Wont start after engine rebuild

Shmeeefly said:
Right the engineer in me has told me to investigate further into where i got my initial information from and I think I have found how i went wrong !! I watched this video -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lo6wpKdBoUE --- and he tells you to make sure the hole in the ring goes at the top, which is what i did, but now after watching the video back I noticed the gaps seemed to be different in the ring ??? :-( and now I have found this video ---- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1P32pveQ4ok ---- in a different language but he seems to be telling whoever to align the hole at the right hand notch at the bottom....

I've included images of the difference below
View attachment 31672 the one I did but ring seems to be different

View attachment 31673 the one I think I should have done as it has the same ring in it with the gap in line with the hole.

Can anyone confirm this please
Click to expand...

Can someone confirm this is probably the case before I start stripping it tomorrow ... Please
 
Nope still No start although it does turn over allot better and has started to start but cuts out straight away after much cranking, I removed the gearbox and aligned the ring properly now as you can see from the pictures below, I have spares for everything so if anyone has any other suggestions, such as swapping something ? I would be so grateful as I have spent over a week on this now and need it running asap

DSC_0128.JPG
 
Sorry for asking this again, but are you sure that it is not related to the immobiliser?
If it is related to that it would start and then immediately cut out again. You would get the car/ key warning light to show that the immobiliser has been triggered, so I am guessing that this is not the cause or you would have spotted that warning. But there is no harm in asking, just to make sure.

Steve B
 
Birchall said:
Sorry for asking this again, but are you sure that it is not related to the immobiliser?
If it is related to that it would start and then immediately cut out again. You would get the car/ key warning light to show that the immobiliser has been triggered, so I am guessing that this is not the cause or you would have spotted that warning. But there is no harm in asking, just to make sure.

Steve B
Click to expand...

To be honest I have never driven the car so I would not know what to look for or how the immobilser light behaves ? oh and your A2 looks amazing :)
 
Last edited:
Youl see when you turn the ignition on a yellow car symbol in the instrument cluster this light should go out when you try to start and not flash , how fast is the engine turning over , as a rebuilt engine may be a little tight do to all the extra oiling and beeding in needed so if your starter motors a bit lazy it might just be its not turning over fast enough for the ecu to start injecting fuel , on that note you have got the fuel lines the correct way around so its holding fuel pressure , or possibly the fuel pressure reg could be faulty so not enough fuel pressure , the list goes on as very hard to diagnose..
 
Shmeeefly said:
To be honest I have never driven the car so I would not know what to look for or how the immobilser light behaves ? oh and your A2 looks amazing :)
Click to expand...

Thank you.

The picture shows the immobiliser warning light (circled in blue), if this comes on before you start the car (and remains on, or flashes) then your car key has lost its pairing to the immobiliser. Do you have a second key that you can try?

When the key is not matched to the immobiliser it will start for about a second and then die and the warning light will flash again to indicate that.

Try it and let us know how you get on and if this warning is not on then we will have to try something else.

Immobiliser.PNG

Steve B
 
JIGSAW said:
Youl see when you turn the ignition on a yellow car symbol in the instrument cluster this light should go out when you try to start and not flash , how fast is the engine turning over , as a rebuilt engine may be a little tight do to all the extra oiling and beeding in needed so if your starter motors a bit lazy it might just be its not turning over fast enough for the ecu to start injecting fuel , on that note you have got the fuel lines the correct way around so its holding fuel pressure , or possibly the fuel pressure reg could be faulty so not enough fuel pressure , the list goes on as very hard to diagnose..
Click to expand...
The engine is turning over quick enough to start as I libricated everything when I installed it all and hand cranked it a bit to free it all up, as for fuel lines I think they are on correctly as they were in the same position from when they cam off, although I was not the person who origanally took the original engine apart. But they were not twisted or anything so i'm assuming they are right, can you tell by anything ? any idea whatn the bestway is to test the pressure ?
 
Birchall said:
Thank you.

The picture shows the immobiliser warning light (circled in blue), if this comes on before you start the car (and remains on, or flashes) then your car key has lost its pairing to the immobiliser. Do you have a second key that you can try?

When the key is not matched to the immobiliser it will start for about a second and then die and the warning light will flash again to indicate that.

Try it and let us know how you get on and if this warning is not on then we will have to try something else.

View attachment 31785

Steve B
Click to expand...

Hey Steve I will look and see how it behaves tomorrow and update you, I do have another key but it seems to be dead so I will replace the bat on that too :)
 
Right ..... This is killing me ! Today I changed the fuel rail + Injectors, Throttle body, and MAF sensor and it starts now but runs like a 95 year old trying to do a
marathon :-( I checked the fuel pipes and they are correct going into the fuel rail and connected to the ecu and retreived the code P0170 but cant figure out why it keeps throwing up this code ?? I have reset it twice and it keeps coming up with this code :-( Also When I push the throttle it does nothing ?? I can hear the throttle body opening but the engine does nothing other than almost stalls or just does stall ?? unless I force the body to open fully and it runs crap but even when I force it, it still struggles.. I took a video of it being a nob ! I have also checked the wiring and that seems fine on every sensor and the imob is not stopping it from running so I'm stumped to be honest, oh and I put fresh fuel in it as well. The video is below

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8xSKbffqXo
 
Its not something simple like plug leads on wrong as remember them being a weird configuration, ive not got my haynes manual at home but they dont plug on the coil pack in a standard firing order, it was something like plug 1 to A on coil pack 2 to B ect ect as tiny letters on the coil pack and not as youd expect
 
Last edited:
JIGSAW said:
Its not something simple like plug leads on wrong as remember them being a weird configuration, ive not got my haynes manual at home but they dont plug on the coil pack in a standard firing order, it was something like plug 1 to A on coil pack 2 to B ect ect as tiny letters on the coil pack and not as youd expect
Click to expand...

I have 2 coil packs both with leads already plugged it and strait off engines and tried em both and same problem
 
I just had a look in my store as sure i had a spare coil pack from yasmin and it was there with leads still attached , worth a check as you never know ya luck ... firing order 1342
IMG_2717.jpg
but dont hold me to it being correct as posibly ive just plugged the leads on in any oh order to keep them all together

just checked your utube video again and youv got them in a different order , fingers n toes crossed for ya
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top