New selector tower/cables, Woes!

DJ 190

A2OC Donor
This is regarding my earlier thread, here https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/new-vag-tower-shifter-help-required.41276/ This is the current position :
With the cables in place it was possible to select certain gears. I could get reverse and engage 2nd gear, so I could go forwards and backwards. The gear change action was VERY stiff, but all 6 gear positions were obtainable. Reverse gear didn't require the safety action of pushing down on the gear knob in order to go into reverse. It had no effect and reverse was readily obtainable. The next step was to determine why the gear change action was so stiff and obstructive. I therefore disconnected the two cables from the new selector tower. All gear positions could be obtained manually on the tower. A little resistance, but reasonably easily. The action of the gear changer in the car was easy and smooth. So the problem would appear to originate from the cables? During all this testing, both cables came out of the Bowden adjusters and I'm not sure how they are re-fitted? Do you simply re-insert the nipple into the Bowden adjuster? If so, then how is it retained?
This is what I'd like help/advice with .....
Why is reverse gear able to be selected without having to push down on the gear-knob?
Has any member had problems with the gear cables and could it be severe corrosion/dirt that is causing difficulty in selecting the gears? (However, those same cables were used for the original tower and gears WERE able to be selected, then?)
How are the cables removed? What needs to be removed internally from the car and Is it difficult?
Does anyone have a pair of cables in good condition that I could purchase?
Is there any other help or advice that will help me move forward with this?

David
 
David - I'm a long long way from being an expert, but this sounds like something going awry directly underneath the gearstick.

I've got a vague recollection that the reverse gear detent is located under there - from the dieselgeek youtube video series - it is when you push down on the lever against a vertical spring load pushing upwards that you disengage a vertical hook in the gubbins under the gear lever that prevents the gearlever from moving across into the reverse plane unless it is low enough to avoid latching with a bar that locks this out. By the sound of things, this is no longer the case. Does the lever bob up and down with an obvious spring load underneath it?

As dieselgeek's main raison d'être is to sell repair kits for the mechanism under the gearlever and short shifters at the other end of the cables, they do have videos covering all of these areas, so that might be a good starting point to compare and contrast with what you find if you lift the gaiter up and have a look underneath.

very best of luck - I hope someone more knowledgeable will be along soon. Robin
 
The selector cables fatigue and fray and eventually break. If you have fitted a new tower and you can shift manually, hands on the cable mounting casting with the cables detached, then you are looking at cables and less likely the mechanism under the gear stick.
The bad news is cables are NLA so you are looking for used if you need cables. This is a concern to us A2 owners, there is a thread about options.
 
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This is a large concern, the cable being deceased, and not easy to get made, i saw the thread trying to get someone to manufacture a suitbale cable. Imagine having to scrap a car becasue you could get cables to change the gears, ludicrous really. Imagine buying a car just to get a spare set of parts! Actually sounds sensible! Good luck sorting this issue out David. Next step try another cable second hand.
 
The selector cables fatigue and fray and eventually break. If you have fitted a new tower and you can shift manually, hands on the cable mounting casting with the cables detached, then you are looking at cables and less likely the mechanism under the gear stick.
The bad news is cables are NLA so you are looking for used if you need cables. This is a concern to us A2 owners, there is a thread about options.
Yes, I'm not excluding fraying of the cables as well - if something is catching on the bowden outers then it will resist movement and it could well be a combination of issues. It was just the lack of apparent detent for reverse that made me think of the area under the gear-lever. It will be interesting to hear how this progresses as I suspect many of us will encounter variations on this in the next few years as cars age.
 
If you look at this thread I have posted several pictures of the selector cables....

 
This is regarding my earlier thread, here https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/new-vag-tower-shifter-help-required.41276/ This is the current position :
With the cables in place it was possible to select certain gears. I could get reverse and engage 2nd gear, so I could go forwards and backwards. The gear change action was VERY stiff, but all 6 gear positions were obtainable. Reverse gear didn't require the safety action of pushing down on the gear knob in order to go into reverse. It had no effect and reverse was readily obtainable. The next step was to determine why the gear change action was so stiff and obstructive. I therefore disconnected the two cables from the new selector tower. All gear positions could be obtained manually on the tower. A little resistance, but reasonably easily. The action of the gear changer in the car was easy and smooth. So the problem would appear to originate from the cables? During all this testing, both cables came out of the Bowden adjusters and I'm not sure how they are re-fitted? Do you simply re-insert the nipple into the Bowden adjuster? If so, then how is it retained?
This is what I'd like help/advice with .....
Why is reverse gear able to be selected without having to push down on the gear-knob?
Has any member had problems with the gear cables and could it be severe corrosion/dirt that is causing difficulty in selecting the gears? (However, those same cables were used for the original tower and gears WERE able to be selected, then?)
How are the cables removed? What needs to be removed internally from the car and Is it difficult?
Does anyone have a pair of cables in good condition that I could purchase?
Is there any other help or advice that will help me move forward with this?

David

To rule out the gearbox mechanism, you stated above that whilst "All gear positions could be obtained manually on the tower.", could you confirm that you tested each gear to ensure that drive was indeed available, and not simply that the relevant position could be selected. This would rule out the mechanical side of the gearbox and allow the selector issues to be investigated further.
 
