Open to the floor

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There are professional ways to care for bolts, this is not one of them.


The bolts on the rear beam mount were removed one by one.
The simple cleaning process, a Stanley knife blade to scrape off flakes of rust then wire brush and finally grease.

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Below is an excellent post by @Indi discussing bolt coatings.
Another couple of great posts by @Little Dog

Finding and preparing a new to me AMF

Audi Erwin. https://erwin.audi.com/erwin/logout.do Buy an hour, under a tenner. You get the correct info by VIN. Mac. yeah that's the one I've used for T5 before
www.a2oc.net www.a2oc.net
 
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- Rear Beam Revival -​

The handbrake cables

If your goig to do this job allow lots of spare time due to the level of complexity.

Use the list as a guide for handbrake maintenance, if unsure check the workshop manuals here ERwin.

Chock front wheels loosen rear wheel nuts, jack up car, put rear on axle stands, remove wheels, remove passenger seat, remove handbrake handle, cover & the12 volt socket cover, remove center tunnel trim, loosen 10mm cable adjustment nut. Remove the retaining clip that fastens the cable to handbrake. Undo the 13mm nuts holding handbrake to the body and lift free and wrap it in an old sheet.
Release the LH&RH cables from the drum brake arms and retract from the backplate, remove the rear section of exhaust if you have a petrol car. If you car is diesel release
the whole exhaust from the rubbers and rest it on props & rear beam. Loosen the nuts on the heat shields an move them best you can out of the way this should gain access to the Y piece and LH&RH cable mounts. Concentrate on the metal joiners, using a flat blade screwdriver pry downwards on the x2 retaining tabs (they may break off) now remove of the captive cable ends. Retract the outer cable from the mounts on body of vehicle.
Replace with new if damaged, fitting is the reverse of removal.

@Little Dog thank you for this write up.

The difficult to access 'fuel tank cable' should be fitted first.

Helpful links

Cable lengths
Center Console
Guide Tube

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7zap parts catalogue
Good luck!

:) 👍
 
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- Rear Beam Revival -​

Springs, shock absorbers & brake lines

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Beam painted in situ
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Edit (20/02/24) Brake Flare Tool

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Copper nickle brake lines

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FEBI upper lower spring mounts
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Worn spring mounts
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Low cost rear springs
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Bump stops & plastic shields replaced
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Edit once I fix the flares on the brake lines and fully bleed the system and check for leaks. Then it's done

@Little Dog did a great rear beam restoration.
 
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rotifer said:
- Rear Beam Revival -​

Springs, shock absorbers & brake lines

View attachment 119456
Beam painted in situ
View attachment 119457
Copper nickle brake lines

View attachment 119461
FEBI upper lower spring mounts
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Worn spring mounts
View attachment 119459
Flare tool 3/16 SAE
View attachment 119462
Low cost rear springs
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Bump stops & plastic shields replaced
Click to expand...
I could be wrong but I think that is a classic mini brake pipe flare tool? For A2 ISO DIN is what I use.
Edit, yes it is the wrong tool. It has the capability to produce a double flare which is not an ISO option.
Edit 2 https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/how-to-flare-a-brake-pipe.53908/
 
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Little Dog said:
I could be wrong but I think that is a classic mini brake pipe flare tool? For A2 ISO DIN is what I use.
Edit, yes it is the wrong tool. It has the capability to produce a double flare which is not an ISO option.
Edit 2 https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/how-to-flare-a-brake-pipe.53908/
Click to expand...
(Post corrected 20/02/24)
After reading the exquisitely written instruction on how to make brake pipe flares by @Little Dog.

4.75mm DIN is required on an A2 and I have mistakenly used the wrong flare tool 😣
Thank you for noticing you may have just saved my life @Little Dog
🙏
 
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I’m not really sure where the idea that a German car would use SAE flares came from, I’ve seen it in several places though so you’re not alone. It took me a long time to get a straight answer, but it’s logical when you realise that Germany have DIN standards for this, why would they ever choose an American/English one?

If you use the SAE nuts, the type of flare you have, a “bubble” flare, is actually close enough that it will seal and work fine because the copper pipe can deform.

But the safest option is to get use the DIN “mushroom” flare as @Little Dog mentioned, and get the correct DIN nuts (no concave in the front)
 
Dear all,
If you're unsure about a job it pays to ask others on the forum for advice.
My mistake has been spotted and I'm truly thankful.

