A Polo that won't rust :)
- Thread starter B4Andra
- Start date
damadgeruk
A2OC Donor
Great information here, thank you. I'm local (Hamilton) with an FSI though unable to get pics at the moment. I'll check the thread when I'm back.
B4Andra
Member
So one of the reasons I was interested in doing this is that the seal kit I have needs a specific tool to get the bottom nylon ring on, and I don't have that tool.... So i thought, maybe if I get these guys to do it they will sort that out for me. No, the guy says he'll do everything EXCEPT the nylon o-ring. So I'm in 2 minds now about doing it at all.... Starting to feel like throwing money at something for the sake of it!
It was late last night and I have just realised I said Yaw sensor when in fact I meant Knock sensor. Sorry.
This thread offers some information
https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/a2-1-6-fsi-where-is-the-knock-sensor.25128/
Andy
This thread offers some information
https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/a2-1-6-fsi-where-is-the-knock-sensor.25128/
Andy
B4Andra
Member
Had a friend who suggested that was the case also. Thanks for the thread, now I wonder what the consequences of this being disconnected would be, on a modern engine.
It is interesting that member Nod at the end of the thread I linked commented his FSI ran MUCH better when he reconnected the knock sensor. Maybe you have found the principal cause of your car's rough running.
Now I have some information on sensor location I know where to start tomorrow trying to trace the correct cable route for the sensor but I am still pessimistic I will fail with the engine in situ, but I will try.
Andy
Now I have some information on sensor location I know where to start tomorrow trying to trace the correct cable route for the sensor but I am still pessimistic I will fail with the engine in situ, but I will try.
Andy
B4Andra
Member
I think just confirming that loom shouldn’t sit on top of those coolant hoses on the right side of the engine, would be sufficient. The wires all seem a little too tight.
I hope the rough running will all be resolved with this work on the intake, a combination of all the problems I have found - let’s not downplay the wrong throttle body! You are right, that post has the same unplugged sensor and the same dubious service history.
Hi,
Had a look at the route of your 'short' wire to the knock sensor on one my FSI's.
With reference to earlier posts I can report that wire does in fact go over the two coolant pipes.
Heading towards the knock sensor after the coolant pipes it bends down and is held by what looks like a specialised cranked cable support/grip.
You can just see the top of the clip in this pic.
The next bit of its route viewed from lower down.
It then disappears from my view.
I hope this helps.
Thinking about it I can see it makes sense to keep the cable slightly taut so it is not in contact with a hot engine block, but it should reach!
Andy
Had a look at the route of your 'short' wire to the knock sensor on one my FSI's.
With reference to earlier posts I can report that wire does in fact go over the two coolant pipes.
Heading towards the knock sensor after the coolant pipes it bends down and is held by what looks like a specialised cranked cable support/grip.
You can just see the top of the clip in this pic.
The next bit of its route viewed from lower down.
It then disappears from my view.
I hope this helps.
Thinking about it I can see it makes sense to keep the cable slightly taut so it is not in contact with a hot engine block, but it should reach!
Andy
B4Andra
Member
PIPE OF DEATH
The new pipe arrived through the week, I noticed today that there's a date stamp handily printed on the back of it... Turns out the reason the inlet had already been removed on mine was to replace this... The existing pipe was manufactured in 2015.
So I may just leave it, especially as it seems more awkward to remove as it first appears? Looks like it needs far more gubbins removed than I was planning! But then again I might be stuck, because it seems like my short cable problem is exasperated because it's not running behind the pipe where I reckon it should be....
Anyway, what all needs removed to get this thing out?
The new pipe arrived through the week, I noticed today that there's a date stamp handily printed on the back of it... Turns out the reason the inlet had already been removed on mine was to replace this... The existing pipe was manufactured in 2015.
So I may just leave it, especially as it seems more awkward to remove as it first appears? Looks like it needs far more gubbins removed than I was planning! But then again I might be stuck, because it seems like my short cable problem is exasperated because it's not running behind the pipe where I reckon it should be....
Anyway, what all needs removed to get this thing out?
B4Andra
Member
BRAKES OF DEATH
My slow rebuild has eventually reached the front brakes, or re-fitting them. As I rebuilt the front brakes today, I found one of the bolts/sliders just started spinning in it's thread - at some point it's either just rotted away or someone's over-tightened and ripped the guts out. It wasn't me - I was torquing up to the correct torque. Anyway I have ordered a set which is an insert to go in and repair the thread. Not ideal, but the replacement of the hub will be a major pain in the hole.