I've not been able to drive the car over distance to prove that all gears ARE selectable. However, when I'd tried to select first gear and it hadn't quite engaged, it was obvious when I'd looked at the top of the tower that it hadn't moved fully across. So with manual selection it is pretty obvious that all gears (including 6th) have been positively engaged. I am confident that that is the case.

David
 
WITH GREAT CARE raise the front of the car both sides and secure on axle stands. With the handbrake FIRMLY applied and both rear wheels chocked front and back, disconnect the cables from the selector tower and manually select each gear in turn. Start the engine and ensure the front wheels are being driven. Safer to turn off the engine then repeat this process for each of the 7 gears. If this proves to work it is safe to say both the selector tower and internal gear selection is working correctly.

Note the travel required on the tower to fully engage the gears then reconnect the cables to see where the range is not being achieved. Make sure the cables are correctly secured onto the bracket as per the manual.

It could be that your new selector tower is not perfect for the A2 and may need a different range of movement from the cables to fully engage the gears assuming the A2 cables can provide that range of movement.
 
Hi. It’s possible to incorrectly fit the piece with the splined hole onto the splined shaft (I see another member here commented on having done it). This would give a situation where selection by hand is possible but not by cable. Worth checking.
N
 
Hi. It’s possible to incorrectly fit the piece with the splined hole onto the splined shaft
On the contrary, it cannot be fitted incorrectly! The spline pattern has a "key" area which ensures that, unless aligned, it's impossible to fit the top section. It's as simple as that! Thanks anyway for your contribution.

David
 
It could be that your new selector tower is not perfect for the A2 and may need a different range of movement from the cables to fully engage the gears assuming the A2 cables can provide that range of movement.
The tower I've installed is the only part number now available for the A2. It's of a superior design and has been successfully installed by other A2OC members. However, that was into a 5-speed box, so what I'm attempting is a first, because mine is 6'speed. I'm confident that I've been able to select all gears manually. Each position felt "solid" and positive in location. That leaves the problem to be in the way the gear-change actions are transmitted to the tower. Gear lever movement is stiff and resistant. It's almost like there is friction or a kink in the cable. It really should be much easier than it is! I've read comment on this forum that fitting this revised tower has led to a transformation in the gear-change action with easy and positive changes. That's just what I'm hoping to achieve. "Hope springs eternal" That's the phrase! There are always alternatives to consider and I'm perfectly capable of going down any of these paths! Some examples are (1) Electrifying the A2 (2) Petrol engine and convert to LPG (3) Fit an MYP gearbox (I do have one of those in my garage)
I don't HAVE to do anything, though .... Life's good and I'm just drifting along. Oh well, let's see what happens here?

David
 
The tower I've installed is the only part number now available for the A2. It's of a superior design and has been successfully installed by other A2OC members. However, that was into a 5-speed box, so what I'm attempting is a first, because mine is 6'speed. I'm confident that I've been able to select all gears manually. Each position felt "solid" and positive in location. That leaves the problem to be in the way the gear-change actions are transmitted to the tower. Gear lever movement is stiff and resistant. It's almost like there is friction or a kink in the cable. It really should be much easier than it is! I've read comment on this forum that fitting this revised tower has led to a transformation in the gear-change action with easy and positive changes. That's just what I'm hoping to achieve. "Hope springs eternal" That's the phrase! There are always alternatives to consider and I'm perfectly capable of going down any of these paths! Some examples are (1) Electrifying the A2 (2) Petrol engine and convert to LPG (3) Fit an MYP gearbox (I do have one of those in my garage)
I don't HAVE to do anything, though .... Life's good and I'm just drifting along. Oh well, let's see what happens here?

David
What does the movement of the gear lever in the car feel like with the cables disconnected from the tower I wonder? I’d expect you could feel the effects of worn frayed cables.
 
On the contrary, it cannot be fitted incorrectly! The spline pattern has a "key" area which ensures that, unless aligned, it's impossible to fit the top section. It's as simple as that! Thanks anyway for your contribution.

David
 
What does the movement of the gear lever in the car feel like with the cables disconnected from the tower I wonder? I’d expect you could feel the effects of worn frayed cables.
Before the cables had become fully disconnected from the Bowden connectors and were just slackened, I had noticed some roughness/ graunching between 5th to 6th gear. Otherwise it was easy to move. With the cables fully disconnected it's fine

David
 
In post#7 of that thread, he mentions the fatter location spline and that's what I was referring too. It is there for a reason and I couldn't locate the top section unless it was aligned correctly.

David
 
Not questioning if the spline has aligned - you obviously have. BUT is the master spline in the same position on the old tower shaft and the replacement tower shaft? Mistakes do get made during manufacture....
 
is the master spline in the same position on the old tower shaft and the replacement tower shaft? .
I took a photo of the original selector tower before removal. The new tower IS exactly in the same position, including the top section. I've thought that as an interim step, I COULD have connected the cables to the tower BEFORE inserting it to the gearbox. I could then have had someone shifting through the gears and I could have observed the corresponding movement in tower gear positions. I could still do this .... it's only held in place with two bolts ....... However, because I found that I could manually select all the gears and there was free movement to the disconnected gear lever, it could only be a fault with the cables .....

David
 
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