Project LNO

nin

nin

A2OC Donor
Hi all

I thought I’d start a thread in this project, although it’s likely to be a long one, and not really much different to all the others. But at least it will help me chart my own progress! The first step was to find a good base car - after looking at a few fairly tired examples, Richardh’s 1.4 TDi popped up on the forum.

It’s a low mileage (70k) SE in dolphin grey and N0G/YG interior that I still haven’t worked out what colour that is.

Richard clearly looked after it well before he sadly passed away, I was glad to be able to give it a new home.

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We set out from Uxbridge- first stop some fuel, ah. Door pillar buttons don’t work, but it’s easy enough to pop the grey panel and push the lever to pop the flap.

40 odd miles of motorway and A roads back to Abingdon, the car feels great. Really tight, no untoward noises and performing well. There was a slight problem with battery but just because the terminals weren’t tightened, very soon resolved.

Parked it up and left it for the night.

In the morning, I got the VCDS fired up and read it’s mind. Ah. A couple of pages of fault codes, many clearly indicating the CCU is flaky. And the car doesn’t know I’d the doors are open or closed. Hmm.

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But on the good side, the engine bay looks ok

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And there this

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
So, first port of call - a new comfort unit. Are these just a straight plug and play?
 
nin said:
So, first port of call - a new comfort unit. Are these just a straight plug and play?
Click to expand...
Some, or most of the error codes could well be historic, and related to battery connection or condition, (long time unused). Clear all the codes, scan to make sure they're all/most cleared. Go for a drive, then scan again. Then you'll know what you need to work on.
Mac.
 
Hi Simon,

That’s a Dolphin Grey A2 with a Platinum interior.

nin said:
So, first port of call - a new comfort unit. Are these just a straight plug and play?
Click to expand...
Although the Q-type CCCUs are known to be fragile, there’s actually nothing I can see here that conclusively points to a failed unit.
Replacement CCCUs are not plug and play unless, by sheer coincidence, the one you buy happens to be from a car requiring identical CCCU coding to yours.

Cheers,

Tom
 
Thanks Tom

As expected you’re right, I’ve conditioned the battery over a couple of days on the Ctech charger, cleared all the codes and driven it a bit. The codes that come back are around doors not ‘de-safe’.

It’s clear that the car doesn’t recognise when the drivers door or driver side pax door are open - the interior lights don’t come on, and I confirmed with VCDS live readings.

So I guess that may also be why the fuel flap release doesn’t work, hopefully.

Also getting an ABS code but no warning light, so I think that’s battery related.

So I guess the door locking mechanisms are coming out. Yay.
 
nin said:
Thanks Tom

As expected you’re right, I’ve conditioned the battery over a couple of days on the Ctech charger, cleared all the codes and driven it a bit. The codes that come back are around doors not ‘de-safe’.

It’s clear that the car doesn’t recognise when the drivers door or driver side pax door are open - the interior lights don’t come on, and I confirmed with VCDS live readings.

So I guess that may also be why the fuel flap release doesn’t work, hopefully.

Also getting an ABS code but no warning light, so I think that’s battery related.

So I guess the door locking mechanisms are coming out. Yay.
Click to expand...
Good Evening,

The door lock issue to me is screaming microswitch. This is extremely common and well documented on here, put 'microswitch' into forum Search and spend the rest of today reading the links, and yes it is why the petrol flap activation is wayward.

You are local to me, our paths might cross.

Andy
 
Hi Andy. Thanks for the pointer, and I’ve watched the YouTube vids, it will be a job for the bank holiday weekend I think.

I’ll keep an eye out for you!
 
Day 4 of ownership. Well unfortunately the car isn’t quite the pampered example I was hoping for, but caveat emptor and all that, so it just means I’ll need to take a little longer to get it right.

The good parts:
The engine pulls superbly, clutch and gearbox are super-tight, suspension is great as a 70k miler should be
Overall inside it’s nice and tidy - bar the roof lining coming off.
Wheels are nicely finished with great tyres
Brakes are new all round, and front suspension and shocks are new, and feel it.
All windows work and there are no leaks
The ABS fault code has gone

The bad parts:
It’s been jacked on the sills, and the covers are broken, though the damage to the sills is retrieveable
All sorts of heat shielding is either missing or hanging off underneath
The ciggy lighter wasn’t working - but that was just a blown fuse
The dipstick has broken - which is odd because it was fine when I viewed the car, but broken after I collected it.
Fuel release button isn’t working - but because …
There are fault codes - luckily a load have gone since being cleared and since the battery has been properly conditioned for a few days - but these are persistent:

Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: None
Controller: 8Z0 820 043 D
Component: A2-KLIMAVOLLAUTOMAT 0510
VCID: 3701E8080655
1 Fault Found:
00818 - Sensor for Evaporator Outlet Temperature (G263)
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus


Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: None
Controller: 8Z0 959 433 Q
Component: Komfortgerát T1D 0615
Coding: 06858
Shop #: WSC 02138
VCID: 54DBBF84B7E3
5 Faults Found:
01561 - Left Rear Door
59-10 - Can't Unlock - Intermittent
01561 - Left Rear Door
61-00 - Won't De-Safe
01562 - Right Rear Door
59-10 - Can't Unlock - Intermittent
01562 - Right Rear Door
61-00 - Won't De-Safe
01559 - Drivers Door
61-00 - Won't De-Safe

I have a drivers side front and rear locking units coming from @A2Steve, but I’m wondering if there’s more to it than a microswitch?
 
And to save a bit on upgrades - as I’m going to use my phone for all my nav, I’ll not be fitting the RNSE, MMI or double Din dash.

So I have a very good RNSE and MMI available that will pop up on the sales board soon.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 
The G263 is a common fault. Mine has that too. It’s a bit of a pig to change but documented well on this forum

best wishes

J
 
birtyA2 said:
The G263 is a common fault. Mine has that too. It’s a bit of a pig to change but documented well on this forum

best wishes

J
Click to expand...

Thanks J, I’m learning plenty! Which after all is part of the purpose of this project.
 
nin said:
Thanks J, I’m learning plenty! Which after all is part of the purpose of this project.
Click to expand...
As to the door codes it is conceivable that there are problems with all, being the same age. I would press on and sort the one to see if it drops off the list.

J
 
The G263 sensor is actually quite easy, I’ve done 3 now, the difficult bit is finding it, but when you do spot it and figure out where to put your hand to get it, it’s easy!!
 
Ah you’ve go to love a car with a mind of its own.

LNO has today decided that it will recognise when the driver’s door is open, and it will let me use the B pillar button to open the fuel filler flap.

I wonder what surprises tomorrow will bring?
 
nin said:
Ah you’ve go to love a car with a mind of its own.

LNO has today decided that it will recognise when the driver’s door is open, and it will let me use the B pillar button to open the fuel filler flap.

I wonder what surprises tomorrow will bring?
Click to expand...
That confirms the problem as being cracked solder on the door unit itself. In warmer weather like today the solder expands and bridges the gap. If it goes cooler again you’ll find the problem reoccurs.

Tom C fixed the same fault on my driver’s door lock by removing the unit and reflowing the solder.
 
Yep - just went out and it’s not working again. I’ve got some replacements coming, I can swap them out and practice my solder flow at leisure.
 
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