass itself came to life when swapped to the passenger side, but doesn't work when back in its proper location. Bizarre that the passenger one has stopped since replacing; unless I dislodged a connection, but don't believe this to be the case.

If I disconnect the battery, will I need the radio code or need to sync the keys at all?

Cheers,

DC
Click to expand...


You should not need the radio codes since your car is a later model (but worth having it to hand just in case)

Resynching the keys is easy peasy, just put one in the ignition and turn it on, then press unlock, turn off, remove and then do the other key.

By the way this ONLY works if the keys have already been paired to the car, as yours have.

Steve B
 
Just tried and I am back to as was; passenger side working again, drivers side not. Damn shame when these little niggles creep in.

Good idea though Steve.
 
Darren C said:
Just tried and I am back to as was; passenger side working again, drivers side not. Damn shame when these little niggles creep in.

Good idea though Steve.
Click to expand...


At least it did something I suppose.

But you need to get a multimeter on the drivers mirror wiring to see if you are getting voltage.

It is likely to be a bad connection in the wire from the mirror head to the door post wiring.

Steve B
 
One gadget I don't have ironically. I will either purchase one or borrow my dads. I'd prefer to avoid having to remove the door card too; although not overly challenging, there is always a risk that things will break.
 
Remember that the wiring from the mirror is ends up in a 16 pin connector on door control module. Pin 5 and 6. I don't know the construction of the door control module, but it could be controlled by a relay in the door control module and the relay activated by a can bus signal.
 
Forgive my ignorance, I assume that you can't simply replace the relay and would need a new door control module?
 
Darren C said:
One gadget I don't have ironically. I will either purchase one or borrow my dads. I'd prefer to avoid having to remove the door card too; although not overly challenging, there is always a risk that things will break.
Click to expand...

Nothing to break there, I removed it on my driver side 15 times, 3 screws and plastic plugs, just dont pull it too far from the door before you snap the tweeter out.
I couldn't fix the mirror heating on driver side, I gave up.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Recently fixed a leak on the passenger side, so I have experience of removing the card; always a worrier me.

Perhaps this mirror issue only affects Cobalt Blue cars... ;) :p

6stings said:
Nothing to break there, I removed it on my driver side 15 times, 3 screws and plastic plugs, just dont pull it too far from the door before you snap the tweeter out.
I couldn't fix the mirror heating on driver side, I gave up.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
 
If there is a relay, it is an integral part of the control module, probably an electronic relay instead of an electro-mechanical relay.

If the relay function exist in the door control module and it is controlled by a can bus signal, there bust also be a 12V feed to the relay. That feed is either a common feed to other consumers in the door such as lock, window etc. or an exclusive feed to mirror heating. Either way it must have a fuse.
 
steaman said:
If there is a relay, it is an integral part of the control module, probably an electronic relay instead of an electro-mechanical relay.

If the relay function exist in the door control module and it is controlled by a can bus signal, there bust also be a 12V feed to the relay. That feed is either a common feed to other consumers in the door such as lock, window etc. or an exclusive feed to mirror heating. Either way it must have a fuse.
Click to expand...

I don't understand this. Where is the fuse?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
We know that the mirror heating is controlled by the same switch as the heated rear window.
We do know that the wiring from the mirror ends up in a 16 pin connector on door control module.
The wiring diagram tells us that the door control module is connected to the Can Bus and has a +12V power feed from Fuse 41 on the (door on the driver side (LHD?) and Fuse 39 for the other door.
It seems as the door only has one power feed and that would rule our blown fuse is the window or door lock is operational. This in not confirmed.
If the heating is working on one door, the remaining possible causes are the wiring and connector between the door control module and the mirror or the door control module.
 
We know that the mirror heating is controlled by the same switch as the heated rear window.
- The switch works fine, so do the heating, except on the left mirror.

We do know that the wiring from the mirror ends up in a 16 pin connector on door control module.
- 3 door modules tested, 2 used and one brand new, the latest installed.

The wiring diagram tells us that the door control module is connected to the Can Bus and has a +12V power feed from Fuse 41 on the (door on the driver side (LHD?) and Fuse 39 for the other door.
It seems as the door only has one power feed and that would rule our blown fuse is the window or door lock is operational.
- Everything is operational, except the left mirror heating.

This in not confirmed.
- Confirmed.

If the heating is working on one door, the remaining possible causes are the wiring and connector between the door control module and the mirror or the door control module.

- The control module is new and everything inside the mirror and the wiring was replaced.
...
What would you do next?
 
Have you measured if you have 12V on the mirror connectors?
If not, have you measured if you have 12V from one of the connectors to a ground point (confirmed connected to battery -12V) part? Next is to do the same measurement between one of the connectors and a proven +12V point. This will identify if you lack +12V, -12V or both.
If you dont have 12V between the mirror connectors, you have to repeat the measurement on the other end of the wires, pin 5 and 6 on the 16 pin connector on the door control module.
Check if you have 12V power supply to the door control module on the 10 pin black connector (-12V on pin #1, and +12V on pin #2 and on pin #6)
 
Thank you very much!
I believe the voltage to the door module is missing, now I know where to check!
 
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