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- Rear Beam Revival -​
Drum Brake Adjustment

To adjust the 'so called' self adjuster mechanism I use a flat blade screwdriver to open the gap. This allows the pin to be moved up or down by hand to set the shoe distance from the drums.
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Six years of A2 ownership has netted this treasure.
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Saving a collection like this has stopped any worry about dropping bolts down the back of the engine.
When driving over a speed bump the undertray plays a tune.
 
a-zwo said:
I’m not really sure where the idea that a German car would use SAE flares came from, I’ve seen it in several places though so you’re not alone. It took me a long time to get a straight answer, but it’s logical when you realise that Germany have DIN standards for this, why would they ever choose an American/English one?

If you use the SAE nuts, the type of flare you have, a “bubble” flare, is actually close enough that it will seal and work fine because the copper pipe can deform.

But the safest option is to get use the DIN “mushroom” flare as @Little Dog mentioned, and get the correct DIN nuts (no concave in the front)
Click to expand...
Don’t do it the SAE connectors will screw into M10 * 1 but this is very bad practice.
 
-Front End Running Gear-​

Second verse same as the first....

(20/02/24)
How to do low cost rust removal & metal protection using basic tools.

The alternative is to remove the parts for paint or mask the area and paint on the vehicle. The 'clean and grease' works well and uses less time and consumables.
The grease does the same as paint. Slows down degradation of the parts caused by oxidation of the metal.
Which in-turn prolongs their service life.
  • Hammer
  • Old blunt screwdriver
  • Flat file
  • Toothbrush
  • Tub of grease
  • Rags
  • Gloves, face mask, safety specks
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Slightly different approach with the alloys.

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How to remove a stuck wheel by Eric the Car Guy

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Alloy wheel refurb tools
  • Bucket and water
  • Stanley knife blade
  • Wet and dry paper
  • Chrome cleaner paste
  • Car wax
  • Tub of grease
  • Gloves, face mask, safety specks

:) 👍
Edit
I don't often use the word rudimental


Edit 2
Clean and grease inside your wishbones with waxoyl focus your attention on the WISHBONE FAILURE ZONE😁
 
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-Timing Belt and lower ball joints-​
(23/02/24)
Used this fine weather we're having in Yorkshire to fit new track rod ends and lower ball joints.
Unfortunately the ball joints I purchased were miss-listed as suitable for an A2 so that was a dead end, but!... I fitted the old ones with new hardware. 🌞
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wishbone wheel bearing housing anti-roll bar F 8Z-3-019 683>> for Audi A2 Audi A2 (2000 - 2005)

Are you looking for quality spare parts for your Audi? Look no further! We have a wide selection of parts for Audi models, ranging from the A3 to the R8.
7zap.com 7zap.com
The second job on the list was to revisit the timing belt and investigate why the crank pulley was only turning 45 degrees and locking up. The previous day I'd removed the cam cover and must have made a mistake.

I removed the cover and saw that two of the rocker arms had dropped from their positions.
I fixed the mistake and refitted the cam cover.

I took some pictures of the parts under the camcover which look to be in reasonable condition.

When refitting the cam cover I use this sealing compound.

Wellseal Jointing Compound | Vehicle Sealant | Albert Jagger

Click to view this page on www.albertjagger.co.uk
www.albertjagger.co.uk www.albertjagger.co.uk
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Sealing compound

Later that evening motivated by the timing belt working as it should I wrote this guide.


Enjoy the journey
:) 👍
 
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Page 5
Who would have thought?

It's a comfy place to be.
The questions have dried up and there's just the odd 'like' thumbs now and again.
Here is a picture of a wheel animal to ponder.
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Photographed by Charles Krebs
 
Thanks Dave.
I was reflecting on the project and those first couple of weeks were hectic. I'm planning for the next project. Possibly an FSI.
Words of encouragement always welcomed.
:) 👍
 
Never driven an FSI.
Only my remapped TDI 75 and a 1.4 petrol

The engine parts are being fitted to the project car, so many of them are constructed from molded plastic. Some of the parts such as the intake manifold are stand alone pieces of design work.

Fig 1 the injectors have blue collars are they usually white?
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1 intake manifold
2 throttle body mount
3 crank case breather hose
4 crank case oil separator

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Not the neatest
 
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