TDi 75 AMF coolant leak from hoses tandem vacuum/fuel pump seals?

[audifan]

This was the thread I did on the thermostat....

Fastest way to replace water thermostat without removing alternator

After having problems tightening up the lower bolt after replacing the thermostat I looked around at other peoples suggestions as to how to do it and found this to be the fastest and easiest way to remove and refit the housing. Remove the spring clip that secures the hose to the thermostat...

www.a2oc.net

 

[froggy]

This was the thread I did on the thermostat....

Fastest way to replace water thermostat without removing alternator

After having problems tightening up the lower bolt after replacing the thermostat I looked around at other peoples suggestions as to how to do it and found this to be the fastest and easiest way to remove and refit the housing. Remove the spring clip that secures the hose to the thermostat...

www.a2oc.net

I’ve made a little ratchet device but no matter what way I turn it the screwdriver bit will not slot into the dreaded lower bolt. I bought some socket adapters to try the method of @DJ 190 but even with a short 25mm socket there is just no clearance in front of the alternator and no real lateral movement because of the thermostat housing. And here comes the rain ?

 

[audifan]

Both the tools you have are capable of removing the bolts. Have you tried just the socket on the bolt to see that it does fit and the hex is not damaged and the same for the bit to check the inner hex is not damaged? In both cases the tool is used from below.

 

[froggy]

Both the tools you have are capable of removing the bolts. Have you tried just the socket on the bolt to see that it does fit and the hex is not damaged and the same for the bit to check the inner hex is not damaged? In both cases the tool is used from below.

? I was trying from above! Well another lesson learned, rain has stopped play for today, but I will try again tomorrow. I did manage to get the coolant flange and coolant pipework finished and also the tandem pump seated. Am I right in thinking this is the correct torquing sequence - sorry I know you told me a diamond pattern but just to be sure?

Also, is my thinking correct, that I’ve got the tandem actuator sat in the camshaft correctly, as there is no way it would sit flush if it wasn’t?

Really appreciate your help in explaining things down to this level!

 

[audifan]

All looks OK to me. Once the drive dog aligns with the camshaft it can only fit one way. The lower bolt on the thermostat housing from below the upper from above.

 

[froggy]

I guess you were unlucky and still had a leaky Luk?
Two tips at this stage:
Buy a genuine VAG gasket, or at the very least one with blue silicone blobs applied.
There is no torque sequence but I tighten across diagonals in 4 stages, nip up all bolts (4), torque all bolts to the lower torque again in diagonal sequence. Torque the two larger bolts. Check the torque of each bolt is to spec.
It's a bit of a faff but for the first time in years my engine is dry.

I’ve finally gotten to this stage, the bolts are currently hand tight and I will torque them in the morning - could I ask, did you need an extension bar for the top rear bolt on the tandem? It seems there is a complicated (for me!) mathematic formula to adjust the torque to account for the extension bar. I can probably figure it out but did you need the bar yourself for that bolt?

 

[audifan]

If something increases the length ( or shortens ) the force applied length then the torque has to be adjusted. If you are merely using say an extension bar between the socket / bit and torque wrench then as there is no change to the force length the torque remains the same.

 

[froggy]

Thanks for that, I’m not going to pretend to understand this, but as you rightly say extension bars make no difference - which is a relief to me! My guess is that as long as the angle of force applied is not changed, then torque is not affected ?

 

[audifan]

Torque as lb ft. A 1 lb load applied at 1 ft length is the same as a 1/2 lb load at 2ft length or a 2lb load at 6 inches. If that makes sense to you.
The longer the length the less the load for the same torque. That is why a long bar to slacken wheel bolts is successful.

 

[johnyfartbox]

I really think Audifan should be applauded for his input to this thread.
And froggy for his continued questions and photo's of his progress.
I've yet to do this job on one of my A2s and will be using this .

 

[Erlingtheyounger]

I really think Audifan should be applauded for his input to this thread.
And froggy for his continued questions and photo's of his progress.
I've yet to do this job on one of my A2s and will be using this .

