Open to the floor

  • Thread starter Deleted member 20348
  • Start date
Tuesday 6th February 2024

Hello,

This project has crested the hill leaving a lot of road left to travel, hopefully freewheeling all the way.

Question..

What is the best way to reuse the remnants of the parts car
to get the most out of the resource?
I don't know the answer.

The electrical sensors and ECU, fuses, relays and heater motors.
... oh and the headlights and one tail light will be retained as spares for KA05.

Some of the running gear for example drive shafts, front struts will be swapped to refresh the 258k car. Left on vehicle for next owner.

But that still leave a lot of car that could be useful to the right person .

Things such as the dashboard, radio, head liner, cup holders,
door locks, windows, wiring looms, climate control unit, are free to a good home.

I believe the easiest way is to offer the whole car, minus the parts I removed is on the market page.

If this method is successful I will not need to list each part separately which will save time.

With my thoughts somewhat organized I shall post the car on the market/car parts section of the forum.

I think it's important to say the car is only a rolling shell.
20240203_074730.jpg

:)👍
 
Last edited by a moderator:
It was the 21st of January, a Sunday, the day before storm Jocelyn.
There's something about driving in bad weather that is appealing to me.
I locating the yard in Wakefield got out the car when a helpful chap suggesting I could park closer if I was to turn around and use the other gate.
Screenshot_20240207_054644_Maps.jpg

We got talking while looking at the cars.
They were all much the same nothing stood out from the crowd.
The chap said that there were 2 colour storm cars under cover in the lock up. "How do we get in?" I asked. The owner wasn't anywhere to be seen.
A nearby garage mechanic came to our aid and got the owner.
I set the ground work asking if he would deliver a car if I bought one, he could. With that settled it was time to go inside.

The lock up strip lights lit the vast space and from beneath the layers of dust the automotive jewels shone.

The guy selling the cars was addicted to VWs and a few other choice motors.

After some time we finally arrived at the 2 colour storm cars, one red, one yellow. I opened the door of the red car and stuck my head inside. You couldn't get in the car as it was parked too close to the ones around it. "Looks alright this one" I said "how much you looking for?"

A deal was made that included the delivery.

As I mentioned earlier it was a Sunday, delivery was seven days off on a Saturday.

It took a while but Saturday finally arrived and true to his word so did the car. It was covered in a think layer of dust and the engine wouldn't start. I jumped into the drivers seat and launched down the ramps off the transporter rolling the short length of the cul-de-sac and onto the drive.
20240127_085235.jpg

That was ten days ago. I am feeling tired but the restoration is fueling me to the turn of the key.

This car, the red colour storm, reminds me of my previous 205. Bought as a non runner, the timing belt was one tooth out and used as a daily for 11 year until sold it at 178k miles.
Driving a car is something I take for granted but on reflection I am fortunate.

IMG_20170521_075017225_HDR.jpg

1769cc Td 205 junior
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Friday 9th February 2024

Hello

At about 2030 hours I went to the shed to check the condition of a couple of parts taken from the 67k engine.

What I found was damage caused by an engine that has got hot. Hot enough to melt and deform plastic.

Speculation,...
Update 12/02/24
I mixed up the MOT history's, it was KA05JYS that had the inoperative fan.


In this situation it's a gamble on will it or won't it run and run on reliably?

I did see it running before purchasing and checked for the usual HGF signs. I drove the car off the trailer and onto the driveway, can't be all that bad?

On the bright side if a replacement engine is required, fitting will be much quicker as I won't be dismantling a parts car at the same time.

The crystal blue write off has provided many good parts and I fully recommend buying a parts car and saving as much of it as you can.
It's a great learning experience and your not worried about making mistakes when disassembling.
If you have the space, time, tools and gumption to do this.... Go for it.

Still on a Winner!

A twist of fate.....
20240209_202339.jpg

Crank case oil separator
20240209_193925.jpg

Air intake manifold


HGF= head gasket failure
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hello,

I agree, head off check for hgf and distortion.

