Wont start after engine rebuild

JIGSAW said:
I just had a look in my store as sure i had a spare coil pack from yasmin and it was there with leads still attached , worth a check as you never know ya luck ...
View attachment 31791
but dont hold me to it being correct as posibly ive just plugged the leads on in any oh order to keep them all together

just checked your utube video again and youv got them in a different order , fingers n toes crossed for ya
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How can you tell I've got them wrong you beaver lmfao ?? surely 2 packs off two different engines cant be wrong ??
 
i just followed lead 1 to coil pack in your video and youv got lead 3 position for number 1 so 180 out and worth a shot but like i said i will pop the bonnet on my 1.4 in the morning for you but wont be home till late afternoon to reply
 
JIGSAW said:
i just followed lead 1 to coil pack in your video and youv got lead 3 position for number 1 so 180 out and worth a shot but like i said i will pop the bonnet on my 1.4 in the morning for you but wont be home till late afternoon to reply
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Brilliant :) will check here in the tmoz :) Thanks jigsaw
 
JIGSAW said:
if you want to pm me your number ile let you know as soon as ive checked if that helps as feel your pain as such and bet you cant wait for her to pur as she should

Regards Gary
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Hey Gary

Havent looked at the car yet as the day has been mad but after looking at your pic and the pic I have it looks as though they are right :-(
DSC_0080.JPG
 
I may be wrong here, but from memory the AUA fires two plugs at the same time, one spark is waisted as one of the cylinders is on the exhaust stroke
If I'm remembering correctly the two sparks at the same time thing then 1 & 4 plug leads could be swapped over without making any difference, as could 3 & 2 (assuming a firing order of 1,3,4,2)
Cheers,
 
ive had all the plugs out and conected before testing for good sparks and sure id of noticed 2 firing at the same time
 
Have you tried marking the crank shaft pulley and a reference point with tippex for top dead centre and then using an old fashioned timing light see were the timing is actually being set.
It should be somewhere about 5 to 12 deg before TDC at tick over, obviously you will not have a scale to work with so you will have to guestimate where 5 to 12 deg BTDC is, but it will prove that the ignition timing is in the right ball park.
I suspect that this is the route of your problem, somewhere in your rebuild the crank sensor and the ring that tells it where TDC is have got misaligned.. If i am correct then not only will the ignition timing be out, but also the injection timing will of out as well, this means that the fuel is being injected at the wrong point in the firing cycle and the spark is being generated at the wrong point in the firing cycle.
It would be great if you could use another AUA engine to measure the ignition timing, but I guess that is unlikely.

You can confirm TDC by removing a No 1 spark plug, inserting a long thin rod and SLOWLY rotating the engine, the rod will rise as you are approaching TDC, when it is at its uppermost that is TDC. This method is not particularly accurate as it is very difficult to determine when the rod is at its highest point, but it should be near enough to determine if the timing is in the ballpark
I suspect it will be a long way out or spot on

The other thing it could be a fried ECU, I have a spare known good one that you can have a load off if it helps (I assume that you have never had this A2 running correctly before the engine strip down)

Cheers,
 
im sure theres a timing mark on the cam belt pulley cover already so depromans idea of a timing light might help to strike another thing of the list of posibiltys of whats amiss
 
depronman said:
Have you tried marking the crank shaft pulley and a reference point with tippex for top dead centre and then using an old fashioned timing light see were the timing is actually being set.
It should be somewhere about 5 to 12 deg before TDC at tick over, obviously you will not have a scale to work with so you will have to guestimate where 5 to 12 deg BTDC is, but it will prove that the ignition timing is in the right ball park.
I suspect that this is the route of your problem, somewhere in your rebuild the crank sensor and the ring that tells it where TDC is have got misaligned.. If i am correct then not only will the ignition timing be out, but also the injection timing will of out as well, this means that the fuel is being injected at the wrong point in the firing cycle and the spark is being generated at the wrong point in the firing cycle.
It would be great if you could use another AUA engine to measure the ignition timing, but I guess that is unlikely.

You can confirm TDC by removing a No 1 spark plug, inserting a long thin rod and SLOWLY rotating the engine, the rod will rise as you are approaching TDC, when it is at its uppermost that is TDC. This method is not particularly accurate as it is very difficult to determine when the rod is at its highest point, but it should be near enough to determine if the timing is in the ballpark
I suspect it will be a long way out or spot on

The other thing it could be a fried ECU, I have a spare known good one that you can have a load off if it helps (I assume that you have never had this A2 running correctly before the engine strip down)

Cheers,
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I will be honest I have never used a timimg light in my life :-( so wouldnt know where to start with one.
I'm sure I did the timing right as I aligned the notch on the crankshaft to the block then aligned the cams to the holes and the little dots on each cam, I did have a problem with the timing ring as I fitted it wrong because there seems to be two different types for some reason as you can see previously in this post but took the gearbox off and corrected the problem and took pics to show it was correct.

PM me with how much you would like for the ECU mate much appreciated :)
 
I will be doing this lot asap

Compression test for all four cylinders. Should be at least 10. May be up to 14 bar.
No more as 1 (max 1.5 on old one) bar different between any cylinder.
Second, change spark plugs, ignition coil. Change ignition wires.
Test intake manifold for leaks, same for exhaust manifold.
Test EGR, test Lambda.
Read fault codes from ECU. Reset, check after test ride again.
Should maintain only one, misfire in cylinder 2.
 
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Replaced EGR, HT Leads, plugs and Knock sensor and no change :-( Compression test 1=6bar 2=7bar 3=8bar 4=7bar ? is this ok
I'm off to check for air leaks, fuel filter and air filter now
 
I cant hear any air leaks ??? So I've got a feeling it might be down to lack of fuel pressure ??? the car was sat for a couple of years so might it be a skanky old fuel filter causing lack of fuel pressure ?? when I took the fuel pipes off to swap the fuel rail they didnt seem to have a massive amount of pressure behind them ?? where as before when I removed fuel pipes from my saab 95 the fuel lines had loads of pressure in them and spat fuel everywhere ??
 
I'm literally going to burn this bloody thing to the ground soon :-( I took the inlet manifold off and found the pipe going from the manifold into the steering column was not connected so I got excited and fit it all back on with a new manifold and crankshaft sensor just incase and STILL NOTHING !!!!!!!!!!!! I'm loosing the will to livbe now
 
Shmeeefly said:
.... I took the inlet manifold off and found the pipe going from the manifold into the steering column was not connected...
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That doesn't sound right, are you sure you have connected the right pipe?

Did you scan again, if so what fault codes do you have?

As suggested earlier it would be useful to check the ignition timing with a strobe light to rule that out, although my money would be on an air leak somewhere.

Steve
 
What doesn't sound right mate ??
and code :
P0170
Possible causes:
Intake air leaks (Checked and is fine)
Faulty front heated oxygen sensor (Checked and is fine)
Ignition misfiring
Faulty fuel injectors Exhaust gas leaks Incorrect fuel pressure Lack of fuel (Changed)
Faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor (Changed)
Incorrect Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose connection
 
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