I bought an A2 1.6 FSI

That is definitely sufficiently clean. I'm not sure what you are referring to when you say they are bent? They look to be the correct shape to me.
In the olden days, polishing manifolds was de rigeur, to achieve smooth air flow, (I spent hours of my youth on motor bike manifolds with Solvol Autosol). Nowadays, the theory is that the original cast finish promotes a boundary layer, that helps flow more than a polished surface.
Either way your manifold is fine. The potential problem is build up of "crud" in the area that the flaps move through, that stop the full arc of flap movement
Mac.
 
@Gorevolution @A2Steve

I realise the flaps by design are all folded/bent on the block edge. Looking at it again I don't quite know hat I was imagining, ignore my comment about bent.

Your manifold is clean enough and as mac said it is build up of carbon on the sidewall of the flap aperture that interferes/seizes with the flaps and yours are clean.

Andy
 
Yes the original part is manufactured by Pierburg and has lasted best part of 20 years so I went with the same. Actual part number you require is shown on the photos below, taken when i replaced mine a few weeks ago.
(Photo of old part and new part) 👍
Hello, this morning I tested with my father to see if the vacuum actuator activates when I turn the key, but it actually didn't move 1 mm. Can you confirm that the culprit of this malfunction is the solenoid? thank you
 
Hello, this morning I tested with my father to see if the vacuum actuator activates when I turn the key, but it actually didn't move 1 mm. Can you confirm that the culprit of this malfunction is the solenoid? thank you
Did you check if the actuator moves when you suck on the tube? If it moves, the actuator is fine. Probably the solenoid, as long as you have vacuum, of course.
Mac.
 
Hello, this morning I tested with my father to see if the vacuum actuator activates when I turn the key, but it actually didn't move 1 mm. Can you confirm that the culprit of this malfunction is the solenoid? thank you
Hi, I don't confess to being an FSI expert in any way as I have only owned the one which I bought to attempt to fix and to avoid it potentially becoming Coke cans, where as I have owned countless TDI's that I obviously know more about.

I also only like to give advice that I know to be correct but from personal experience I believe the Pierburg Solenoid could well be the culprit here (as it was with mine) but couldn't guarantee it and would suggest it being verified by a diagnostic scan pointing to the Solenoid Valve being at fault, as it did mine.

There are members with far more FSI expertise than me who will be able to advise more but they do seem to be one of those parts that go bad around the age they now are and if yours is original it certainly wouldn't be a bad investment replacing it any way but i would recommend sticking to the original Pierburg branded part that I posted above as it's proven to last a long time, rather than a cheaper unknown variant that might not.

All the best and I hope you resolve your problem 👍
 
The same N316 is used on later models in the Audi range, and there is a tech bulletin that says it can, (does), suffer from corrosion.
The bulletin describes a later version of the N316, P/N 06H 906 283 B, which is fitted with a fresh air vent, to prevent corrosion. I'm guessing that moisture in the vac system causes the valve to corrode.
I've attached the bulletin, I'd say it applies to our FSIs too.
Mac.
Screenshot 2023-01-18 12.21.43.png
 

Attachments

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I wrote a brief description of how to fit the N316 valve a couple of years ago if you need it.


Andy
 
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The original N316, part number 037906283D was made by Pierburg, is still available from Audi or the same on ebay far cheaper.


Parts In Motion are a respected seller and ship to Italy but may be cheaper and quicker delivery local.

Andy
 
I come back here! my usual mechanic refused to do the job, even the VW Service didn't want to do it, boasting that not being Audi they can't access via diagnosis to do the alignment, and not even the Bosch car service wanted to do it. Luckily I found a willing independent mechanic who did the job. after he mounted it, however, he told me that the flaps are blocked, even though they were functional before. do you have any idea why?
 
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Good Evening,

I have rather lost the plot of this thread please help me by answering these questions.

1. The independent mechanic did what job exactly?
2. What alignment did Audi refuse to do?
3. How does the mechanic know the flaps are not moving?
4. Has a new N316 has been fitted?

Thanks.

Andy
 
Good Evening,

I have rather lost the plot of this thread please help me by answering these questions.

1. The independent mechanic did what job exactly?
2. What alignment did Audi refuse to do?
3. How does the mechanic know the flaps are not moving?
4. Has a new N316 has been fitted?

Thanks.

Andy
1. replace the lower manifold
2. not Audi, but VW refused to do the manifold replacement because they couldn't do thealignement (I have now corrected my previous post)
3. honestly I don't know 🤔 I will investigate
4. Yes
 
At the most basic level, with a piece of tube attached to the vacuum actuator, and a pair of lungs, (human), the action of the flap mechanism is easily, and very cheaply checked.
Mac.
 
1. replace the lower manifold
2. not Audi, but VW refused to do the manifold replacement because they couldn't do thealignement (I have now corrected my previous post)
3. honestly I don't know 🤔 I will investigate
4. Yes
Thank you for replying I am getting the gist of this thread now.

When you are investigating the answer to (3.)
5. ask the mechanic if the flaps were pinned up prior to reassembly of the manifold.
6. ask if a VCDS scan was performed after it was noticed the flaps were not working, if so what were any fault codes, or even better if the results can be uploaded and posted.

7. With the engine running is the dash EML illuminated?

Andy
 
The mechanic just called me to give me some bad news. according to him the engine goes to three (the diagnosis reports missfire in cylinder 3) and it would be the fault of the cracked head, because the spark plug gets wet and liquid constantly comes out of the exhaust. actually when I park in the garage, the trail of liquid from the exhaust is quite evident. estimate for the repair of the head 2000/2500 €, while replacing the engine I would spend 800 € of labor + the cost of the used engine. 😭
 
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