Very disappointing anyway, when it was all bolting back together lovely too. The other side bolted up fine, just this side that's knackered.
My slow rebuild has eventually reached the front brakes, or re-fitting them. As I rebuilt the front brakes today, I found one of the bolts/sliders just started spinning in it's thread - at some point it's either just rotted away or someone's over-tightened and ripped the guts out. It wasn't me - I was torquing up to the correct torque. Anyway I have ordered a set which is an insert to go in and repair the thread. Not ideal, but the replacement of the hub will be a major pain in the hole.
Very disappointing anyway, when it was all bolting back together lovely too. The other side bolted up fine, just this side that's knackered.
B4Andra
Member
SHOCKING!
So got the front shocks bolted up and happy over the weekend. Got the Myele mounts in the end, didn't want to be back under there to do the mounts. Don't care about the drop links so much, it's 20 minutes to swap them so if the Febi's don't last then it's no big deal. The anti-roll bar bush's were new Lemforder numbers, bought for buttons.
So this method of getting the strut into the hub carrier isn't the one in the workshop manual... And with good reason! Spring compressors are bad enough at the best of times.
On a side note, rebuilding all the gubbins associated with the brake fluid reservoir with the inlet manifold removed is much easier.
Console / Subframe alignment is interesting. The new wishbone was pushing against it so there was a bit of resistance to getting it back to where it belonged. The mark of the dirt gave me the perfect re-alignement marks!
Also, another thought, what the hell did we do to see all the hard to see corners before smartphones?! My phone has been brilliant for working on this, seeing round corners which wouldn't normally be seen around!
So got the front shocks bolted up and happy over the weekend. Got the Myele mounts in the end, didn't want to be back under there to do the mounts. Don't care about the drop links so much, it's 20 minutes to swap them so if the Febi's don't last then it's no big deal. The anti-roll bar bush's were new Lemforder numbers, bought for buttons.
So this method of getting the strut into the hub carrier isn't the one in the workshop manual... And with good reason! Spring compressors are bad enough at the best of times.
On a side note, rebuilding all the gubbins associated with the brake fluid reservoir with the inlet manifold removed is much easier.
Console / Subframe alignment is interesting. The new wishbone was pushing against it so there was a bit of resistance to getting it back to where it belonged. The mark of the dirt gave me the perfect re-alignement marks!
Also, another thought, what the hell did we do to see all the hard to see corners before smartphones?! My phone has been brilliant for working on this, seeing round corners which wouldn't normally be seen around!
Leave the death pipe where it is. I nearly said last week that looks like a data stamp on the side of the pipe and going back to it now and jacking up the magificication I can read the date stamp as 2/15, so it looks like fitting was later 2015 or 2016. Replacing the pipe will mean removing the thermostat housing, albeit only a minor expense on the gasket, but the the big worry is the housing is plastic and fragile with age, often reported fracturing on removal and costs over £100.
I will have another go to see if the wire to the knock sensor goes behind the pipe.
I will buy your new redundant pipe.
Andy
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B4Andra
Member
If your interested I'll send it on, but it was only a tenner... It will however, be coming without the retaining clip because it looks like that's missing from this pipe!
I have a clip, if I am not mistaken you can see mine in the last image I posted above. It has been said before the clip is redundant as the pipe is buffered at each end by the thermostat housing and coolant pump and can be awkward to insert - the pipe has to be FULLY (lots of coolant lubrication) inserted at each end for the clip to engage.
Send a PM tomorrow about the pipe.
Andy
I assume you have read this excellent 'How To'
https://www.a2oc.net/community/inde...ir-heli-coil-thread-repair.34440/#post-299882
Andy
B4Andra
Member
I hadn't read that specific post, but I did immediately look up "Polo's" and how to fix it, that's why I ended up buying an insert kit. The alternatives weren't appealing...
1 - replace the hub (what a pain in the ass, not to mention pricy and time consuming)
2 - shove in an over-sized calliper bolt.... https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP6751539 appeals because it's not got a middle material which could affect the expansion and contraction and affect how it behaves under high temperature.
But the insert kit looks absolutely solid...... but again, there's 3 different materials interfacing under high heat.
ajsellors
A2OC Donor
The small sensor bolted to the back of the engine is the Knock sensor. It monitors the combustion by detecting vibrations in the engine block so its just bolted in the middle.
B4Andra
Member
It's just that the cable to connect to it is about 2" too short!