The engine must have seen some years of neglect. The cylinder head, oil galleries and crank case bearings may all be suboptimal.

I can't justify a rebuild over buying a known good BBY.
A BBY teardown would be of interest but I'm not going to condemn it just yet.

I can do a compression test but haven't the kit to do a leak down.
The car had the usual VCDS unexpected air but with those melted plastic parts there's no wonder.

2 Faults Found:
16786 - EGR System
P0402 - 35-00 - Excessive Flow
17550 - Load Calculation Cross Check
P1142 - 35-10 - Lower Limit Exceeded
 
20240210_142613.jpg

20240210_143049.jpg

20240210_145433.jpg

Edit
Exhaust under body heat shield nuts
20240219_140333.jpg

The plastic nuts were drilled to allow them to screw onto the underbody pegs. Increase you're drill diameter until they simply self tap on by hand. The tightening clamping force a just a hair more than hand tight. (technical stuff)

Fixing the weather / heat shield - another thread

Recently I fixed my weather / heat shield with the help of Matt's (wilco184) excellent thread from earlier in the year: http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread.php?30198-Rivnuts . I had some variations in the materials used and fixing. ======= Focus of work ======= The main focus was the...
www.a2oc.net www.a2oc.net
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Goodbye old friend
20240211_082207.jpg


The parts car left this morning eight days after it arrived. More parts going to be reused.
:) 👍
(11/02/24)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Where's your head at?
Basement Jaxx

What I require is a list. (that's where my heads at! )
  • Crank sensor
  • Clutch slave cylinder
  • Gear linkage
  • Heat sheilds
  • Tank strap
  • Driveshafts
  • Death pipe
  • Steering rack
  • Throttle body
  • Thermostat
  • ERG
That should do for now.

Edit
Some items from the list
20240212_153035.jpg20240212_161435.jpg
20240212_143313.jpg20240212_152354.jpg
20240210_120620.jpg20240215_084440.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Three of the heat shields had corroded fixings. I used the following 'How To' threads one written by @wilco184 and two written by @Alan_uk as a guide to fix them.
20240214_162926.jpg20240215_083805.jpg20240214_162953.jpg20240214_163022.jpg20240214_163115.jpg20240214_163157.jpg20240214_163235.jpg20240214_163259.jpg

The thickness of alloy used and time spent shaping were suboptimal but you'll not see it.
I watch Low Buck Garage on YT he's changed my understanding of 'good enough'.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
What was a quick job of removing the heat shields turned into a full day detail cleaning the floor pan and reparing broken shield mount fixings. (looks like the list is evolving)
They will last a couple more years now.
20240214_165824.jpg20240214_161610.jpg20240214_143814.jpg20240214_135101.jpg20240214_191842.jpg20240214_135859.jpg20240214_135009.jpg20240214_185213.jpg
Google search...
M6 X 20mm Big Head Male Threaded Fibreglass Mould Screw for the fixings I used in the repair
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The body panels have arrived

20240212_124556.jpg20240212_125352.jpg20240212_125054.jpg20240212_125132.jpg20240212_125217.jpg
They will be an acceptable improvement with the added bonus of being cheaper and less time consuming than the respray option.
More on fitting these later on.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Engine bay clean up items
  • Face mask
  • Wire brush
  • Tooth brush
  • Oily rag
  • Old oil from engine oil filter (recycling?)
  • Old blunt screwdriver
This is an old fashioned and messy way to protect the engine from oxidation.

The oxidation looks like salt deposites, white and crumbly.

20240212_141251.jpg

Edit before
20240215_005117.jpg

When the engine becomes hot the oil will burn off. I don't know the environmental impact of cleaning this way compared to using an off the shelf product such as Gunk.
20240212_141303.jpg

Still some mopping up to remove excess oil with the blunt screwdriver and rag.