Good shout John. It’s not just on this though.

I can personally think of at least half a dozen occasions that Graham @audifan has kindly posted answering questions from me, On countless other occasions I’ve stumbled across his help on other threads which has made A2 ownership far easier than had I not. Then there’s the work coordinating the Volico order and the design of the arm rest etc…….

Whilst you’re not the only one Graham, you are without doubt a super chap and this forum is greatly enhanced by the help and advice you provide. So thank you. ?

 

[Little Dog]

Thanks for that, I’m not going to pretend to understand this, but as you rightly say extension bars make no difference - which is a relief to me! My guess is that as long as the angle of force applied is not changed, then torque is not affected ?

The torque applied is the same whether the extension is straight to the screw or is angled. It has to be the the torque wrench sets it. All of that torque arrives at the bolt head to turn it if the the extension is straight. If it is angled some of the torque applied attempts to twist the socket off the bolt head so less torque remains to turn the bolt.
Avoid wobble extensions and support the wrench so there is no angle. All of the torque will get to turn the screw.

 

[Little Dog]

I think my torque sequence was 3, 4, 1, 2, 3, 1.

Don't compromise on tools for this job, if the pump isn't quite right it will leak. You need this or an equivalent.

Edit, I see your tools were for the thermostat housing. A ball head allen key gets that lower screw.

 

[Little Dog]

I got distracted by tools, torques etc. didn't post what I intended to. Those pain in the butt tamper proof clips, some have a joint that can be pryed off. Look out for then saves angle grinder damage.

 

[froggy]

I certainly could not even attempt this without this club. Im sure anywhere else some of my questions would elicit responses such as “listen mate, if you don’t know how to do that don’t even think about touching the engine” “what an idiot” etc. not a bit of it on a2oc. The patience and care that people show in taking time from their day to help a stranger is astounding.

 

[froggy]

On we go. Here is a pic of the OEM fuel clips from Audi. Not sure if I can fit these but will have a go. I have some back up options thanks to @philward in case it goes wrong! I’m using a Sealey black 7-112nm torque wrench on the tandem, certainly not a top quality wrench but within my limited budget and hopefully good enough.

 

[Little Dog]

That Sealey torque wrench is a good tool It is a generic, high quality wrench that can be picked up uncalibrated off eBay. King Dick, Sealey and Laser calibrate and brand them. I have one for restricted access jobs, it is slimmer than a Norbar.

I can't quite see the issue with the clips, would you have a better picture?

Edit. Tap on the picture to get a clear version. Standard clip pliers or even standard pliers will do? Wear eye protection.

 

[froggy]

That Sealey torque wrench is a good tool It is a generic, high quality wrench that can be picked up uncalibrated off eBay. King Dick, Sealey and Laser calibrate and brand them. I have one for restricted access jobs, it is slimmer than a Norbar.

I can't quite see the issue with the clips, would you have a better picture?

Not sure if this shows it better Phil, pretty sure they are 12mm and luckily the set you recommended came with 10 x 12mm spring clips. Obviously the wrong tool for the job shown here, I think they might need some kind of thin bladed and angled pliers. Any of the hose clip tools I try, press against the round parts of the clip and will not compress the lugs.

 

[audifan]

That type of clip is designed to have the upper lug restrained, then the lower one compressed towards the upper one. For these I have had success using mole grips. Usual precautions to be taken by wearing eye protection and gloves. When I compress clamps I try to have it inside a bag until secure in the tool. If it does pop off at least it is contained in the bag.

 

[Little Dog]

Not sure if this shows it better Phil, pretty sure they are 12mm and luckily the set you recommended came with 10 x 12mm spring clips. Obviously the wrong tool for the job shown here, I think they might need some kind of thin bladed and angled pliers. Any of the hose clip tools I try, press against the round parts of the clip and will not compress the lugs.

I have a feeling those pliers are for a type of clip more common on Mercs. They compress an open C clip and the two ends hook together and hold.

Edit they are but this is a VAG fuel pipe clip from a petrol car.

The pliers are from the set recommended by @audifan in the next post.