I know this is an old thread, but I found it when I was looking for info on how to remove the front door locks, and found the bit about only removing the bottom two bolts on the window frame very helpful. Both of my front doors failed to register as opened and the prime candidate appeared to be the main microswitch.
Anyway, having primed myself with lots of videos on removing various parts of the door, I got the door stripped down to the window frame without too much difficulty, then realised I didn't have the right Torx bit to remove the frame. Undeterred, I decided to remove the door lock anyway and see what I could do to get it out afterwards. Here's what I found, hopefully it'll help anyone else giving this a go:
For the front doors there is a bar running from the door handle to the lock mechanism, and it's held in place by a plastic quick release grip lock as shown below:
View attachment 100500
The inner part of the grip lock is threaded and holds onto the threaded end of the bar. The outer cylinder of the grip lock slides up and down over the inner, preventing the bar from popping out. It also tightens the grip on the bar as it is slid up into its locked position.
To release the bar, reach in behind the widow Frame with your hand and pull the outer plastic part down until it looks like this:
View attachment 100501
Once the bar from the handle has been released, and the two M8 spline bolts that hold the lock onto the door frame have been removed, then the complete door lock mechanism is free to move in the gap between the window frame and the door. What I found was that I could move and manipulate the lock enough to present the clip that holds the microswitch in place through the gap (sorry, no picture). I was able to release the clip that holds the microswitch and then bring it out to strip and test (the rubber skirt on the plunger had dozed so I was expecting it to be in need of a clean inside). Sure enough, it wasn't registering contact and a quick clean sorted it out. It was then a simple matter of replacing the microswitch (this is so much easier if the lock is in the locked position) and the clip.
Unfortunately, on testing again it the door was still not registering as opened. A quick check of the microswitch showed that the actuator on the door wasn't making enough contact with the switch - possibly the switch plunger had worn away.
A cleverer man would probably have given up at this point, but I noticed I had access to both the Torx screws, and the clips that hold the halves of the lock together - you can see one at the bottom of the picture below. The other is smaller and on the other edge and end of the lock (no picture again).
View attachment 100502
I was then able to dismantle the lock in situ and remove it without any difficulty and take it away to fix it properly.
As a temporary measure, I fashioned a small plastic flap from a food carton, it's held in place by the same clip that holds the microswitch, and sits over the microswitch plunger (again no picture). This fixed the problem with the gap between the actuator and the switch, so I gave refitting a try. Again it was really very easy to rebuild the lock inside the door, the clips and Torx screws are easily accessed and there is plenty of space to move the lock around. Getting the metal bar from the door handle in place was a little awkward, but not too difficult.
A quick test showed that the lock was now working and it will do until the replacement microswitches arrive. I'll leave the passenger door until then as well.