Edit
In the post below @Little Dog mentions a product that is perfect for this job. Thank you :) 👍
ACF50-2018.jpg

There looks to be a Hewey on the can!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Cleaning with Gunk leaves components wide open to corrosion so I frequently wipe down with an oily rag. I tend to use ACF50 or fresh engine oil. ACF50 smalls nice as the engine warms up and fresh oil is less smelly than used oil and does not stain (used diesel oil is very bad).
I would say recycling oil as a cleaner is more environmentally friendly than Gunk as the Gunk and oil removed unfortunately ends up down the drain or in my case in household waste.
 
(15/02/24)
It's taken far longer than expected to repair the rear of the car.

Jobs list
  • Fit fluro yellow jacking points
  • Rear bumper chrome trim replaced
  • Fixed air vent below NS tail light
  • Rear beam mounting bolts refreshed
  • New springs & rubbers
  • New shock absorber bump stops
  • Rear beam rust removal
The rear copper brake lines tomorrow plus the OS handbrake cable, heat sheilds and exhaust.
Then back to the engine bay.

20240215_144630.jpg20240215_101936.jpg
20240215_110103.jpg20240215_135408.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
rotifer said:
(15/02/24)
It's taken far longer than expected to repair the rear of the car.

Jobs list
  • Fit fluro yellow jacking points
  • Rear bumper chrome trim replaced
  • Fixed air vent below NS tail light
  • Rear beam mounting bolts refreshed
  • New springs & rubbers
  • New shock absorber bump stops
  • Rear beam rust removal
The rear copper brake lines tomorrow plus the OS handbrake cable, heat sheilds and exhaust.
Then back to the engine bay.

View attachment 119266View attachment 119268
View attachment 119269View attachment 119270
Click to expand...
Are you going for pure copper pipes or copper-nickel ones? The latter ones gives me a more sturdy impression and are the ones I use.
 
Hello Joga,
I have a roll of copper nickle brake line. I find bending into shape by hand a bit more tricky than copper. Previously on the Peugeot car I owned I used copper pipe due to availability and lower price.
I did a land rover rear axle brake set up last spring shaped without using bending tools in copper line.
I was happy with the result.
20230306_075015.jpg

It's a bit wavey👋o_O
(A neglected land rover defender is a challenging vehicle to do a light restoration upon, I don't recommend it)
Edit
In February open to the elements on the driveway.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
rotifer said:
Hello Joga,
I have a roll of copper nickle brake line. I find bending into shape by hand a bit more tricky than copper. Previously on the Peugeot car I owned I used copper only pipe due to availability and lower price.
I did a land rover rear axle brake set up last spring shaped without using bending tools in copper line.
I was happy with the result.


View attachment 119297
It's a bit wavey😀👍
(A neglected land rover defender is a challenging vehicle to do a light restoration upon, I don't recommend it)
Click to expand...
Only you will know, oh hang on ...
Mac.
 
Used the golf club vice grip to hold the shock absorber while removing the nylock nut.
20240216_124853.jpg20240216_125110.jpg20240216_131621.jpg20240216_131656.jpg20240216_132225.jpg20240216_132415.jpg
The nylock nuts were overtightened. They don't need to be farmer tight.

Edit
The rust you can see on the rear damper body was caused by the failed rubber bump stop letting go of the plastic protector which fell down and wore away the painted surface.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The rear shock mounts were problematic.
20240216_135939.jpg20240216_133915.jpg20240216_134715.jpg20240216_140656.jpg20240216_134421.jpg20240216_134631.jpg
Mounting bolts were cross threaded.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I’m following with interest the repairs you do. I’d like to suggest some tools that I don’t think you would regret having.
Top left brake pipe straightener. Straighten the pipe before bending creates a neat job.
Bottom left simple pipe bender, saves the fingers.
Right magnetic tap holders, converts tap to 1/4 and 3/8 drive socketry.

IMG_0948.jpeg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top